The cost does seem high, but if you break it down to the standard shop rate of $100/hour, then maybe not so much. Plus, shops all base their individual costs on what BRP says it takes for time, not their own estimates. Unless, you are going to an independent shop, then they can wing it. All manufacturers when estimating time for jobs, include a substantial cushion, ie: profit for the dealer. That really is an industry standard for all cars, motorcycles, ATV, etc.
So, if you consider removal of the rear body work and seat, removal of the brakes from all 3 wheels to inspect before bleeding, and then adjusting the parking brake when done, reassembly and test ride, plus fixing a minor and unforeseen issue; then maybe the time estimate is not too far off.
Another thing to consider on this topic, and is the first tip I got from SL that was EXTREMELY useful. That was to replace the rubber cap liner on the master cylinder with one from an auto parts store (from a Dodge, IIRC). That was because the OEM cap liner had a very large hole in the top to allow air to enter and escape as part of the normal operation of the system. That hole, actually a slit, was too big and it allowed fluid to leak out and maybe more importantly in the long run, it allows too much air and moisture into the system. Brake fluid does absorb a tremendous amount of air, water, and dust, so by doing this yourself, you can save yourself a lot of grief. :firstplace:
