Brake line routing for ISCI hand brake

[jgwoods]

I am installing the ISCI hand brake kit on my 2014 RT Ltd with triaxial accessory handlebars. I am curious to find the best way to route the brake line as it comes up by the bars. If you have done this I would love to hear about your solution.

I'm considering drill a hole un the plastic plate that moves with the bars and putting a split grommet in the hole but I am concerned about wear and chaffing if the brake line is moving around a lot as I steer.

any suggestions or pictures will help,
many thanks
Joe

 

[cuznjohn]

once you get the kit, it comes with a bottom cover for the right side handlebar. it is cut and dry how it is routed and just a little bit of a pain to get the 4 small screws out to take the plastic piece off. cover around the center of the bars so that the screws if dropped don't go into the open space of no return

 

[jgwoods]

once you get the kit, it comes with a bottom cover for the right side handlebar. it is cut and dry how it is routed and just a little bit of a pain to get the 4 small screws out to take the plastic piece off. cover around the center of the bars so that the screws if dropped don't go into the open space of no return

It's the transition up through the body work I am trying to figure out. I got the plastic cover off the bars and the new one modified for the Triaxial bars, that's not the problem. It's where to bring the brake line up to the base of the bars.

 

[jgwoods]

Done!- well except the road test.

OK so I got the ISCI handbrake kit installed on my 2014 RT Ltd with Triaxial bars.
The instructions that come with the kit are for a 2010 model so a lot of the photos don't match up very well- but they do give the idea.

Some notes:
The little tiny allen bolts that hold the plastic trim under the bars are 3mm allen hex
The slave cylinder bleeder is a 1/4" - I used a box wrench and it has a check valve bleeder so you can just open it and pump.

I (hope I) managed to get all the air out bleeding it in 3 steps- first crack open the banjo bolt (12mm wrench) right at the master cylinder and pump it a few times- lots of bubbles will come out and it will start the flow down the brake line. Tighten the banjo bolt.
Open the banjo bolt at the slave cylinder and in a few seconds the brake fluid will flow down from the master cylinder and start coming out. Tighten that banjo bolt and open the slave cylinder bleeder. Run 3-4 reservoirs full of fluid through the bleeder and close it.
Worked for me.

The exhaust clamp is a 13mm bolt
The exhaust hanger is a 14mm bolt with a washer on each side of the rubber isolator.

I replaced the foot brake pedal with the ISCI extended one, it has two 10mm bolts under easily reached with a deep socket.

Just about everything is metric but the flat countersink bolt that holds the master cylinder on is a 7/64" hex. Otherwise you need metric allens from 3-6 mm and of course the #30 torx to take off the body panels.

Next up for me is to put the body panels back on and go for a road test.

And as for routing the brake line there is a gap right near where the bars go down and you can wiggle the line up through there.