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Brake fluid corrosion...

Yazz

Yazz

MOgang Member
Hi y'all, Son has been down to see us today and we decided to go spelunking under Spydee's tupperware. Came across some leakage and corrosion by the brake reservoir...

picture.php


We pulled aside the reservoir to see what was going on behind it. Not a pretty sight.

picture.php


Wanting to see where the spills were coming from, discovered on both caps a cut notch in the rubber gasket for the cap and the brake fluid cap is vented via detent towards the spine of Spydee. Maybe this is a manufactured pressure relief vent?

picture.php


Wondering if anybody else has corrosion by the brake reservoir?
 
This can develop into rust if left alone. I have seen my fair share of rust under various situations and conditions. And Brake fluid can and will create a rust bed on that frame if left unattended, and fast.

May I suggest that you get these pics to your dealer and get Can Am to make this right. Or at the very least if Can Am says this is a maintenance issue and not there fault, go to a shop that can use something like POR-15 to clean and seal up your frame to prevent any weekending of your frame?

There are a few Rust proof items over the counter, but not knowing your comfort level and such I hate to suggest it without knowing. :spyder2:
 
Yazz said:
Wanting to see where the spills were coming from, discovered on both caps a cut notch in the rubber gasket for the cap and the brake fluid cap is vented via detent towards the spine of Spydee. Maybe this is a manufactured pressure relief vent?
Click to expand...

Is this what you are talking about?


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18761&highlight=brake+reservoir

You say pointing toward the spine. From the above post, it would seem that they should be pointing toward the back of the spyder.
 
Yes, the original brake res caps were causing a problem, the newer caps simply have a "V" or "L" slit to them. I have found fluid around my brake res and a trail from frame to conduit and harness to swing arm. This and foaming happens occasionally on motorcycles too, foam or sweat cuffs are wrapped around the brake res to dampen the vibes and catch any fluid. I have tightly folded paper shop towels and wrapped those around the caps. You can secure it wire safety wire or a rubber band. I change it occasionally or when I wash the machine.
 
Reminds of this video on youtube where the guy points out some flaws in the Spyder design. He mentions the break fluid issue...
1:30 into the video ... enjoy :P

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDN7UnKqKZU[/ame]
 
That 'guy' in the video is Marcel --- snake oil salesman of spyder stuff. He seems to think he's a better engineer than BRP on many things----:barf:

-----------------------

On the caps, the original ones without the 'V' cut in them were causing a problem with the low fluid sensors. With the system 'closed' it was pulling rubber down into the reservoir and hitting the sensor-- thus making it look like the fluid was low.

So they slit the new caps.

I do believe there were other issues with leaking of caps that were not related to the 'V'.

Something to keep an eye on for sure!
 
GaryTheBadger said:
About a year ago, I had my leaking brake caps replaced by the local BRP dealer at no cost. Somewhere on this site is probably the service bulletin about it. Still looking....
Also see this year-old thread: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13108&highlight=leaking+brake
Click to expand...

Glad to know this isn't something new. Wish I would have found the leak earlier...

Have found a good Dealer and will talk to him about the leaking caps. Hopefully they will fix the corrosion too.
 
IWN2RYD said:
This can develop into rust if left alone. I have seen my fair share of rust under various situations and conditions. And Brake fluid can and will create a rust bed on that frame if left unattended, and fast.

May I suggest that you get these pics to your dealer and get Can Am to make this right. Or at the very least if Can Am says this is a maintenance issue and not there fault, go to a shop that can use something like POR-15 to clean and seal up your frame to prevent any weekending of your frame?

There are a few Rust proof items over the counter, but not knowing your comfort level and such I hate to suggest it without knowing. :spyder2:
Click to expand...

Going to try my Dealer first. At least get new caps.

Know an 'Old School' shop that works on two-wheelies. Good people. They don't work on Spyders but I bet he would take care of the corrosion. (I take the part in and they work on it.)

The most corrosion control I do now-a-days is sand paper and clear fingernail polish on rock strikes. Used to do sand paper, primer and two-part paint.
 
AMTJIM said:
Yes, the original brake res caps were causing a problem, the newer caps simply have a "V" or "L" slit to them. I have found fluid around my brake res and a trail from frame to conduit and harness to swing arm. This and foaming happens occasionally on motorcycles too, foam or sweat cuffs are wrapped around the brake res to dampen the vibes and catch any fluid. I have tightly folded paper shop towels and wrapped those around the caps. You can secure it wire safety wire or a rubber band. I change it occasionally or when I wash the machine.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. We found the "V" slit in the gasket and thought it was a flaw until we found out both gaskets had one. That got us thinking pressure relief.

Think I'll use safety wire instead of a rubber band to hold a paper towel around the caps to catch the slop. Look what the brake fluid did to my paint job.:gaah:
 
Firefly said:
That 'guy' in the video is Marcel --- snake oil salesman of spyder stuff. He seems to think he's a better engineer than BRP on many things----:barf:

-----------------------

On the caps, the original ones without the 'V' cut in them were causing a problem with the low fluid sensors. With the system 'closed' it was pulling rubber down into the reservoir and hitting the sensor-- thus making it look like the fluid was low.

So they slit the new caps.

I do believe there were other issues with leaking of caps that were not related to the 'V'.

Something to keep an eye on for sure!
Click to expand...

I've heard alot about Marcel on this board and others. Somehow the accent and the name never made the connection in my mush-bucket.

Tomorrow we are going to put the caps facing rearwards, hot up the engine and romp on the brakes. Going to see if there are any leaks that way. If no leaks, will put paper towels around the caps and check again in 200 miles.

Want to have every thing fixed, corrosion and caps, before the ryding season hits in the spring.:D
 
AMTJIM said:
Yes, the original brake res caps were causing a problem, the newer caps simply have a "V" or "L" slit to them. I have found fluid around my brake res and a trail from frame to conduit and harness to swing arm. This and foaming happens occasionally on motorcycles too, foam or sweat cuffs are wrapped around the brake res to dampen the vibes and catch any fluid. I have tightly folded paper shop towels and wrapped those around the caps. You can secure it wire safety wire or a rubber band. I change it occasionally or when I wash the machine.
Click to expand...

:thumbup:



Yazz said:
I've heard alot about Marcel on this board and others. Somehow the accent and the name never made the connection in my mush-bucket.

Tomorrow we are going to put the caps facing rearwards, hot up the engine and romp on the brakes. Going to see if there are any leaks that way. If no leaks, will put paper towels around the caps and check again in 200 miles.

Want to have every thing fixed, corrosion and caps, before the ryding season hits in the spring.:D
Click to expand...
Hi. Hope the corrosion is not a bad issue and can be taken care of with minimal fuss with your connection at that shop you mentioned.

Hi Joy.
:thumbup: Just completely clean the caps all over and under the rubber sections also - clean 'em out and make sure they are dry before re-installation with the "V" in the caps to the rear as much as possible WHILE the caps completed on and tightened down.

Before you test maybe want to be sure the fluid level is Not Above the MAX line at all either. Maybe too much fluid could leak out of the "V" cuts. I know the brake sensors are sensitive, but if you are above the MAX line on either res., maybe want to suction some out and be sure it is in spec by the book.

Wrapping the stoppers and putting some shop/paper towels in the area would be helpful in indicating fluid leaking since it easily shows wet spots.


Other then that, I think you're all set!
Good luck on you test ryde and please let us know how you make out!
Cheers
Dean
 
I would caution you about wrapping something around there to absorb any spilled brake fluid. The brake fluid that drips is corrosive enough, but a wet rag full of the stuff eats off a much larger area, and stays in contact far longer, increasing the corrosion damage. This has happened to some folks, but is not a widespread issue. I would have it repaired, fix the corrosion, and keep an eye on it...rather than using a diaper.
 
groundeffect said:
:thumbup:
Hi. Hope the corrosion is not a bad issue and can be taken care of with minimal fuss with your connection at that shop you mentioned.

Hi Joy.
:thumbup: Just completely clean the caps all over and under the rubber sections also - clean 'em out and make sure they are dry before re-installation with the "V" in the caps to the rear as much as possible WHILE the caps completed on and tightened down.

Before you test maybe want to be sure the fluid level is Not Above the MAX line at all either. Maybe too much fluid could leak out of the "V" cuts. I know the brake sensors are sensitive, but if you are above the MAX line on either res., maybe want to suction some out and be sure it is in spec by the book.

Wrapping the stoppers and putting some shop/paper towels in the area would be helpful in indicating fluid leaking since it easily shows wet spots.


Other then that, I think you're all set!
Good luck on you test ryde and please let us know how you make out!
Cheers
Dean
Click to expand...

The corrosion isn't too bad right now. Paint is bubbled behind the reservoir with a few spots of bare metal. The drips down the front of the res has left a small patch of rust on the metal. Not too deep, but something that has to be taken care of PDQ.

Checked the fluid level and its within specs. (Thanks for that. Sometimes the obvious is overlooked.) Figured out how to put the vents pointing to the rear of the res and put the V cuts to the rear also. Did the heat up the engine and romp on the brakes and nothing sloshed out. Yay!

Next step is to put some paper towels around the caps and find some speed bumps to run over a bunch of times. Think that will tell me if the caps are good to go.
 
NancysToy said:
I would caution you about wrapping something around there to absorb any spilled brake fluid. The brake fluid that drips is corrosive enough, but a wet rag full of the stuff eats off a much larger area, and stays in contact far longer, increasing the corrosion damage. This has happened to some folks, but is not a widespread issue. I would have it repaired, fix the corrosion, and keep an eye on it...rather than using a diaper.
Click to expand...

I hear you on no rags, but came to the same conclusion for a different reason.

Flam hazard. Paper towels soaked in brake fluid, with no air circulation, in a hot environment. Don't know what could happen and don't want to find out either.:shocked:

It makes perfect sense not to leave a rag full of a corrosive substance anywhere you don't want it to eat something away.

Going to put paper towels around the caps only for the shake-down to have positive proof of leak / no leak.

Next step is going to the Dealer.
 
Yazz said:
The corrosion isn't too bad right now. Paint is bubbled behind the reservoir with a few spots of bare metal. The drips down the front of the res has left a small patch of rust on the metal. Not too deep, but something that has to be taken care of PDQ.

Checked the fluid level and its within specs. (Thanks for that. Sometimes the obvious is overlooked.) Figured out how to put the vents pointing to the rear of the res and put the V cuts to the rear also. Did the heat up the engine and romp on the brakes and nothing sloshed out. Yay!

Next step is to put some paper towels around the caps and find some speed bumps to run over a bunch of times. Think that will tell me if the caps are good to go.
Click to expand...



Good luck on the bumps! :thumbup:
 
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