Brake Failure msg won't clear - anyone near Chicago have BUDS?

[ByronM]

I have a 2012 Rt that has a brake failure message that I can’t seem to clear using the key on hold the brake 30 seconds method. I have changed the brake fluid but I don’t have BUDS to flush the ABS module.

Does anyone in the Chicago area have one, preferably western suburbs that is willing to help? Willing to pay for the help.

Thanks

 

[Isopedella]

Has this message occurred before you did the fluid change?


Himm. If not I would

-if the brakes are in fact working-

take it for a trundle somewhere quiet.

ensure you are not being followed by another vehicle

Make sure you are straight and ready

and once up to speed hit the picks hard - I would do this several times.

Put that ABS module to work. Dont gently brake but slam it down and hold.

Once home check the fluid level and for any signs of a leak.

Bleed valves installed correctly?


If the brakes are not working I would not drive it anywhere.

 

[ByronM]

Brakes work fine. Had the issue before bleeding, I will try your hard braking method.
Little history on machine around 27,000 mi now, had this issue a couple of times in the past possibly caused by hitting the brakes while rolling back out of a parking spot without the engine running, always was able to clear the code before but this time no go so I added fluid which didn’t help so I bleed the brakes still no help. No leaks and pedal seems firm, I can’t hear the second click (never could before either) so maybe the pressure switch is bad but I would like to hook it up to BUDS to see if the software could point me in the right direction

 

[pegasus1300]

I also have a 2012. I have never heard that 2nd click and I have hit the brakes hard enough to almost put me thru the windshield. I just lived with it for about a year. Brakes worked fine. Then one day with nothing to do I added again a little more fluid and it went away:dontknow::dontknow: The Spyder Gods can be very fickle, I am just grateful they smiled my way on that one.

 

[Isopedella]

..... I can’t hear the second click

I newish here but have never heard of the 2nd click. Tried a search... got nothing. :dontknow:

Care to expand on that?

 

[ByronM]

I newish here but have never heard of the 2nd click. Tried a search... got nothing. :dontknow:

Care to expand on that?

The directions for clearing the brake failure message state with the key on after the system boots push the brake pedal hard enough until you hear the pressure switch click (first click brake lights, 2nd click will be brake pressure switch) and then turn off the key, then hold for 30 seconds.

 

[Bfromla]

Double check that the float's not stuck in the reservoir.

 

[Isopedella]

The directions for clearing the brake failure message state with the key on after the system boots push the brake pedal hard enough until you hear the pressure switch click (first click brake lights, 2nd click will be brake pressure switch) and then turn off the key, then hold for 30 seconds.

Thanks for that. :clap: :thumbup:

Putting that in my note book.

I will admit I have not yet read the Brake chapter in my book of words.

Apart from a routine brake preventative maintenance session of fluid level check, caliper clean up, and pad inspection, I have not gone there yet.

But I guess some light reading is on the horizon.
It's winter here in the South Pacific and a rain filled squally weekend with temps near freezing o/night.

 

[ARtraveler]

In many cases another teaspoon or tablespoon of fluid does the job. The warning sign message came on for me about once a year coming down Hatchers pass in AK. Never had a brake failure, just the warning.

 

[Isopedella]

I have a 2012 Rt that has a brake failure message that I can’t seem to clear using the key on hold the brake 30 seconds method. I have changed the brake fluid but I don’t have BUDS to flush the ABS module.

Does anyone in the Chicago area have one, preferably western suburbs that is willing to help? Willing to pay for the help.

Thanks

So.

Any luck with sorting this at all you wish to provide feedback on?

 

[ByronM]

Noticed the rear brake was getting thin so I replaced it, re-bled all three brakes again (did not bleed the abs either time) brake fluid is probably overfilled but it's below the rim of the reservoir. Has the C1282 code, no others.
Rode it around on some gravel and stood on the brakes a few times. Brakes still work and feel fine, brake failure message won’t clear using the following steps many times:

Brake Failure reset
Make sure the key has been turned off for more than 30 seconds. Turn on the ignition key. Wait for the screen to finish booting up. You may not need to push the Mode switch, but it won't hurt. Press the brake pedal hard enough to activate the low-pressure switch. HARD. If you have good hearing it will be the 2nd click. While holding the brake pedal down, turn the ignition key OFF and wait 30 seconds. Release the brake pedal. Then check if the code is cleared.

Any help is always appreciated.

 

[Grayfox]

My 2012 RT did the same. I replaced all the brakes and bled them, still didn't go out. Went to my dealer, hooked it up to BUDS, all good now. Cost $32.00 to get rid of it.

 

[ByronM]

My 2012 RT did the same. I replaced all the brakes and bled them, still didn't go out. Went to my dealer, hooked it up to BUDS, all good now. Cost $32.00 to get rid of it.

Mine went on for an unknown reason. It has come on several times in the past 5-6 years but would always clear with the above method. It was on before I bled the system a couple of days ago, but would not clear this time. Before bleeding, I tried adding a little fluid, which is why I was looking for someone with access to BUDS to see if there was a real issue; and also to do a total brake fluid flush including the ABS/VSS system without paying the dealer 3-4 hours labor for a 1-hour job. If I can’t get access to BUDS, I will probably pay a dealer to clear the code and see if it returns.

 

[Isopedella]

How are the front pads?

 

[Mikey]

Mine went on for an unknown reason. It has come on several times in the past 5-6 years but would always clear with the above method. It was on before I bled the system a couple of days ago, but would not clear this time. Before bleeding, I tried adding a little fluid, which is why I was looking for someone with access to BUDS to see if there was a real issue; and also to do a total brake fluid flush including the ABS/VSS system without paying the dealer 3-4 hours labor for a 1-hour job. If I can’t get access to BUDS, I will probably pay a dealer to clear the code and see if it returns.

Myself I would not worry about bleeding the abs or vss, what little fluid they hold don't matter in the big picture, but it is your call! If that code is throwing a orange screen on you, you should take it in and have it hooked up to Buds and see what's up. If the codes are in the memory, and they will not clear using the method you have, then it's your call just for a piece of mind get it in and get it to buds! I had the same issue with my bike that you have and the stomping on the peddle made it go away!:dontknow: Good luck

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Myself I would not worry about bleeding the abs or vss, what little fluid they hold don't matter in the big picture, but it is your call! If that code is throwing a orange screen on you, you should take it in and have it hooked up to Buds and see what's up. If the codes are in the memory, and they will not clear using the method you have, then it's your call just for a piece of mind get it in and get it to buds! I had the same issue with my bike that you have and the stomping on the peddle made it go away!:dontknow: Good luck

:agree: ... the amount of fluid in the " ABS " is very small ..... I've changed / flushed the Brale fluids a few times and never did a BUDS flush ... I'm happy with my Brake performance .... as Mikey said - your call .....Mike :thumbup:

 

[ByronM]

Update:
Rode about 200mi brake failure message still on, tried riding on some gravel roads while braking hard enough to activate the abs which seemed to function fine, no wheels locked up. Again tried several more times to clear the warning with no results.

Contacted Jim Potts my closest CamAn dealer to set up an appointment, service department couldn’t look at it until August 1 and quoted a price of $200 to clear the warning. If the warning came back I would have to schedule another appointment and pay $200 an hour for them to diagnose the actual problem and make repairs.

Thought about the possible cost to have a dealer work on my bike and decided I would just put the money towards my own copy of BUDS so I ordered one from Amazon for $700.

I will post my finding after I get the software which I should receive in several weeks.