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Blow the horn and get a check engine light??

Biosafena

Biosafena

New member
Over the winter I installed a Stebel horn on my 2014 RT Ltd. I installed it in the same area as the factory horn (which I removed) and used the factory horn wires as the trigger and ground for the horn relay. The main power and ground are supplied via dedicated lines directly to the battery. I tested it briefly following installation and all seemed to work well. Today I went for the first ride of the season and tried the horn while riding. It sounds great, but every time I hit the horn button, it kicks the cruise control off and gives you a check engine light for a few seconds. Anyone ever hear of anything like this or have any suggestions. It strikes me as an RFI type issue, but that is just a guess. I installed the same horn on my 2012 RT Ltd and it works fine with no issues, so I am not sure why this installation has an attitude.


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Sounds like Murphy

Murphy's Law....


Biosafena said:
Over the winter I installed a Stebel horn on my 2014 RT Ltd. I installed it in the same area as the factory horn (which I removed) and used the factory horn wires as the trigger and ground for the horn relay. The main power and ground are supplied via dedicated lines directly to the battery. I tested it briefly following installation and all seemed to work well. Today I went for the first ride of the season and tried the horn while riding. It sounds great, but every time I hit the horn button, it kicks the cruise control off and gives you a check engine light for a few seconds. Anyone ever hear of anything like this or have any suggestions. It strikes me as an RFI type issue, but that is just a guess. I installed the same horn on my 2012 RT Ltd and it works fine with no issues, so I am not sure why this installation has an attitude.


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Click to expand...
 
Little checking..!!

Looks like there is a mix up with the wiring. Check your horn fuse for the correct amperage and retrace the wire set up. I did not use the relay and have an RS. Take your time you'll find the problem...:thumbup:
 
Looked at several Stebel diagrams on line, and they were pretty consistent in the relay hookups. Just posting this for info., might help in your troubleshooting.

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MisterP said:
Looked at several Stebel diagrams on line, and they were pretty consistent in the relay hookups. Just posting this for info., might help in your troubleshooting.

attachment.php
Click to expand...

Yup. That is exactly the way I wired it. Wonder if it is just a crappy relay that might be generating some noise when the coil is energized and the contacts close. It is right next to one of the computers. I would have thought the computer would have been shielded a little better, but who knows. Think I will try swapping in a better quality relay before trying more drastic measures.


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Deer Slayer said:
Electrical noise. Use a bypass cap from hot horn lead to earth (ground). Electrical noise will fumble most computers. I had to fight it on welding robots.
Click to expand...

You're mind is thinking like mine. Why is it the simple things have be so darned complicated??


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Biosafena said:
Yup. That is exactly the way I wired it. Wonder if it is just a crappy relay that might be generating some noise when the coil is energized and the contacts close. It is right next to one of the computers. I would have thought the computer would have been shielded a little better, but who knows. Think I will try swapping in a better quality relay before trying more drastic measures.


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Click to expand...

Relay should have a diode across the coil to prevent inductive kick back into the electrical system.:cheers:
 
Curious..!!

From the diagram could you possibly have the original horn wires reversed..?? If they need to be positive negative you may have them hooked up wrong. I don't think the horn cares but the relay must...:dontknow:
 
Battery connections

Is your battery little low/or going bad, bad ground, loose/dirty battery connections, check the battery charging system, and is the horn using to much power?

Mike
 
Relay

I have a spare relay if you need it. Make sure your OEM wires are not crossed on the relay. PM me if you need it. Joe
 
Ok....I swapped out the relay with a new Signal Stat and the results are the same. Blow the horn and get a check engine light, cruise kicks off and the headlight shutters click into low beam mode. These symptoms only last for a couple seconds and then all returns to normal until you blow the horn again. Checked for active codes and it shows U0259 (loss of comms in canbus), but this too goes away when the symptoms stop. I removed the relay from the system and wired the Stebel horn directly to the factory horn wires and all works well...no check engine light, nothing! Anyone have any ideas on this one? Solid state relay??

Signed,
Confused in Ohio


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Some additional info: I removed the Stebel horn completely and left just the relay installed. This is triggered by the two factory horn wires. With only the trigger wires connected to the relay, I get the same symptoms when I press the horn button. My next idea was to extend the trigger wires to move the relay away from any computer components. I moved it about two feet and I still get the same symptoms. This is getting weird!


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I was an Electronic Technician in the Navy many decades ago. Most of the time everything made sense and when it didn't, it was usually something simple that I missed. But once in a while, as I traced a signal through a complex piece of radar or navigation equipment, very strange things would happen. The only explanation I could come up with is "the signal enters here - then magic happens - and the signal comes out here." I'm sure the circuitry inside the Spyder is far more "magical" than when I was chasing electrons.

If you figure it out, please let us know. I'm very curious.
 
Professor said:
I was an Electronic Technician in the Navy many decades ago. Most of the time everything made sense and when it didn't, it was usually something simple that I missed. But once in a while, as I traced a signal through a complex piece of radar or navigation equipment, very strange things would happen. The only explanation I could come up with is "the signal enters here - then magic happens - and the signal comes out here." I'm sure the circuitry inside the Spyder is far more "magical" than when I was chasing electrons.

If you figure it out, please let us know. I'm very curious.
Click to expand...

I agree that this doesn't make any sense. I have done my share of wiring having unfitted police cars and ambulances, but this is just stupid! It is 4 stinkin wires that apparently don't want to play nice with all the other conductors on this infernal machine! :(


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Deer Slayer said:
Relay should have a diode across the coil to prevent inductive kick back into the electrical system.:cheers:
Click to expand...


:agree::agree: You need a diode across the coil to prevent the collapsing field generating a voltage spike back into the cam-bus. That should fix all your problems.

MT
 
My only suggestion would be to megger or ohm meter the contact point on frame to make sure it's ZERO.
Then look to the other suggestions on the cap or diode.

AJ

Biosafena said:
Yup. That is exactly the way I wired it. Wonder if it is just a crappy relay that might be generating some noise when the coil is energized and the contacts close. It is right next to one of the computers. I would have thought the computer would have been shielded a little better, but who knows. Think I will try swapping in a better quality relay before trying more drastic measures.


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Click to expand...
 
Wouldn't that be a resistor across the coil? If my memory serves me, shouldn't it be somewhere around 650-700 Ohms to provide some suppression?
 
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