• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Best engine RPM for fuel mileage?

Ride Master

New member
driving in town usually in 4th gear, highways in 5th gear. What engine RPM produces the best fuel economy?


2012 RT Limited White


Elka Stage 5 Front Shocks, Elka Stage 4 plus Hyd Rear Shock, Corbin Seat with Back Rests, CB Com System, Entertainment Harness, Cell Phone Interface Kit, 3M Audio Player Integration Cable, Chrome Foot Peg Support Castings, Chrome Brake Pedal, Chrome Passenger Pegs, Seal Floor boards PUP DLX Chrome, SmoothSpyder Belt Tensioner, California Scientific Windshield, ISCI Accessory Mount kit with 2 Ram Balls, Ram Cup Holder on left Handlebar ram ball, GloRyders White, Custom Dynamics LED Front Mudflap replacement Kit, Custom Dynamics Amber Dual Brighsides, Custom Dynamics Red Dual Brightsides, Street Magic Genesis LED HMT Brake LIght, Street Magic Front Fender
 
Last edited:
Adding info about your Spyder in your signiture line helps us to help you

This is a tricky subject, cause if you have an SE5 equipped Spyder and continue shifting at too low of an RPM (sub 4000) you can burn up your centrifugal clutch, as has been reported by a few owners on here. I personally wouldn't recommend shifting under 4000 & the power band on the RT doesn't really come on til around 5000 RPMs. Preventing "jack rabbit" starts & smooth throttle roll on, along with reducing unneeded weight & keeping the shield lowered as much as possible for comfort to reduce drag are some other tips that will help increase fuel economy as well;)
 
This is a tricky subject, cause if you have an SE5 equipped Spyder and continue shifting at too low of an RPM (sub 4000) you can burn up your centrifugal clutch, as has been reported by a few owners on here. I personally wouldn't recommend shifting under 4000 & the power band on the RT doesn't really come on til around 5000 RPMs. Preventing "jack rabbit" starts & smooth throttle roll on, along with reducing unneeded weight & keeping the shield lowered as much as possible for comfort to reduce drag are some other tips that will help increase fuel economy as well;)

2012 RT Limited White

Elka Stage 5 Front Shocks, Elka Stage 4 plus Hyd Rear Shock, Corbin Seat with Back Rests, CB Com System, Entertainment Harness, Cell Phone Interface Kit, 3M Audio Player Integration Cable, Chrome Foot Peg Support Castings, Chrome Brake Pedal, Chrome Passenger Pegs, Seal Floor boards PUP DLX Chrome, SmoothSpyder Belt Tensioner, California Scientific Windshield, ISCI Accessory Mount kit with 2 Ram Balls, Ram Cup Holder on left Handlebar ram ball, GloRyders White, Custom Dynamics LED Front Mudflap replacement Kit, Custom Dynamics Amber Dual Brighsides, Custom Dynamics Red Dual Brightsides, Street Magic Genesis LED HMT Brake LIght, Street Magic Front Fender tips
 
:dontknow:
What I'd suggest is that you set up a test... :yikes:
Pick a highway nearby that will allow you to pick a destination about 60 miles away...
Pick a speed; let's say 60mph...
Ride to your destination and back:
Once in 5th,
Once in 4th,
Once in 3rd.
3 tanks of fuel should tell you what you need to know! :thumbup:
 
The testing begins

:dontknow:
What I'd suggest is that you set up a test... :yikes:
Pick a highway nearby that will allow you to pick a destination about 60 miles away...
Pick a speed; let's say 60mph...
Ride to your destination and back:
Once in 5th,
Once in 4th,
Once in 3rd.
3 tanks of fuel should tell you what you need to know! :thumbup:

So, when will you have this test completed Bobby?
 
My bike's in the shop...
36_19_5.gif
:gaah:
 
I'm finally getting the throttle position sensor issue fixed.
36_1_13.gif
Multiple error codes have been hampering the fun.
They're also gonna fix the IPod harness and change out my Spark Plug wires... :thumbup:
(I've been sitting on a set of BajaRon's best for too long...)
 
I don't have quick and easy access to a highway where I can just set the cruise and let the bike do its thing.
There'd be too many variables left in the mix to make any test done up here worthwhile...
 
Fuel mileage is more related to the speed you are traveling, how quick and far you turn the throttle, the local fuel supply and seasonal formulation, and the windshield position than the rpm. Given that, the lowest rpm, while remaining above about 4,000, the more likely you are to have better mileage. The differences are small, however. There is a far larger improvement riding 55 instead of 75, than by staying in a higher gear.
 
Did 70 miles today with my cruise set at 52 mph. Kept it in 4th gear right at 5000 rpm. Filled up. Only put in 1.8 gallons. For a personal best tank of 38.1 mpg
 
Similar experience to Arr: riding the Chickaloon Hills section of Glenn Highway--lots of up/downs and tight twisties--keeping it in 2nd or third gear--35 mph average--4000-4500 rpms--37 mpg.
 
anything over 5000 rpm's really starts sucking up the petrol....

on the hi-way, 5000 rpm's gives me 60 mph... at that speed, i'm get'n approx. 35 mpg...

at 6000 rpm's, i'm @ 70 mph, and get about 30 mpg...

015.jpg
 
anything over 5000 rpm's really starts sucking up the petrol....

on the hi-way, 5000 rpm's gives me 60 mph... at that speed, i'm get'n approx. 35 mpg...

at 6000 rpm's, i'm @ 70 mph, and get about 30 mpg...

View attachment 55034
It isn't the rpm, it's the wind resistance at speed. At 70 mph you use nearly twice the horsepower to overcome the wind resistance (drag) than you do at 50. If you ride 50 mph at 6000 rpm, you will get quite a bit better mileage than 6000 at 70 mph.
 
Last edited:
ok i have a custom duel two brothers exhaust, juice box pro, elkas shocks, falken rear tire, now i ride hard most of the time !!! now when i behave lol my best tank has on 3 diffent times ben 41& 42 & 44 now the 44 was some very slow low rpm riding but i up shift at 5 to 5500 and i down shift at 4000 keeping speed to 65 mph and staying below 6000 rpm on the reg i get around 33 to 38 mpg and when iam not behaving 28 to 30
 
Silly

It isn't the rpm, it's the wind resistance at speed. At 70 mph you use nearly twice the horsepower to overcome the wind resistance (drag) than you do at 50. If you ride 50 mph at 6000 rpm, you will get quite a bit better mileage than 6000 at 70 mph.


Silly, The question was about the best rpm for fuel economy.
 
It isn't the rpm, it's the wind resistance at speed. At 70 mph you use nearly twice the horsepower to overcome the wind resistance (drag) than you do at 50. If you ride 50 mph at 6000 rpm, you will get quite a bit better mileage than 6000 at 70 mph.

sorry, but you are incorrect... as was i... i was 500 rpm's too high in my statement...
think about what you said... 6000 rpm's @ 50 vs. 6000 @ 70... irregardless of wind resistance, it's a physical impossibility to turn the same rpm @ differing speeds (useless you are talking using a higher/lower gear)... look at it as 'gears' turning on each other... you can not spin one faster than the other... it's physics... wind resistance is a factor in the amount of energy, ie; fuel, used to over-come that force, but the rpm's required to propel your vehicle to a particular speed is a 'given'... all based on which gear you are in at that speed...
 
Sorry... I'm just be'n a smart*ss here, but Oranges & Tangarines my friend

ok i have a custom duel two brothers exhaust, juice box pro, elkas shocks, falken rear tire, now i ride hard most of the time !!! now when i behave lol my best tank has on 3 diffent times ben 41& 42 & 44 now the 44 was some very slow low rpm riding but i up shift at 5 to 5500 and i down shift at 4000 keeping speed to 65 mph and staying below 6000 rpm on the reg i get around 33 to 38 mpg and when iam not behaving 28 to 30


Hey spyderman526, its nice that you listed all of your mods here, but you left out the most important part of the equation, at least for helping the OP.

Not knowing any better and looking at your post, I'd be thinking why the hell is that guy getting in the 40s while I'm stuck only getting in the 20s to low 30s:shocked::dontknow:

But I know better, so I thought I'd help clue in maybe some newer members that wouldn't know, and let them know that you most probably have an RS Spyder and NOT an RT Spyder like the OP does. There's a big difference betweeen the 2:lecturef_smilie:

So it would be helpful for all, while listing your mods, to go ahead and tell us what model of Spyder those mods are on, and its also helpful to know if its an SE5 or Manual, and this info is going to be even more important on this forum as the New 2013 STs start having posts.IMHO
 
Back
Top