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Belt alignment

gerald37

Member
For people who are still having a problem keeping their belt aligned when they tighten the axle nut. This was not my thinking it came from IdahoMtnSpyder another member on the site. It worked for me. The only thing he was showing it, I think on a F3 with no bags which was easy to do. I cut a 2 X 4 for a wedge and drove it up under the wheel and frame. This is on a RT. Here are some pictures. I had the belt where I wanted but when I tighten the axle nut it would change. I drove the wedge in and tighten the nut then went for a ride. When I came back the belt was about 1/8” from the flange so I put wedge back not wedged very tie loosen the nut just a little and turned the adjustment screw out just very little and tap the wedge in and tighten the nut. Went for another ride and the belt was just off the flange. The wedge will keep the wheel pulled again the adjusting bolts. It cannot come back when you tied the axle nut.

Many on here may have seen this but for those that have not this will help. You may have to adjust it several times to get it right but when you tighten the axle nut it should not change.
 

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Should work well....

Once you have it all set as adjustment and tension that would hold it in place while you tighten the axle....:bowdown:
 
Once you have it all set as adjustment and tension that would hold it in place while you tighten the axle....:bowdown:

It seen to work for me. It is hard to get it right were you want it but when ever I tighten the axle nut it changes. Driving the wedge in holds the slide adjuster in place.
 
The problem is the axle adjusters are a one direction restraint only, i.e., the keep the axle from being pulled forward by belt tension. However, when you turn the nut on the right end of the axle to tighten it the friction of it rubbing against the swing arm above the axle will move the axle rearward. When the right end of the axle moves rearward that cocks the pulley so that the belt wants to move to the outside. The trick is to keep the right end of the axle from moving rearward. The adjuster doesn't do that.

In many cases, and maybe most, the friction of the nut against the swing arm is greater on the lower side than the upper side of the axle. In that case the nut will try to pull the axle forward. But it's held back by the adjuster so doesn't move and thus tightening the nut doesn't put the belt out of alignment.

What we really need are axle adjusters that positively lock the axle in both forward and rearward directions.

BTW, my wedge trick was on my RT. I jammed it in between the wheel and swing arm from below.
 
The problem is the axle adjusters are a one direction restraint only, i.e., the keep the axle from being pulled forward by belt tension. However, when you turn the nut on the right end of the axle to tighten it the friction of it rubbing against the swing arm above the axle will move the axle rearward. When the right end of the axle moves rearward that cocks the pulley so that the belt wants to move to the outside. The trick is to keep the right end of the axle from moving rearward. The adjuster doesn't do that.

In many cases, and maybe most, the friction of the nut against the swing arm is greater on the lower side than the upper side of the axle. In that case the nut will try to pull the axle forward. But it's held back by the adjuster so doesn't move and thus tightening the nut doesn't put the belt out of alignment.

What we really need are axle adjusters that positively lock the axle in both forward and rearward directions.

BTW, my wedge trick was on my RT. I jammed it in between the wheel and swing arm from below.
Thanks for the idea. I had seen your post on this and tried it and it worked. I agree the adjuster bolt needs to hold both ways.
 
After numerous attempts to get my tension at 120 Krikit- I adjusted to 100 Pounds and then when I tightened it ALL up (including Pushing the tire Forward) It ended up at 120 and the belt on the front sprocket was perfectly in the center of the sprocket which I hope will be gentile on the front sprocket rust problem.
 
AXEL ADJUSTER

The problem is the axle adjusters are a one direction restraint only, i.e., the keep the axle from being pulled forward by belt tension. However, when you turn the nut on the right end of the axle to tighten it the friction of it rubbing against the swing arm above the axle will move the axle rearward. When the right end of the axle moves rearward that cocks the pulley so that the belt wants to move to the outside. The trick is to keep the right end of the axle from moving rearward. The adjuster doesn't do that.

In many cases, and maybe most, the friction of the nut against the swing arm is greater on the lower side than the upper side of the axle. In that case the nut will try to pull the axle forward. But it's held back by the adjuster so doesn't move and thus tightening the nut doesn't put the belt out of alignment.

What we really need are axle adjusters that positively lock the axle in both forward and rearward directions.

BTW, my wedge trick was on my RT. I jammed it in between the wheel and swing arm from below.
. .The interesting thing is BRP knows exactly how to fix this issue ......... They already have this type of ADJUSTER on all their Snowmobiles ... ie. turn the bolt left it moves the adjuster IN,.... turn the adjuster right it moves it OUT maybe the engineers from each division don't communicate :dontknow: :banghead: ........ Mike :thumbup:
 
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