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Be careful removing those color panels.

RykerUSA

Member
When removing colored panels, take off the four push pins 1st then pull the lower front corner away from the bike to break it free from the dart clip holding that corner in place. If you attempt to pull it off from the top ( The area of the push pins), You will break the dart clips like I just did. See pictures. I am pointing to the location of the dart clip underneath the panel.

The clips are cheap to replace. Your shop will likely have no order them this early in production they are less than a dollar each.. Now, how do I get the old dart clip off? Do I just pry it off? I don't wanna break anything else.
 

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Here is the location of the dart clip.
 

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I had my left side off to run my glove insert wires and they went under the panel nice BUT putting those panels back on seems harder than the little video- Gotta get used to it I guess? Also I usually just push my F3 out of the garage before starting and the Ryker is Not easy to push around, probably because your turning a gear and Not really in neutral?
 
Does the color panel have a rubber insert that the point of the dart clip slips into? The front of my right color panel is firmly attached. On the left side I can see that the point of the dart clip goes into a hole in the panel substantially larger than the point and there is not firm connection. I forgot to ask my dealer about it when I was in for gear box inspection
 
... the Ryker is Not easy to push around, probably because your turning a gear and Not really in neutral?

Yes, that's apparently the case. I just picked my Ryker up from the dealer yesterday and it wouldn't drive... thought I had a faulty parking brake switch. I'll upload the video of my DOOFUS moment to YouTube shortly. Try this trick...

The shop places the Ryker into a "false-neutral" by pulling the forward/reverse lever to the middle position. They advised that it makes the bike easier to push around because you're not spinning the other driveline components (decoupled). I haven't tried pushing it around "out of gear", so that thought never occurred to me... I was just muscling it where I wanted to go.

If you leave it in false-neutral, the bike won't TELL you that it's not in "F" (indicator does, though), and the parking brake warning doesn't fire. The bike just goes into limp/dumb mode and short-rev's the motor if you try to move. So, there is an indicator issue, but the bike was smarter than I was. No free-revv'ing for you, buddy boy. ;-) (that would be cool, though, just to listen to the triple rev up).

--
QM
 
It looks like it's held on with two sided tape. If that is the case try soaking the tape side down with WD40 as you peel the clip body away. I find WD40 works better than goo-gone and it doesn't Hirt the finish.
 
Does the color panel have a rubber insert that the point of the dart clip slips into? The front of my right color panel is firmly attached. On the left side I can see that the point of the dart clip goes into a hole in the panel substantially larger than the point and there is not firm connection. I forgot to ask my dealer about it when I was in for gear box inspection

Well I pulled my color panel off to inspect the dart clip and sure enough it looks just like yours. Furthermore, the color panels were installed below the corrugated panel rather than above. See Sean Smokes video. I got that part fixed but it will be back to the dealer for a replacement clip. Must have been done on assembly.
 
Yes, that's apparently the case. I just picked my Ryker up from the dealer yesterday and it wouldn't drive... thought I had a faulty parking brake switch. I'll upload the video of my DOOFUS moment to YouTube shortly. Try this trick...

The shop places the Ryker into a "false-neutral" by pulling the forward/reverse lever to the middle position. They advised that it makes the bike easier to push around because you're not spinning the other driveline components (decoupled). I haven't tried pushing it around "out of gear", so that thought never occurred to me... I was just muscling it where I wanted to go.

If you leave it in false-neutral, the bike won't TELL you that it's not in "F" (indicator does, though), and the parking brake warning doesn't fire. The bike just goes into limp/dumb mode and short-rev's the motor if you try to move. So, there is an indicator issue, but the bike was smarter than I was. No free-revv'ing for you, buddy boy. ;-) (that would be cool, though, just to listen to the triple rev up).

--
QM

Good tip. I had wondered about that but wasn't brave enough to try it.
 
While we are on the subject of color panels, I removed my left one to run some Heat Controller wires through it (which I was able to snake thru). I absolutely destroyed the top part of the pins that fasten the panel to the bike. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pry them off but the plastic on those pins are soft. I was able to push them back in to secure the panel but they are all gnarly and smushed now. Not sure if I did something wrong, but the install docs don't really tell you how to remove them or what tools to use (as far as I could tell).
 
The colored panel should go in between OR under the plastic rim on top. If you try to put the panel over the top plastic you will never get your Push/ Pins in. Do you just push the bottom onto the pin / I got mine back on but don,t know how? Reminds me of the RT mirrors?
 
The colored panel should go in between OR under the plastic rim on top. If you try to put the panel over the top plastic you will never get your Push/ Pins in. Do you just push the bottom onto the pin / I got mine back on but don,t know how? Reminds me of the RT mirrors?

Yeah, the panels go in between the top plastic strip and the rest of that body section. I pushed the bottom part of the pin in and then pushed down the top part. Like I said, I think I might be doing it wrong. I wish there was a video example of exactly how to do this.
 
You do not pull out the push pins. You pry them out utilizing the extensive tool kit provided with your Ryker (aka Flat head screwdriver) :)
 
You do not pull out the push pins. You pry them out utilizing the extensive tool kit provided with your Ryker (aka Flat head screwdriver) :)

That's what I tried at first, but I made gouges into the plastic underneath. Looks like I need to invest into some replacement pins. :banghead:
 
Go to an auto parts store and buy a cheap set of upholstery plastic pry bars. You will be glad you did. :thumbup: cueman
 
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