Well it was not the clutch that is slipping, the drive shaft is stripped where it inters the belt pulley. So that means that the motor has to come out and basically be rebuilt with a new drive shaft, gaskets etc, etc, etc. I guess there is no way to explain why something like this can happen. After 30,000 miles you would hope that all major components would have proven to be OK. There is some signs of oil weeps on the outside of the motor. I have been using about 4oz per 1000 miles. At least it happened at home.
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Bad news slipping clutch
- Thread starter frenchbz
- Start date
jcthorne
Well-known member
While possible, this would be a very rare occurrence. In the vast majority of cases, its the splines on the pulley that fail and this is by design as the pulley material is MUCH softer than the output shaft. Have a good look at it before engine removal and tear down. Stripped out pulley splines are unfortunately pretty common.
Thanks for the advise. I'll do that this afternoon.
BajaRon
Well-known member
:agree: I think it virtually impossible that it would be the machine steel output shaft stripping as the pulley is made from comparatively very soft material. I think all you will need is the pulley. Much less expensive.
Good luck!
I took a photo of the pulley and shaft. When viewed larger it appeared the pulley was stripped. I have asked the shop to remove the pulley and call me to look at it.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Pretty sure you will find the output shaft is fine. However, if oil is leaking by the output shaft seal that definitely needs to be addressed.
Chupaca
New member
Curious
As to having any signs that this was happening till it would not move...when my holding bolt came loose I got some awful grinding noise from there when slow rolling or pushing the spyder around. Did find it soon on so the damage was minimal and could have just changed the bolt but went ahead and changed the pulley as well. Do hope it is only the pulley got all my parts from cheapcycleparts.com for under two hundred including the rear wheel bearings just in case....:thumbup:
As to having any signs that this was happening till it would not move...when my holding bolt came loose I got some awful grinding noise from there when slow rolling or pushing the spyder around. Did find it soon on so the damage was minimal and could have just changed the bolt but went ahead and changed the pulley as well. Do hope it is only the pulley got all my parts from cheapcycleparts.com for under two hundred including the rear wheel bearings just in case....:thumbup:
This was a common issue on the older models. I've had the bolt break in the output shaft, that required the whole shaft to be replaced. Luckily it was under warranty. The bolt came loose a couple of times since then, and I didn't notice it one time, that time the splines on the front drive out were stripped, and required the pulley being replaced. I did that myself. I've started using high heat resistant Loc-tite now, and have marked the washers to see if the bolt is coming loose to help it from happening again.
The shop attempted to remove the pulley to view the shaft but there is some damage under the pulley that only allows it to turn but not come off the shaft. The shop said they will cut the shaft after the assembly is removed from the bike. If you enlarge the attached photo you will see the pulley is ground down. The damage to the shaft is not visible.
Thanks for your comments and help. I may have the bike back late next week. Still time for fall foliage. If I can afford the gas.
Thanks for your comments and help. I may have the bike back late next week. Still time for fall foliage. If I can afford the gas.
Attachments
billybovine
Active member
Remove the damper from the pulley and then put a pulley puller on it. That should get it off. At least that way you can see if the shaft can be saved.
Chupaca
New member
As I see it....
if they pull out the six bolt the pulley will split the counter weight will come off then anchoring to the bolt holes with a standard puller they can press off the center of the shaft to remove the rest or all of the pulley....If it was spinning on the shaft there may be material stuck in the groves....:thumbup: shop needs a third world mechanic.....:roflblack:
if they pull out the six bolt the pulley will split the counter weight will come off then anchoring to the bolt holes with a standard puller they can press off the center of the shaft to remove the rest or all of the pulley....If it was spinning on the shaft there may be material stuck in the groves....:thumbup: shop needs a third world mechanic.....:roflblack:
It's fixed
Got the bike back. All new parts in the clutch and drive pulley area. While the bike was apart the shop adjusted the valves, put in new plugs, changed the oil, used all new gaskets and so the bike is "like new" again. I had a small oil leak that appears to be stopped. Total charge was over $3500.00. I have driven it about 1000 miles since the job was completed and all seems well. This shop likes to fill the oil over the "fill" line into the XXX area. Will that be a problem?
Thanks for all the comments.
I am thinking of having a belt tentionier installed. Any suggestions?
Got the bike back. All new parts in the clutch and drive pulley area. While the bike was apart the shop adjusted the valves, put in new plugs, changed the oil, used all new gaskets and so the bike is "like new" again. I had a small oil leak that appears to be stopped. Total charge was over $3500.00. I have driven it about 1000 miles since the job was completed and all seems well. This shop likes to fill the oil over the "fill" line into the XXX area. Will that be a problem?
Thanks for all the comments.
I am thinking of having a belt tentionier installed. Any suggestions?
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