Are these the correct Battery Replacements? What about charging NOCO?

[Dakotaz]

New 2023 RTL 500 miles and have the C1290 code. Put a trickle charger on battery and code goes away. I also noticed that when first started and the code was present the engine RPM was up to 1400. I read this is to charge up the low battery.
Understanding the batteries are junk from Can AM have a couple of questions about replacement. In the manual it states that you need 21apm hour battery. Did not see CCA need but have read on here it is 350.

YUASA YTX24HL-BS states 21 AH and 350 CCA. Is this the correct YUASA???

NOCO NLP20 is 7 AH and 600 CCA. Is this the correct NOCO? This would also need a different trickle charger.

Biggest concern is the 7 AH on the NOCO. Is this a concern going forward? Currently do not use heated gear, I do have a trailer, and then typical phone charging Carpuride etc.

Thoughts and personal experience appreciated.

Thanks

 

[racoon]

My 2024 Spyder RT S2S has the original battery.

I have added the connectors and plug it into a Battery Tender Jr when it's parked in my garage.
I use the same battery tender to maintain the battery on my John Deere Lawn Tractor.

I have looked at replacement batteries at the batteriesplus.com website, which is where I bought a replacement battery for the JD lawn tractor last year, after 7 years of use with the original battery.

Batteries Plus suggest 3 different batteries when I give it the details of my Spyder, although it only shows a 2021 model year. Since the '21s had the 1330 engine I assume the battery is/was similiar.

Duracell Ultra CYL10007 $160 - 330 CCA, 20 AH
Extreme CYLA24HLBSXTA $120 - 350 CCA, 21 AH
Odyssey HEPPC680 $200 - 170 CCA, 16 AH

All were described as an "AGM Powersport battery" and all had good customer ratings (4.8 or higher out of 5).
The Duracell and Odyssey both have 24 month free replacement warranties, the Extreme was only 12 months.

 

[Gwolf]

Original battery that was in my 2019 F3-S lasted about 3 years. I replaced the original with an equivalent AGM battery from NAPA and it has been in there for a couple of years now. I don't use any battery maintainer when it is parked in the shop. I ride it at least 2 or 3 times a week, being in Florida where we can usually ride 365 days a year. I do have a small trailer that has marker lights, turn, tail, and brake lights, but they are all very low draw LED on plug and play trailer connector which does not add any load to the original rear light circuit.

Never had a problem and about 3 to 4 years seems to be the average time a battery will last here. I don't let the battery completely go dead. When it begins to sound like it is dragging some on start up, I go ahead and replace the batterys, not just on the Spyder, but on all equipment and vehicles with electric start.

Not saying a battery maintainer is a bad thing, I do have some of them on mowers and other small engines. I just think that having the battery maintainer keeping the battery fully charged when the scooter is not ridden, might possibly hide the clues that your battery is getting weak, and could leave you somewhere that is not your home shop. Any place that is not your home shop is a bad place to be left. It causes you to call in some favors to get it back home, and probably leaves you oweing some favors too.

 

[JayBros]

The Yuasa YUAM7250H YTX24HL is a factory fill battery. The specs from my owner's manual say the recommended charging rate is 2Amp. The factory fill replacement Yuasa, number as above, came with a note that it also had a 2Amp charging rate. YMMV.

 

[Dakotaz]

Has anyone had any issues with the NOCO NLP 20 with only a 7 Amp Hour rating, as opposed to the owners manual stating that 21 Amp Hour battery is needed?

 

[Paddy4810]

Only thing is that if you are working on something with the key on, it goes dead sooner. Starts my bike unlike any other. Can't listen to the radio while you clean, etc.

 

[BajaRon]

I recommend getting the 'BS' version so that you get a fresh battery that you acid fill yourself. If you get a factory filled battery, you're getting a used battery. If it's slightly used, then no big deal. But it it has been sitting around for a while, especially if it's not been maintained, it may not last you as long. In other words, you really don't know what you're getting with a factory filled battery unless you know when it was filled and how it was stored.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Has anyone had any issues with the NOCO NLP 20 with only a 7 Amp Hour rating, as opposed to the owners manual stating that 21 Amp Hour battery is needed?

As you compare lithium to AGM batteries of the same relative physical size, you’ll see this consistently. The lithium battery will have a higher CCA, but the AGM battery will have a higher AH rating.

A battery is an energy storage device. The AH rating reflects the amount of electrical energy that can be stored in the battery. A Spyder doesn’t need 600 CCA. But, having 21 AH might just get you home, or get you started if you leave the key on while you’re in the restaurant.

It’s always been the Yuasa -BS for me. Just follow the activation instructions provided.

 

[Isopedella]

+ 1 on the getting the 'BS' version.
I have more than 1 ride and all go on not a trickle charger but an intelligent charger.

Some Blokes say that's not a good idea, that's the chargers, as you don't know how your battery is preforming over time.

I say if you fit a Voltmeter, then you're fully informed. There is plenty online to fact check this that describes how they are used, and you get a heads up when a battery is in need of replacing. There are many Voltmeters to choose from. I use these off the Ali express/eBay . Cost is minimal.

 

[K80Shooter]

I have the NoCo NLP20 and love it.

 

[Dakotaz]

Thanks everyone for your input. I'm still a little old school, so think I will stick with the YUASA BS instead of the new tech NOCO. The 2/3rds less amp hour has me a little worried.