Ryker, no. Spyder, yes. I was also advise by Harry (Ride-On engineer) to use the MOTORCYCLE formula in Spyder tires, not the AUTO formula. I did advise him I was using auto tires and he was still adamant to use the M/C formula at the regular dosage rate, not severe rate.
Ryker, no. Spyder, yes. I was also advise by Harry (Ride-On engineer) to use the MOTORCYCLE formula in Spyder tires, not the AUTO formula. I did advise him I was using auto tires and he was still adamant to use the M/C formula at the regular dosage rate, not severe rate.
No issues with the auto version causing any weird behavior?
I've got a couple of containers of the auto version on the shelf.
I never did understand how the two could be very different. I
I wouldn't say 'No Issues'. If you let it sit for more than a week you'll get some wobble for a few miles as the gel relocates. It doesn't bother me. And many times. I can go much more than a week with no issues. My understanding is that the big difference is in the targeted purpose. For motorcycles, there is a much smaller volume of air and a flat tire can be much more catastrophic than on 3 wheels. So the emphasis is on quick and positive seal. With a much smaller rotating mass, there isn't the need for a great deal of balance capability.
It's pretty much the opposite with an automotive tire. With the additional safety factor and a larger volume of air. Quick sealing is not as critical. More attention can be placed on balance capabilities.
My personal experience, at least for the balance portion, seems to bear this out.
How would this work when garaging for the winter? Will the gel eventually smooth back out after such a long period?
I use the hot water method and the arm "windmill" method. Put finger on cap and rotate arm around in fast windmill motion. It does work![]()
How would this work when garaging for the winter? Will the gel eventually smooth back out after such a long period?
As a courtesy to your tire shop, advise what is inside your tire, when it is replaced.