Anyone know what the Fuel Gauge OHMS should be, Full & Empty?

[Can-Am Poogs]

What are the correct ohms for the fuel gauge? Empty =? Full =?

 

[Bob Denman]

Sparks,
Is it a variance in the ohms that causes the fuel gauges to dance so much? :yes:

 

[Bob Denman]

Basically Bob it's this.
All gauges, no matter what they measured used to be voltmeters.
Water Temp, oil pressure, amps... didn't matter they were all voltmeters.
They were high precision devices that were named after their inventor d'arsonval.
Usually with a small d - I don't know why.

There is another more costly way of having a gauge and that is with something called a stepper motor.
A real big version of a stepper motor is what BRP calls the DPS (it steers the Spyder)
Instead of whiring around like a "normal" motor it increments in small steps, Forward and Backward.
The new gauges, as I understand, are now stepper motor type.
More costly, but loads more stable.

:shocked: Uhhhhhh.... okay... pps:

(I'd compare what just happened, to trying to teach a toaster to speak Klingon!)

 

[Bob Denman]

I almost actually know what you're talking about... :2thumbs:
My Medtronic Insulin Pump has got a stepper motor in it! hyea:

 

[Can-Am Poogs]

Baically Bob it's this.
All gauges, no matter what they measured used to be voltmeters.
Water Temp, oil pressure, amps ... didn't matter they were all voltmeters.
They were high precision devices that were named after their inventor d'arsonval.
Usually with a small d - I don't know why.

There is another more costly way of having a gauge and that is with something called a stepper motor.
A real big version of a stepper motor is what BRP calls the DPS (it steers the Spyder)
Instead of whiring around like a "normal" motor it increments in small steps. Forward and backward.
The new gauges, as I understand, are now stepper motor type.
More costly but loads more stable.

Thanks for the original answer about the ohms. Can I ask where you found that information out? I have been looking and asking for days and haven't had a straight answer. Excellent advise, btw, about the stepper motor gauges, and excellent explanation. I have used the search engine on this website to find out as much as I could about this topic, but the ohms resistance full and empty I couldn't find anywhere. Yes I know, the search engine, hard to imagine. Great tool though. From everything I read, riders are pulling the gauges to add volts and oil pressure. I think Lamont Brydon is bang on with his opinion of having too much hardware hanging off the motor for the oil pressure sending unit. Even with the best Loctite, I am not feeling running the risk. I don't mind having analog gauges, but c'mon BRP... put some numbers on them so they mean something to us people who know how to read a gauge. It is also shameful that you have to keep both the fuel and temp analog gauges, and if you only keep one then you don't get both on the digital display. Anyways, I digress. Thanks for the ohms information. This will be very helpful.

 

[StanProff]

Can a resistor or something be bridged on that fuel gage to slow down the bouncing? Your right, I don't know what I'm talking about, but it seems that something like that could slow down the sensitivity of it (I can't spell either, but I hope you know what I mean though).

 

[Bob Denman]

Sparks,
I don't know how you do it :shocked:... and I ain't complaining one bit about it ...
But I actually think that I might even be beginning to maybe understand what you just said! :yikes: :2thumbs: :clap:

 

[NancysToy]

I think that would be a nearly impossible feat.

The trouble is not in what is being measured.
If the signal from the fuel level sender was somehow unstable you could dampen that out but in this case the actual meter mechanism seems to acquire a fault over time that leads to the wild readings.

All signals from sending units are unstable, due to the variations in fuel level cause by motion and attitude in a small tank. Actually, I think they did add electronic damping to the gauges part way through 2010. My original wildly bouncing gauge on my 2010 was replaced with one that was very stable... until it failed at about 5000 miles. My 2011 gauge originally was very steady, but started bouncing at about 11,000 miles. I am guessing that the change can be attributed to a failed electronic component in the gauge. Roger will probably give me a lesson in electronics very soon, and prove my theory to be about as valid as the one I have for perpetual motion.

 

[StanProff]

I think that would be a nearly impossible feat.

The trouble is not in what is being measured.
If the signal from the fuel level sender was somehow unstable you could dampen that out but in this case the actual meter mechanism seems to acquire a fault over time that leads to the wild readings.

maybe I can glue a little bity weight on the back side of the needle to slow it down a little.