anyone else with trunk release problem?

[shansmow]

Hey y'all. Has anyone else had a problem with the trunk not releasing after it has been opened and closed? I've had my 2009 SE5 6 weeks now and last week I had to take it into the dealer because of the trunk not opening. As soon as I turn off the Spyder I can open the trunk; however, when if I close it and try to re-open it, it won't open. I have to turn the Spyder back on, put it in first to move it an inch or so, and then it'll open again. Very embarrassing to do this at the store or work! The dealer said the cable had become disconnected??? and put in a spot tie to connect the cable to the release and it worked fine for a day or two but it's doing it again. So back to the dealer we go Anyone else had the issue and have any suggestions? I haven't tried the emergency release yet....
Thanks.

 

[BRPjunkie]

Hey y'all. Has anyone else had a problem with the trunk not releasing after it has been opened and closed? I've had my 2009 SE5 6 weeks now and last week I had to take it into the dealer because of the trunk not opening. As soon as I turn off the Spyder I can open the trunk; however, when if I close it and try to re-open it, it won't open. I have to turn the Spyder back on, put it in first to move it an inch or so, and then it'll open again. Very embarrassing to do this at the store or work! The dealer said the cable had become disconnected??? and put in a spot tie to connect the cable to the release and it worked fine for a day or two but it's doing it again. So back to the dealer we go Anyone else had the issue and have any suggestions? I haven't tried the emergency release yet....
Thanks.

The situation you describe is just wierd, since the trunk release should operate regardless of whether the Spyder is started or not. It is just a simple cable release. If the latch is adjusted too tight, it could be causing the gasket to hold the trunk down. You need to install one of the trunk lid springs posted on this site and it should solve the problem.

 

[BumbleBee]

welcome I have had my SE5 for about 6 weeks also. But so far had no problems with the trunk. Keep us posted. I hope you get that fixed!!!

 

[Twodog185]

Here's a solution to using the key. Works as long as there's battery power.

Door lock actuator
Momentary contact switch

Switch installed in air inlet

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

TRUNK RELEASE

Hey y'all. Has anyone else had a problem with the trunk not releasing after it has been opened and closed? I've had my 2009 SE5 6 weeks now and last week I had to take it into the dealer because of the trunk not opening. As soon as I turn off the Spyder I can open the trunk; however, when if I close it and try to re-open it, it won't open. I have to turn the Spyder back on, put it in first to move it an inch or so, and then it'll open again. Very embarrassing to do this at the store or work! The dealer said the cable had become disconnected??? and put in a spot tie to connect the cable to the release and it worked fine for a day or two but it's doing it again. So back to the dealer we go Anyone else had the issue and have any suggestions? I haven't tried the emergency release yet....
Thanks.

The condition(s) you describe do not correlate with the mechanical operation of the trunk. Sounds like to me that you just need to adjust the latch or cable. I assume that you do know that you must hold your key in the trunk unlock position while you reach around and lift the trunk lid. This can be fixed with a simple spring; I think there are instructions on this site.:doorag:

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

post

The situation you describe is just wierd, since the trunk release should operate regardless of whether the Spyder is started or not. It is just a simple cable release. If the latch is adjusted too tight, it could be causing the gasket to hold the trunk down. You need to install one of the trunk lid springs posted on this site and it should solve the problem.

Sorry BRPjunkie, I added my post before I read yours; I think we said the same thing.pps:

 

[BRPjunkie]

Sorry BRPjunkie, I added my post before I read yours; I think we said the same thing.pps:

Some say the best way to learn something is to hear it twice. Some say the best way to learn something is to hear it twice.

 

[shansmow]

Thanks for the suggestions so far. I tried adjusting the latch as suggested and I am going to add the spring once I get it looked at again. It still doesn't make sense to me why it'll only open after it's been turned on and moved because when I have the trunk open I can see the cable moving the release. And I've tried a variety of methods with a co-worker....she'd hold the key down and turned and I'd try pushing on it and then pulling on it, rocking it back and forth, etc. Strange but the only way it would release is for me to start it, move it, and then I was able to open it. Hopefully the powers that be will be able to come up with some sort of reasonable explaination. Keep the suggestions coming because I'm one of the first in my area to have a Spyder and the technicians (although tehnically trained) don't have a whole lot of experience working on them. Thanks again.

 

[aka1004]

my trunk is not opening...
i've having problem with not locking for a little bit and now it wont open. it's going in shop on tuesday for everything. rear fender, stuff dealer did not do on my 12k service and this.

 

[bone crusher]

Your trunk is releasing but the release mechanism is not strong enough to keep it open. We have a lot of threads on this topic. One of the fastest, easiest, and cheapest ways to go is to install a spring (number 155) from any hardware store (not HD or Lowe's...I mean real hardware store)...put in over the male portion of the trunk latch...

This will create a spring effect that will open your trunk.

The stock mechanism wears out very fast and becomes useless...the spring will make it work again...

 

[bone crusher]

Read this thread...


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8848&highlight=trunk

 

[bone crusher]

The stock setup doesn't 'wear out'.....It's only designed to be a latch release while you manually lift the trunk lid.....The added spring merely helps it to be a one-handed operation, while still retaining 'the useless, worn out stock mechanism'.........

Well, actually, the rubber does wear out, thus not 'springing' the latch anymore...a spring fixes this problem permanently...most everyone who has done this simple fix hasn't had a problem since...they should've put a spring in to begin with...

When the rubber wears out, you can open the latch as much as you want...it becomes a two hand process and many people think the actual mechanism is broken...this is not the case...

 

[gazey]

Sounds like your key mechanism might be a bit dodgy. I am guessing that turning the key to the on (CW) position is moving the cable lever in the key part a bit more clockwise, so when you turn it ACW it has a bit more movement to open the latch. In other words. Sounds like somthing in the key turn part may be loose.
You can probably tell by looking into the latch part and see what is actually happening when you turn the key.

 

[aka1004]

i have the spring in place. there is no pressure like it used to have when i turn the key to open the trunk. i checked the cable and it's still intact. so idk.

 

[Tripod]

Pirate Powersports in Riverside, CA makes a machined assembly that mounts over the stock locking post. It's about $20. but it looks very cool, works perfectly to "pop" the trunk open and threre's no spring hanging down to catch on stuff. Sorry, I don't have the contact info off hand.

Tripod :joke:

 

[Some Guy]

Some one on e-bay has the trunk popping spring for a low (?) price of $19.99 nojoke ...I'll sell you the same 75 cent spring for $14.99! Woo Hoo...saving money!!! :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

Seriously...the 75 cent spring works great for me.

 

[bone crusher]

Pirate Powersports in Riverside, CA makes a machined assembly that mounts over the stock locking post. It's about $20. but it looks very cool, works perfectly to "pop" the trunk open and threre's no spring hanging down to catch on stuff. Sorry, I don't have the contact info off hand.

Tripod :joke:

The spring 'hanging down' doesn't get caught on anything...this is a really cheap fix (like under a buck) and it works perfectly...no need to waste money on this one...save it for other mods....

 

[bjt]

Pirate Powersports in Riverside, CA makes a machined assembly that mounts over the stock locking post. It's about $20. but it looks very cool, works perfectly to "pop" the trunk open and threre's no spring hanging down to catch on stuff. Sorry, I don't have the contact info off hand.

Tripod :joke:

The spring 'hanging down' doesn't get caught on anything...this is a really cheap fix (like under a buck) and it works perfectly...no need to waste money on this one...save it for other mods....

+1 I've not had mine or my wife's homemade trunk latch spring catch on anything or fail to work in over 1 year of use. It was free for us as the springs were leftover springnut springs from some prior project.

 

[bjt]

Sounds like your key mechanism might be a bit dodgy. I am guessing that turning the key to the on (CW) position is moving the cable lever in the key part a bit more clockwise, so when you turn it ACW it has a bit more movement to open the latch. In other words. Sounds like somthing in the key turn part may be loose.
You can probably tell by looking into the latch part and see what is actually happening when you turn the key.

I agree with gazey here. I also know firsthand that if the pin isn't lined up and adjusted properly, it can be difficult to open the trunk. My advice is to open the trunk, remove the cover piece that conceals the latch mechanism, fusebox, coolant overflow tank, etc. and then open and close the trunk. With that cover piece off, you should be able to see what's happening at the latch and verify that your pin is fitting into the latch hole correctly.