Any thoughts on battery replacement? Change now or at failure?

[Sentinel]

Hi All,

Any thoughts on proactive battery replacement? I have a well maintained 4.5 year old battery that has never given me an issue. Knowing average life expectancy and there is little warning when they go wondering if it just better to do it at start of season and wait for failure, jump it, and replace when ride over.

Leaning towards the proactive approach but I have a general aversion to replacing something that works.

Interested in your thoughts, experiences, options.

Thanks All!

 

[MNF3]

Buy an unfilled battery. Don’t fill or charge it till you need it. Buy a jump pack and keep it in the Spyder. When it gets to the point where you have to use the jump pack to start the Spyder a few times, fill and charge your new battery and replace.

 

[Bensonoid]

Buy an unfilled battery. Don’t fill or charge it till you need it. Buy a jump pack and keep it in the Spyder. When it gets to the point where you have to use the jump pack to start the Spyder a few times, fill and charge your new battery and replace.

That's what I'm doing also.

 

[Mikey]

If your bike seems to be turning over slower than it used to that is a good sign it's time, but of you can also take your ride to any good auto supply house and get a free load test and that will give you a good idea of the health of your battery also!! if you try to start the bike bike and it rolls over like it's coming up to compression and wanting to hang up, get rid of it, it's going to leave you stranded!!!

 

[Rednaxs60]

These Spyders are power hogs. Battery is inexpensive and peace of mind is priceless. Look at it as one of the maintenance items that needs to be done. If you ride with the Mrs, definitely a good idea to do a battery change.

 

[BajaRon]

My original battery lasted 7 years. Many are not so fortunate. I ran it to the bitter end. It became obvious when it needed to be replaced. Never left me stranded.

 

[troop]

I just tend to replace my m/c batteries every (4) years. Only had a couple of failures over 28 bikes, fortunately both at home. Always tendered. Just cheap insurance.

 

[RICZ]

A forum friend, BLUEKNIGHT911, in another battery thread, has an excellent way to get the full life out of your battery and I am going to adopt it too.
He carries one of those portable power packs and the second time he has to use it to jump start his bike, he replaces the battery.
Why the second? The first time might just be an anomaly.

 

[ARtraveler]

I have replaced many batteries with my ownership of 7 Spyders over the years. I usually do mine at 3 years plus--whether they need it or not. Coming from Alaska, I did not want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere. When a battery crashes, it is a done deal, and there are usually not a lot of warning signs.

I have always used OEM batteries from the dealers.

 

[2dogs]

I installed a voltmeter on my 14 RTS which gives me a good indication of when my battery is starting to lose its full charge faster than normal after startup. I replaced my OEM battery at 6 1/2 years with another OEM battery. My spyder also lives on a tender year around when not being ridden. One thing any battery hates is sitting around empty or half empty. Once sealed batteries came out for our M/Cs, ATVs, jet skis, and so on I've never used any other type of battery. Most all the batteries on these dam toys are stuffed into places where it's nearly impossible to check their fluid level without removing the entire battery. I hate that!

 

[Peteoz]

I just tend to replace my m/c batteries every (4) years. Only had a couple of failures over 28 bikes, fortunately both at home. Always tendered. Just cheap insurance.

I’m with Troop. I swap over at 4 years regardless.
BUT……..I also had a “new” battery in my ‘16 F3, purchased by me in 2016, that failed after 12 months and left me stranded. My fault really, because I ignored the warning signs that Mikey mentions above, and just put it down to the F3 sitting too long between rides. It really is pot luck how long they last, but a regular 4 year replacement is insurance I am prepared to wear to decrease the possibility of failure.

Pete

 

[SportsterDoc]

Sentinel, what is battery voltage:
a. immediately after riding a few miles and shut down? Over 12.8 (AGM)?
b. what is battery voltage the next morning, before power up? Not lower than 12.7 (AGM)? Measured in same manner.

Without load, other than single digit milli-amps for ECU, etc, a reading of 12.5 - 12.6 or less is usually an indication that a cell is failing, that the other 5 cells are overcharging, but the failing cell is not maintaining voltage.

 

[SportsterDoc]

Battery voltages
Truck operated 12+ miles mid-day today: 12.79 volts (may be lower due to automatic dome and cargo lights, even though LED)
Bike operated 10+ miles mid-day yesterday: 12.81 volts

When we last had a second car and the truck operated infrequently, a weekly voltage check was down to 12.5 volts. It started without hesitation, but shortly thereafter failed to start.

 

[ThreeWheels]

Hi All,

Any thoughts on proactive battery replacement? I have a well maintained 4.5 year old battery that has never given me an issue. Knowing average life expectancy and there is little warning when they go wondering if it just better to do it at start of season and wait for failure, jump it, and replace when ride over.

Leaning towards the proactive approach but I have a general aversion to replacing something that works.

Interested in your thoughts, experiences, options.

Thanks All!

I'm sure you've heard this from others in this thread.
Replace the battery no later than 5 years old. Why push it. It's cheap insurance.
It will cost you far more money and aggravation the day you're out someplace and you can't get the bike started for the return home.

As always, my free advice comes with a double your money back guarantee,

 

[SportsterDoc]

Many battery manufacturers will cite a life expectancy of 5-6, sometimes 7 years; but that is climate dependent.
In Las Vegas or Phoenix, 3 years is doing good.
Operating in Arizona and Nevada, with ambient pushing 120 F, the original lead acid battery in my truck lasted 20 months
Replacement AGM batteries lasted 19 months and 26 months.
This is analogous to Midtronics chart:

https://www.midtronics.com/2020/07/07/why-hot-temperatures-reduce-the-lifespan-of-batteries/

 

[Deanna777]

I have a 2014RTS-SE6 I changed the OEM battery in 2018.

Deanna

 

[LongIsland]

Hey Sentinel, I was thinking the same as you in the spring of 2019 and decided to replace my battery of 5 yrs. I followed advice someone gave me many years ago If you have concerns about something failing that is replaceable, replace it before failure. As others have said it's cheap insurance and provides peace of mind. Why chance a breakdown when it is preventable.

 

[Little Blue]

Battery Life? ?

:gaah: ....Well, always a deep surprise.
Give the battery an annual physical 'Load Test'.
This is a pass or fail.
If needed, replace the battery.
Most Yuasa 'YUAM7250H' will likely last 5 to 8 years.

That being said, temperatures are always a deal breaker.
So depending on your location, battery life can be very stressful.
So do get a Load Test on your Battery.

Your Spyder, do whatever will work for you. .....:thumbup:

PS : Remember to use 'Star Washers'. ....opcorn:

 

[SportsterDoc]

Load test is good idea.
A field load test is to measure battery voltage while cranking.
Best to not be under 10.5 volts.

• If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
• Battery has a bad cell or
• Battery cable(s) have high resistance or
• Starter is drawing too much current

 

[SportsterDoc]

A fully charged AGM is 12.8 volts / 6 = 2.13 volts per cell, so a failed cell will drop voltage to 10.67 volts as soon as load is applied, even if other 5 cells have overcharged. A good battery will typically drop under starter load to 11 point something.