Any ideas on why it's Stalling?? Comments?

[ARNIE R]

I took my 2014 STS out today for the first time after about 12 days since arriving home from Florida on a family issue. The bike had run ok in FL, except that it did stall out once at idle, but restarted right away.

Today, it started up and I got everything ready to go and took off. Got two blocks away and the engine started running rough, then cut out completely. I also noted it was still 2nd gear. Check engine light flashed momentarily off and on. Tried restarting it several times only to have it cut out again. Finally got it running long enough to make it one more block home, then it died again. Couldn't get it to start again.

Had to push it the last block home with help of a neighbor.

Tried several more times and got it running only long enough to back halfway up the driveway. Seems it would start and go in gear, but as soon as I tried to move, it would die. Check engine light would appear off and on again.

Left it in the garage for a few hours and did a restart and it ran for about 4-5 minutes, then started running rough again, then cut out.

Gonna call the dealer tomorrow with much anguish as they had my bike in April-May for oil leak issue for about 5-6 weeks, so I know I am in for another waiting period. They are not very efficient.

Any ideas or comments on what may have occurred?

 

[bikerchris1270]

I took my 2014 STS out today for the first time after about 12 days since arriving home from Florida on a family issue. The bike had run ok in FL, except that it did stall out once at idle, but restarted right away.

Today, it started up and I got everything ready to go and took off. Got two blocks away and the engine started running rough, then cut out completely. I also noted it was still 2nd gear. Check engine light flashed momentarily off and on. Tried restarting it several times only to have it cut out again. Finally got it running long enough to make it one more block home, then it died again. Couldn't get it to start again.

Had to push it the last block home with help of a neighbor.

Tried several more times and got it running only long enough to back halfway up the driveway. Seems it would start and go in gear, but as soon as I tried to move, it would die. Check engine light would appear off and on again.

Left it in the garage for a few hours and did a restart and it ran for about 4-5 minutes, then started running rough again, then cut out.

Gonna call the dealer tomorrow with much anguish as they had my bike in April-May for oil leak issue for about 5-6 weeks, so I know I am in for another waiting period. They are not very efficient.

Any ideas or comments on what may have occurred?

Check for codes.

 

[ARNIE R]

P0335

Is there a list somewhere I can check?

 

[Peter Aawen]

P0335

Is there a list somewhere I can check?

You can always type 'OBD Code P0335' into Google or duckduckgo!

SpyderCodes (which is no longer available ) suggests that's a Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) error code - the CPS is either incorrectly inserted, incorrectly connected, or it's damaged. Check the relevant connections for dirt, bent pins, or unsecure connections. You might be able to measure the resistance from the connector as follows:

ECM A-H1 to CPS-PIN 1 expected value < 2 ohms
ECM A-K2 to CPS-PIN 2 expected value < 2 ohms

Failing any of that, it's probably replacement time... but I don't think that's a major task. :dontknow:

Good Luck! :cheers:

 

[ARNIE R]

Thank you , Sir. Just found it referenced on another thread. I'll give it a check tomorrow.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thank you , Sir. Just found it referenced on another thread. I'll give it a check tomorrow.

Just a random thought ..... are your Battery connections tight - did you ever add STAR washers ??? .... good luck .... sometimes it's the little things .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Bfromla]

:gaah: :sour: FYI Had similar but different codes, stalling was from topping off the tank (overfilled & left no room to slosh :dontknow: ) resolved with purge valve replacement & no more over filling :lecturef_smilie: Did however possibly lead to starter burning out shortly there after. :banghead: Another possibility for stalls - Stock vacuum hoses get micro cracks, upgrade to silicon.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

:gaah: :sour: FYI Had similar but different codes, stalling was from topping off the tank (overfilled & left no room to slosh :dontknow: ) resolved with purge valve replacement & no more over filling :lecturef_smilie: Did however possibly lead to starter burning out shortly there after. :banghead: Another possibility for stalls - Stock vacuum hoses get micro cracks, upgrade to silicon.

Wellllllllll, I have filled every ( 3 ) Spyder I have owned to the MAX Everytime I got gas .... never had a Stalling issue .... :agree: on the Vacuum Hoses a switch to silicone may solve this .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

Another thought...bad gas?? Seafoam or similar may help.

 

[ARNIE R]

Yes, Sir, did that.

 

[ARNIE R]

I was wondering about the gas issue myself. It had been filled up in Florida during my last ride, which was slightly over two weeks ago. Only rode 37 miles on that tank before I packed it up for the trip home. I usually Seafoam every 3-4 tank in practice.

 

[ARNIE R]

Frustrated. Apparently I am too simple to understand the resistance testing procedure. Pulled the CPS unit and only found some dirty oil on the bottom sensor. Have the Green Service Manual and the testing procedure isn't registering with my mind.

Also, called two dealerships and both are busy until mid or late August, so they can't even look at it to confirm a bad CPS until then. If they could at least verify that, I would just go buy another one and install it myself.

 

[ARNIE R]

OK, I put everything back together and ran the bike for one ten and another 15 minute period without issue. Yesterday, it would only run 5 minutes at max, then stall. I also attempted to pull up any codes on the gauge cluster and found none this time. I am wondering it that little bit of dirty oil on the CPS had anything to do with it or not.

Kinda apprehensive about taking it out until someone can BUDS the thing, but not waiting that long to find out for certain.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Frustrated. Apparently I am too simple to understand the resistance testing procedure. Pulled the CPS unit and only found some dirty oil on the bottom sensor. Have the Green Service Manual and the testing procedure isn't registering with my mind.

Also, called two dealerships and both are busy until mid or late August, so they can't even look at it to confirm a bad CPS until then. If they could at least verify that, I would just go buy another one and install it myself.

Well, you unplug the sensor’s harness plug, set your multimeter to read resistance, and take the resistance reading of the sensor across the two pins in its plug. The resistance should be in the range shown on the page. Refer to the page about the sensor in the electronic fuel injection section, not the code table page. Was it in spec? There’s no other BUDS operations or diagnostic that can be done. There’s no reset or anything like that.

You may have done two things to help your cause. You cleaned off the pickup area of the sensor and you unplugged and plugged in the harness connector cleaning off any corrosion. The choice is yours. Ride it as is or order a new one and replace it yourself. No initialization with BUDS is required. But if you want peace of mind, or if the resistance reading was way off, assuming the manual is correct, it probably should be replaced.

 

[PMK]

Replace the crank sensor. It may check good or may check bad. It could even be failing as it gets hot. Change it and rule it out.

While working on it, if not done yet, replace the two vacuum hoses with silicone vacuum hose.

 

[ARNIE R]

Think I will take that advice.

I emailed BRP with the issue and basically got told that they have no control over the dealer's service schedules and call other dealers, which I did. No appointments available anywhere til mid or late August. Haha......

I ended up letting it idle again for another 25 minute session and had no issues after that. Then I "boldly" went out for a two hour ride very very locally so the walk home would not be that far away (or the AAA wait).

Gonna order the new sensor to be safe.

 

[ARNIE R]

Yes, those hoses are next.

 

[ARNIE R]

Another thought...bad gas?? Seafoam or similar may help.

Yes, dumped some in today.

 

[ARNIE R]

Replace the crank sensor. It may check good or may check bad. It could even be failing as it gets hot. Change it and rule it out.

While working on it, if not done yet, replace the two vacuum hoses with silicone vacuum hose.

Looking at the Green service manual and Cheap Cycle parts website, I am not sure I am seeing the vacuum hose parts or locations. Any clues on what and where I am looking?

 

[pegasus1300]

Just go down to NAPA auto parts store and get some 3mm silicone hose. You'll need about 8 inches. The hoses are on the left side just above the oil filter. There are 2 of them one very visible the other not so much but they are there together. Pull one off and measure it against your new hose and cut it exact. Then do the other. Just pretend you are doing and oil change take the same covers off and you will find them.