Amount of brake pedal movement?

[ulflyer]

On my SE RT, if I pump the pedal once or twice coming to a stop, braking action seems much more positive. Had dealer check it out as I thought maybe there was some air in the lines, but they said thats the way they all are. This, and measuring belt tension, was worth $87 to them! :shocked:

Comments from others appreciated.

 

[bullant12]

Can you get a second opinion? It sounds like you went to your buying dealer, and that is a bunch of bull IMO. If it has air in the brakes, they need to find the cause; if it was needing of double pumping to stop (which mine stops on a dime even after 4600 miles) since you got ownership, it is their responsability to have it working correctly. If you had them ask to measure the belt, they will charge you. I would have waited until the 600 checkup unless you see some wear on the belt.

 

[boborgera]

On my SE RT, if I pump the pedal once or twice coming to a stop, braking action seems much more positive. Had dealer check it out as I thought maybe there was some air in the lines, but they said thats the way they all are. This, and measuring belt tension, was worth $87 to them! :shocked:

Comments from others appreciated.

Usually air in the line gives a mushy feel, If you have to pump to get the brakes to work properly that usually means a master cylinder leak down.

[diaphragm]

 

[ARtraveler]

I just had the rear brake pads replaced. I noted no difference in pedal travel before/after. If I pump the brake pedal--it does seem like more ooomph. I have not had any problems stopping on a dime though. Thinking its the nature of the beast.

 

[MouthPiece]

I just had the rear brake pads replaced. I noted no difference in pedal travel before/after. If I pump the brake pedal--it does seem like more ooomph. I have not had any problems stopping on a dime though. Thinking its the nature of the beast.

That's perdy much "right on" with me. I don't "have to" pump. The brakes work fine the first time, but when I do pump, there does seem to be a little more ooompth to them.

Chris

 

[Lamonster]

I hate to say it but he's right, if you pump the pedal it will get harder, that's how the RS and the RT are.

 

[SpyderDen]

I usually try to pump or tap the pedal on all normal stops. Does firm up the pedal and gives the "wake up" effect to vehicles following me.

 

[NancysToy]

I hate to say it but he's right, if you pump the pedal it will get harder, that's how the RS and the RT are.

:agree: They have always been that way.

 

[spyryder]

I hate to say it but he's right, if you pump the pedal it will get harder, that's how the RS and the RT are.

Could it be there's too much slack in the parking brake? I'd look at the RT's rear caliper pulley and see if it can be repositioned, much like the GS/RS's rear lever adjustment. I know when I've adjusted the parking brake on my GS that there's less brake pedal travel afterward.

 

[ulflyer]

Thanks to all for the feedback. Mine sounds just as several of you have described "as normal", which makes me feel better about what the Mech said. I am going to take a look at the rear parking brake to see if its something I can adjust, if needed, or for future use.

 

[boborgera]

Just because its called normal [on a few Spyders] doesn't mean its right, I never had to pump the brakes on my Spyder, or for
that matter any bike i owned.
Pumping the brakes defeats the purpose of Anti Locking Brakes.

 

[NancysToy]

Just because its called normal [on a few Spyders] doesn't mean its right, I never had to pump the brakes on my Spyder, or for
that matter any bike i owned.
Pumping the brakes defeats the purpose of Anti Locking Brakes.

It's not a matter of having to pump the brakes. It is just that if you do happen to hit the pedal more than once it gets firmer.

 

[ulflyer]

Scotty, thats exactly the way mine is. Question: can the parking brake be tightened a little to take up some of this slack? Or would that cause other issues?

 

[NancysToy]

Scotty, thats exactly the way mine is. Question: can the parking brake be tightened a little to take up some of this slack? Or would that cause other issues?

The parking brake can be adjusted...and should be if it is out of spec, but I don't know that it would affect the brake pedal height on first application much. You certainly don't want the parking brake too tight. Parking brake adjustment certainly doesn't change the pedal hheight on first application much on the RS, which needs frequent parking brake adjustment. I think this is more the nature of the beast, and involves the way it is engineered, with the brake controller in the mix. My F-150 does the same thing. I'm not sure why folks are worried about it, as long as the travel is not excessive, and the Spyder stops well.

 

[jctek]

Pumping Brakes

I know this is an older post but it fits in line with the issue I am having. I just bought a 2010 RT and just got it serviced by the dealer. They replaced the rear and front pads, rear tire and bled the brakes.

They told me the parking brake was locked somehow which forced the rear pads to get worn down to the metal.

When I went to pick it up and drove it out of the lot it wouldn't stop AT ALL. I had to pump the brakes a few times and it stopped. It happened every time.

I brought it back to the dealer and he ran it through the bleeding process again and now says it is within factory specs. Now when I stop if I MASH on the brake it bottoms out but does stop quick.

If I pump it a few times the pedal feels firm and stops quick. It is also about 1/4" higher than the foot pad. When I wait a few seconds and hit the brake again it bottoms even with the pad.

Again it stops when you really push on the pedal and is behaving like you guys say in the thread but it doesn't feel as strong as it did before I brought it to the dealer but they say that is because someone messed with the parking brake and was engaged all the time.

Should I bring it back or is the mechanic right that they feel a little squishy on the older models? Seems to be if I pump the brakes on any system and they firm up there is air in the lines.

Thanks!

 

[Bob Denman]

I hate to say it... :shocked:


...But it sounds just about like it's doing what they all do! :shocked:

The older bikes just seemed to like a heavier foot on the pedal; when it came time to throw out the anchor.
The newer Brembo-equipped bikes don't seem to be quite as fussy...

 

[jctek]

ok, thanks! I was a little worried that is what someone would say.

I guess my question at this point is when I first picked it up it wouldn't stop at all. Then he went through the bleeding process a few more times and now it stops with the mushy pedal.

So if bleeding it again helped it to get a little more firm and at least stop wouldn't it make sense that if they did that a few more times I could get the firm pedal like it was before they messed with it?

Thanks again!

 

[GearHd]

I'm not a Spyder expert but with cars and bikes, if you're pumping the pedal and it's getting firmer then you've got air in the system still.

 

[jctek]

I'm not a Spyder expert but with cars and bikes, if you're pumping the pedal and it's getting firmer then you've got air in the system still.

Funny! I said the exact same thing to service tech. I am bringing it back tomorrow and having them work on it again. I am a pretty big car guy and I agree that if you pump any hydraulic brake system and it becomes more firm then there is air in the lines still!

Later!

 

[timeless]

2010 RT SE5 Brakes

I know this is an older post but it fits in line with the issue I am having. I just bought a 2010 RT and just got it serviced by the dealer. They replaced the rear and front pads, rear tire and bled the brakes.

They told me the parking brake was locked somehow which forced the rear pads to get worn down to the metal.

When I went to pick it up and drove it out of the lot it wouldn't stop AT ALL. I had to pump the brakes a few times and it stopped. It happened every time.

I brought it back to the dealer and he ran it through the bleeding process again and now says it is within factory specs. Now when I stop if I MASH on the brake it bottoms out but does stop quick.

If I pump it a few times the pedal feels firm and stops quick. It is also about 1/4" higher than the foot pad. When I wait a few seconds and hit the brake again it bottoms even with the pad.

Again it stops when you really push on the pedal and is behaving like you guys say in the thread but it doesn't feel as strong as it did before I brought it to the dealer but they say that is because someone messed with the parking brake and was engaged all the time.

Should I bring it back or is the mechanic right that they feel a little squishy on the older models? Seems to be if I pump the brakes on any system and they firm up there is air in the lines.

Thanks!

I have a 2010 RTSE5 and the brakes are very solid!!!!! No pumping required and a very firm pedal, the bike stops with very little effort just as it should. I purchased this spyder new in 2010, it is a PE edition. The only time the pedel needed pumping was when I let the brake fluid get a tad low& it does not take much for this to happen. You must still have a ton of air in the system & be a little low on fluid.