Aftermarket Cooling fan options

[RShrimp]

I put 2000 miles on the Spyder last week at SITS and had some observations about engine temp.
I rode home on Sunday in the rain and was at 2-3 bars all day and the Spyder ran the best it ever did.
At 4 bars it starts to miss and stutter at very low RPM and like leaving a stop light.
At 5-6 bars it just plain runs like crap.
Even at 90 degrees at interstate speed it runs 3 bars so this makes me think it is all about air flow.

Goal, more air flow (through the radiator) at low speeds.

I am thinking of going to a high performance fan. I found a 12 inch fan that pulls 1450CFM but draws 22 amps. (I know I will need relays here)

First questions:
How big is the stock fan?
How many amps does it draw?( I saw in the manual that is has a 10 amp fuse)
What is the CFM rating?

 

[RShrimp]

Starting the research:
It's a 10 inch fan

I found this one that pulls 950CFM at 8.3 amps
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/1985/10002/-1

Then I found this one that pulls 1200cfm at 6.3 amps
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=426

 

[M2Wild]

You got the MAD and AMS in? Seems to work pretty well for me.

 

[NancysToy]

If I were you, I would look for other problems first. The Spyder thermostat doesn't even open until 2-3 bars, and 4-5 bars is normal operating temperature. I think you have other issues. Has the first steering recall (software update) been done, but not the engine performance (second) update? How many miles...do the valves need adjusting? Do you have intake/exhaust mods, but no fuel system mods to feed them? Is the purge valve working properly? What you are experiencing is not normal or common. You need to get to the root cause.

 

[RShrimp]

You got the MAD and AMS in? Seems to work pretty well for me.

What is MAD and AMS?

 

[NancysToy]

What is MAD and AMS?

SpyderPops' Missing Air Dam and Air Management System.

 

[RShrimp]

If I were you, I would look for other problems first. The Spyder thermostat doesn't even open until 2-3 bars, and 4-5 bars is normal operating temperature. I think you have other issues. Has the first steering recall (software update) been done, but not the engine performance (second) update? How many miles...do the valves need adjusting? Do you have intake/exhaust mods, but no fuel system mods to feed them? Is the purge valve working properly? What you are experiencing is not normal or common. You need to get to the root cause.

While these are all good questions.
All recalls done except new DPS (I am in line)
Intake and exhaust mods yes but also fuel mods.(Juice box and O2mod)
9000 miles
fuel canister gone and vented tank
New plugs at the 7500 mile service
I agree that it is not normal but ,I beg to differ on the common part, I rode with several others and they are all the same (this is Florida)
The issue is always in the lower RPM range (below 4000) I dont run it there that much but you do have to get away from a stop light.
If it would run at the thermostat setting of 2-3 bars we would be golden.
Even 4 bars is acceptable. It's the 5-6 when stuck in traffic that make it very hard to enjoy.

 

[RShrimp]

SpyderPops' Missing Air Dam and Air Management System.

I have all that. I does keep the heat off me but it does not make it run any cooler.

 

[Firefly]

If I were you, I would look for other problems first. The Spyder thermostat doesn't even open until 2-3 bars, and 4-5 bars is normal operating temperature. I think you have other issues. Has the first steering recall (software update) been done, but not the engine performance (second) update? How many miles...do the valves need adjusting? Do you have intake/exhaust mods, but no fuel system mods to feed them? Is the purge valve working properly? What you are experiencing is not normal or common. You need to get to the root cause.

:agree:

More air thru the radiator is not likely the problem.

Once you're going 40mph the fan spins on it's own due to the natural air draw. Below 40 it won't spin unless it's on. I would recommend starting with the fan switch bypass that many have done so you can turn it on at the lower speeds and see what that does.

 

[RShrimp]

:agree:

More air thru the radiator is not likely the problem.

Once you're going 40mph the fan spins on it's own due to the natural air draw. Below 40 it won't spin unless it's on. I would recommend starting with the fan switch bypass that many have done so you can turn it on at the lower speeds and see what that does.

That was for sure going to be part of this mod. I just figured for under $100 I can have the badazz fan too. Looks like an easy install.

 

[ataDude]

...I am thinking of going to a high performance fan. I found a 12 inch fan that pulls 1450CFM but draws 22 amps. (I know I will need relays here)...

You may need more than relays for this fan... that is a heavy draw compared to what the magneto puts out. From memory, that is roughly 1/2 of the Spyder's total output.

.

 

[RShrimp]

Yea, Thats a 12 incher so no can do. The 10 inchers I found draw 8-10 amps. The stocker is on a 10 amp fuse so it likely draws 5-6

 

[WackyDan]

You may need more than relays for this fan... that is a heavy draw compared to what the magneto puts out. From memory, that is roughly 1/2 of the Spyder's total output.

.

Yup...240 watts peak just for that fan.

 

[RShrimp]

At least with that fan you would know exactly why it was not running right {or at all}(dead battery!)

I picked the Mr Gasket one. It is 950cfm and draws 8 amps. I am gonna wire it with a switch and through the temp control as well. I will have the stock fan control fire a relay and a switch that can fire the same relay. This will make for less strain on the factory harness.
I just hope Canbus is not monitering resistance on that fan circuit. (Since it is already on a relay, I dought it)
If I keep adding stuff , I see an Oddecy Battery in my future. I know it does not really solve the draw vs charge issue but it does buy you more time.

 

[Campverdefela]

If I were you, I would look for other problems first. The Spyder thermostat doesn't even open until 2-3 bars, and 4-5 bars is normal operating temperature. I think you have other issues. Has the first steering recall (software update) been done, but not the engine performance (second) update? How many miles...do the valves need adjusting? Do you have intake/exhaust mods, but no fuel system mods to feed them? Is the purge valve working properly? What you are experiencing is not normal or common. You need to get to the root cause.

:agree:And I believe the Spal fan controller is the way to go....
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spal-...eBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleBase

 

[sandy]

heat

i had the same problem,the dealer said i needed the hot box.i have 10000 miles on it and it always ran good even in traffic but it got worse and worse worse. had to leave a group ride because of backfrreing and went home and sat down to think. i took off the panels and spent half hour running water through oil cooler and radiator and then went for ride through port charlotte at three in afternoon, did not go over four bars.the radiator and cooler looked clean befor hand bit is hard to see. email me at [email protected] i will let you know after ride to sebring this saturday.

 

[NancysToy]

From your list of mods, I suspect a fuel mixture problem (too rich). If the engine performance update was done (and it is not done unless you request it or have that specified problem), then I would begin to wonder about your fuel system mods and settings. If it were mine, I'd get it hot, let it run poorly for a while, then pull a plug to see what it looked like.

If you want your Spyder to run at the thermostat temp, approximately 160 degrees, it will take more than a bigger fan. You are going to have to move more water through the engine. That means a bigger water pump, bigger cooling system capacity, larger radiator, or a combination of those. More fan may help, especially in low speed, stop-and-go situations, but it is not the answer at any significant speed. Some fans even impede air flow at speed.

I hope you find the solution you seek, and are not disappointed in the end.

 

[FANG]

I live in Florida also and we have had an extremely hot summer. I have run at 4-5 bars almost always - when in traffic at a stop light (you know the ones that take forever to change) I have had mine rise to 7 bars (110 heat index) suspect the asphalt temp to be in the 130 range or higher. I have called and talked to the service mgr at my dealer about this a couple of times.
Fan comes on at 5 bars and the temp does go down when I can get some air flowing. Since we have cooler temps now I am anxious to see how the spyders handles the temp.
however the point of this is that the spyder has never run rough with the bars at 7. It still runs great I just get paniced watching the bars climb.
Not a mechanic and I do only basic maintenance on my bike so I will bow to the experts here -- if your fan is working at 5-6 bars then why do you need to replace it??

 

[aka1004]

New fan from brp is working great. It has larger shroud and covers the entire radiator. I was having some over heating issues when it was over 100 degrees every day and dealer installed the new fan and it helped a lot. I no longer need the manual fan switch. Fan was replaced under warranty. Brp is replacing them on case by case basis at dealer's recommendation.