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Adventures in tire replacement and now how do I tension the belt?

Spyder Monkey

New member
So I attempted to follow Lamonster's video on wheel removal where you did not have to re-tension the belt but it did not work out like I hoped.

I broke the axle nut and the lower shock nut free on the ground then lifted the whole bike just in front of the swing arm pivot.

When I got it in the air with no load on the rear wheel, I still had significant load on the lower shock bolt. If I removed that bolt, I would have had a difficult time getting it back on without a shock compression tool.

So I went with plan B and went ahead and took off the rear belt to replace the wheel.

The video shows the disc and hub being removed so I did that and took the wheel and new tire to a local tire shop. They replaced the tire but could not mount the wheel on their balancer. So now I am going to be a test candidate for Dynabeads.

Anyway, after a brainfart where I put the disc back on backwards, Nancystoy stated in another thread that it is not necessary to remove the disc and hub to change the wheel.

So after reassembly, the belt seems a bit tight. I don't have the right tools to adjust it. So I am left with a few questions for the wisdom of the forum.

1. What did I do wrong on the shock? I saw some post about different styles of spring, is it possible that Lamonster's technique won't work on my 2008 GS?

2. Do you guys normally take the tire to a motorcycle shop for mount and balance or should a car shop be able to do it?

3. What's the best way to handle DIY tension adjustment? Buy the tensioner kit, buy the tool from the manual, or buy some other tool?

Thanks for the help, slowly struggling my way to competent mechanic.

David
 
So I attempted to follow Lamonster's video on wheel removal where you did not have to re-tension the belt but it did not work out like I hoped.

I broke the axle nut and the lower shock nut free on the ground then lifted the whole bike just in front of the swing arm pivot.

When I got it in the air with no load on the rear wheel, I still had significant load on the lower shock bolt. If I removed that bolt, I would have had a difficult time getting it back on without a shock compression tool.

So I went with plan B and went ahead and took off the rear belt to replace the wheel.

The video shows the disc and hub being removed so I did that and took the wheel and new tire to a local tire shop. They replaced the tire but could not mount the wheel on their balancer. So now I am going to be a test candidate for Dynabeads.

Anyway, after a brainfart where I put the disc back on backwards, Nancystoy stated in another thread that it is not necessary to remove the disc and hub to change the wheel.

So after reassembly, the belt seems a bit tight. I don't have the right tools to adjust it. So I am left with a few questions for the wisdom of the forum.

1. What did I do wrong on the shock? I saw some post about different styles of spring, is it possible that Lamonster's technique won't work on my 2008 GS?

2. Do you guys normally take the tire to a motorcycle shop for mount and balance or should a car shop be able to do it?

3. What's the best way to handle DIY tension adjustment? Buy the tensioner kit, buy the tool from the manual, or buy some other tool?

Thanks for the help, slowly struggling my way to competent mechanic.

David

Changed tire on my wife's 08 GS today using Lamonster's technique. When I reattached the shock I slowly lowered the Spyder until the holes on the shock and the bracket were aligned No need for any compression tools.

I am using beads to balance both wheels of my V-Star 950 Tourer and they work good. However, I am going a different route on the Spyder. Other posts have discussed using Ride-On (see: http://www.ride-on.com/). It is both aa balancing compound and, if needed, a sealant. A bit more costly than beads (cost for rear tire about $30) but you have the protection if, heaven forbid you should ever pick up a nail. Available for oder on line but you might check the website like AI did and find a dealer near you.

Had no problem with belt tension so can't speak to that issue.

Hope this is some help.
 
I agree with Starrider about the shock, bolt, etc. After I changed the tire, I took it to my dealer and asked them to check the belt tension. They checked/adjusted it for free.
 
I use a bubble stand to balance my tire. I place a floorjack under the shock mount to lift the rear. It only has to clear the ground enough to remove the axle. IMHO the pulley should be removed and the rubbers inside the hub be cleaned and inspected. I've always had to retension the belt with any work done due too axle removal.
 
SHOCK

I have never took my shock lose.I jack it up just in front where the swing arm connects to the frame.When the rear wheel clears the ground i slide the belt off pulley pull wheel off.Just reverse going back on.I never touch belt adjusters so everything stays the same.
 
I think maybe the lightbulb went on, the shock maybe was in tension, not compression when I jacked it up all the way. That would explain what I saw and why it worked for everyone else.

Problem is I have that el cheapo harbor freight lift and it is very difficult to raise and lower the spyder by small amounts. I'll figure it out next time.

David
 
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