Adjusting Shock Preload on a Stock Spyder F3-T - Is Spring Compression Necessary?

[wvedec]

Hello,

I would like to reduce the preload on my stock F3-T shocks. I plan to jack up the front end to allow loosening of the two nuts at the bottom of the shock. I was wondering if that is all I need to do in order to use the shock spanner wrench to loosen the lock nut, lower the adjuster nut, and then lock the nuts tight together. Or, do I have to use a shock spring compressor to take the force off of the nuts so that they can be turned? If so, can you suggest a shock spring compression tool that would work with the F3-T shock springs?

Thanks. This forum is priceless!!

 

[Buckskin]

I see you're not getting much play here. I'm just the opposite, I have the spanner and want to add some preload to make the ride a bit firmer and rock solid. I don't think many here are thinking about making adjustments to the suspension. Yes, many are installing the high dollar shocks, but there is some play with the shocks that come on the bike and it doesn't hurt to back off that nut and make some adjustments and see how it rides then. I'm thinking you may want to go the other way and tighten up that preload.
Let me know how it goes.
Buckskin

Hello,

I would like to reduce the preload on my stock F3-T shocks. I plan to jack up the front end to allow loosening of the two nuts at the bottom of the shock. I was wondering if that is all I need to do in order to use the shock spanner wrench to loosen the lock nut, lower the adjuster nut, and then lock the nuts tight together. Or, do I have to use a shock spring compressor to take the force off of the nuts so that they can be turned? If so, can you suggest a shock spring compression tool that would work with the F3-T shock springs?

Thanks. This forum is priceless!!

 

[wvedec]

Thanks

I see you're not getting much play here. I'm just the opposite, I have the spanner and want to add some preload to make the ride a bit firmer and rock solid. I don't think many here are thinking about making adjustments to the suspension. Yes, many are installing the high dollar shocks, but there is some play with the shocks that come on the bike and it doesn't hurt to back off that nut and make some adjustments and see how it rides then. I'm thinking you may want to go the other way and tighten up that preload.
Let me know how it goes.
Buckskin

Thanks for your response. I have installed a BajaRon sway bar which has worked wonders for the handling of the F3-T. The ride seems a little stiffer, so I really would like to loosen up the preload a bit and see if I can get a somewhat softer ride.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

On pre 2013 models the shocks were adjustable and you even got a shock spanner in your tool kit. It could be adjusted with the Spyder on the ground but it was a lot easier if you lifted the wheel off the ground. Not sure why they didn't include a tool and want you to go to your dealer to adjust them now. I like a stiffer ride so I'm okay with mine as is. There was a BRP guy at the NorCal Rally and we heard that he had the tool with him but no one that I know was able to get him to adjust their shocks.

 

[jcthorne]

I will tell you the two that I have adjusted have been a bugger to get the lock nut loose. In both cases I ended up removing the shocks and compressing the spring and even then they were locked VERY tightly together. No idea why as its NOT needed. I suspect that's why the BRP rep was not all that interested in doing them at the rally.

 

[Samson]

The dealer couldn't get mine loose to adjust. The worked on the 2 nuts for about 45 minutes or more. They called BRP and were instructed to take the shocks off the bike and use a cold chisel and a beater to loosen the nuts. They said that if they damage the shock they would replace ( What about tearing up the nuts and scratches? ). I decided that I was going to replace sooner rather than later with Elkas so I decided to just order the Elka's and be done with it. Clearly the factory is tightening these nuts way to tight.

 

[Buckskin]

Ok, so I'm wondering how you got the dealer to go to that trouble to adjust the shocks? Seems it's a personal adjustment and like the one who started this thread he wants to loosen his for a soften the ride. Hadn't thought about using a cold chisel to break that lock nut loose. Seems one could do that on the bike (depending on where the nut is clocked on the shock). I did buy the correct spanner wrench on Amazon but when I tried to place it on the jam nut it was not in a good location to put some pull on it to break it loose. Will cold chisel it to see how it goes.
Buckskin

The dealer couldn't get mine loose to adjust. The worked on the 2 nuts for about 45 minutes or more. They called BRP and were instructed to take the shocks off the bike and use a cold chisel and a beater to loosen the nuts. They said that if they damage the shock they would replace ( What about tearing up the nuts and scratches? ). I decided that I was going to replace sooner rather than later with Elkas so I decided to just order the Elka's and be done with it. Clearly the factory is tightening these nuts way to tight.

 

[Tango]

My dealer contacted BRP after trying to adjust the shocks. BRP told them to remove the shocks, compress the springs. It was covered on a one time thing for warranty. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

THE PRE-LOAD THING

When you shorten the Spring ...either by putting in rubber wedges or any other type of compression device ( even BRP's pre-load collar. You will get improved handling in turns ( ie Twisties ) .... However this isn't without consequences..... Whenever you remove the length of the Spring like the methods above .... the Ride is going to suffer, you no longer have the cushion the OEM spring length gives ...... I went a different route - I changed the Angle of the Shock, this improves the handling aspect of the suspension .... But doesn't make the ride HARSHER ... a couple of *** techs drove my Spyder after seeing my shock angle change .... they were amazed at the Handling improvement , and commented that the OEM normal ride was still there ... NO HARSHNESS .... Sooooo this isn't just my opinion ( of which folks have challenged ) .. this was the opinion of EXPERTS ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[ofdave]

@Blueknight
very interesting solution
can you share how you changed the shock angle?
maybe a pic

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

HOW I DID IT ...

@Blueknight
very interesting solution
can you share how you changed the shock angle?
maybe a pic

I've posted the details in another post ( but I can't remember which one ) but in brief - First I set the normal ride height with blocks of wood .... took the bolt off the top of the shock .... I then arced it outward to a sensible maximum point ... made cardboard templates ... then sheet metal ones .... then out of 1/8th thick flat - bar stock .... It did take a lot of trial and error to get it Perfect ( nothing LESS is acceptable to Me ) BECAUSE ... mine LOCK into the OEM frame with ONE bolt + a spacer ( so you can't crush the frame )... it won't move UN-LESS you un-bolt it ( I like very close tolerances :bowdown .... hope this answers your question ............ Mike :thumbup: