A word of caution when removing (and raising) the driver's seat - 2020 Spyder RT

[WilcoJunoHotel]

I am in the process of installing heated seats to my base RT.

While removing the driver's seat I found that the attachment point where the support strut mounts to the seat was cracked and when I removed the strut the little mounting nib broke completely off the seat.

All that holds the seat to the strut is that small plastic nib molded into the seat hinge arm. It can be broken very easily just by trying to raise the seat too hard. I suspect that over time most will eventually break due to the constant stress on such a flimsy mounting point. This is not a good design. My Spyder has only 1500 miles on it.

I foresee a Lamonster fix for this in the future but for now be careful raising your seat and be extra careful when removing that support strut. If you break that nib off, the seat will not stay up because the support strut has no where to attach - a pita every time you gas up. You could probably attach it temporarily with a longer screw but a permanent fix will likely involve some type of shoulder screw that thru-bolts to the hinge arm. Or, I guess you could do what I used to do with my '81 Oldsmobile's trunk that had failed support struts - Use a sawed off broomstick to hold it up.

 

[MONK]

I think the 2020+ RT seat design was a great step forward from the previous generation HOWEVER the execution sucks. My drivers seat barely stays up on it's own and it's so flimsy, I have to lift up on the right side (where the locking pin is) to lift it up. If I lift up on the left side, it flexes too much to release. Both mounting tabs on the front of the passenger seat are intact but already slightly sprung. I think the only thing really keeping the passenger seat on is the drivers backrest.

None of this will cause me to give up my current RT and I'm hoping BuRP gets more concerned about quality control/execution on the next generation (which I expect around 2026 or so...just my guess). If BuRP continues to slack on quality control/execution, my next Can Am product may not be a Can Am.

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

I think the 2020+ RT seat design was a great step forward from the previous generation HOWEVER the execution sucks. My drivers seat barely stays up on it's own and it's so flimsy, I have to lift up on the right side (where the locking pin is) to lift it up. If I lift up on the left side, it flexes too much to release. Both mounting tabs on the front of the passenger seat are intact but already slightly sprung. I think the only thing really keeping the passenger seat on is the drivers backrest.

I like having the gas filler on the outside so that the seat doesn't even come into play. Then they could just make the seat like a typical motorcycle seat and not have to design in support struts. I am sure they considered this when designing the RT but it does seem like a poorly implemented characteristic for something that is used several times a ride.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I like having the gas filler on the outside so that the seat doesn't even come into play. Then they could just make the seat like a typical motorcycle seat and not have to design in support struts. I am sure they considered this when designing the RT but it does seem like a poorly implemented characteristic for something that is used several times a ride.

This has already been re-solved ..... just ADD a " Gas cap Door " to the side of the seat ..... lots of posts / threads on how it's done ..... As a Vendor I did dozens of RT's and GS / RS seats. ..... A billet aluminum door costs about $ 35 to $45.... If you decide to go that route PM me for more info ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I am in the process of installing heated seats to my base RT.

While removing the driver's seat I found that the attachment point where the support strut mounts to the seat was cracked and when I removed the strut the little mounting nib broke completely off the seat.

All that holds the seat to the strut is that small plastic nib molded into the seat hinge arm. It can be broken very easily just by trying to raise the seat too hard. I suspect that over time most will eventually break due to the constant stress on such a flimsy mounting point. This is not a good design. My Spyder has only 1500 miles on it.

I foresee a Lamonster fix for this in the future but for now be careful raising your seat and be extra careful when removing that support strut. If you break that nib off, the seat will not stay up because the support strut has no where to attach - a pita every time you gas up. You could probably attach it temporarily with a longer screw but a permanent fix will likely involve some type of shoulder screw that thru-bolts to the hinge arm. Or, I guess you could do what I used to do with my '81 Oldsmobile's trunk that had failed support struts - Use a sawed off broomstick to hold it up.

View attachment 186808

View attachment 186809

For a FIX .... I would use " JB weld " to secure a piece of a large nail onto the hole ..... good luck ...... For 14 RT I got rid of the OEM gas strut and replaced it with a small ridged strut that lays alongside the frame when not being used..... I foresaw the problem you are encountering .... plus my seat goes up three times higher, for easy access to things under the seat ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[MONK]

This has already been re-solved ..... just ADD a " Gas cap Door " to the side of the seat ..... lots of posts / threads on how it's done ..... As a Vendor I did dozens of RT's and GS / RS seats. ..... A billet aluminum door costs about $ 35 to $45.... If you decide to go that route PM me for more info ..... Mike :thumbup:

Not sure there's enough room on a 2020+ RT seat.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Not sure there's enough room on a 2020+ RT seat.

:agree: - my Bad :banghead:......... Mike :thumbup:....... I'm not familiar with the 2020 seat ..... I also used a much smaller door for GS/RS seats ( from a Yamaha crotch rocket ) that might fit the 2020 + seats

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

For a FIX .... I would use " JB weld " to secure a piece of a large nail onto the hole ..... good luck ...... For 14 RT I got rid of the OEM gas strut and replaced it with a small ridged strut that lays alongside the frame when not being used..... I foresaw the problem you are encountering .... plus my seat goes up three times higher, for easy access to things under the seat ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

I broke the nib off of the "old" non-heated seat and the nib is intact on the "new" heated seat that is going back on the bike so I am in good shape; My post was mostly a head's up to be careful with that seat.

When I get to the point of putting the "new" seat on, I will see how far the seat goes up without the strut attached and if it does go higher I may do something with a simple prop rod and just remove the strut. Something that attaches to the seat and swings down when the seat is lifted might work......

 

[MONK]

I also used a much smaller door for GS/RS seats ( from a Yamaha crotch rocket ) that might fit the 2020 + seats

Any add'l info, Mike?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Any add'l info, Mike?

I think it was from a Yamaha FJ 1100 ???? .... All crotch rockets that had / have a flip-up cover on top of the gas tank should work .... they did need the part that sealed the Cap to the Neck opening..... and then get a PermaCap II ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

So I got the new "heated seat" back on the bike and when I tried to use the same screw that held the strut rod to the seat, I quickly realized it was way too big. Hmmmm.

I got the old seat out and compared the 2 seats and lo and behold someone buggered up the old seat by using too large a screw. What they did was force a screw into that plastic nib which expanded the plastic so much it was "stuck" to the strut rod and it had to be forced off which ultimately broke the nib when I went to remove it.

Not sure how this happened or where. I bought the bike brand new from an authorized dealer so either the dealer did this or BRP. Can't imagine why a dealer would need to work on a seat for a new bike.

Here is a picture of the proper screw size and the actual screw size that was used on the old seat (smaller screw is the right size) - they are not remotely close in size.

 

[MONK]

So I got the new "heated seat" back on the bike and when I tried to use the same screw that held the strut rod to the seat, I quickly realized it was way too big. Hmmmm.

I got the old seat out and compared the 2 seats and lo and behold someone buggered up the old seat by using too large a screw. What they did was force a screw into that plastic nib which expanded the plastic so much it was "stuck" to the strut rod and it had to be forced off which ultimately broke the nib when I went to remove it.

Not sure how this happened or where. I bought the bike brand new from an authorized dealer so either the dealer did this or BRP. Can't imagine why a dealer would need to work on a seat for a new bike.

Here is a picture of the proper screw size and the actual screw size that was used on the old seat (smaller screw is the right size) - they are not remotely close in size.

View attachment 187000

That's crazy. The top screw is the one that's stock and what is on my 2021 RT. I'd call the selling dealer ASAP. Doesn't matter if it happened @ the dealer or during manufacturing. They need to 1) replace the seat and 2) ensure you have the correct screw. Doesn't matter if you plan on reusing the seat or not.

I'll go out this weekend to see if the drivers seat will stay up on it's own w/o the gas strut. (I have a backrest so I'm not sure if that will get in the way.) If it does stay up on it's own, I think I'll remove that screw. Sounds like it wasn't the fault of the seat as much as it was the bigger screw but I'm not seeing any reason to take a chance.

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Lucky I had the smaller screw I guess - it is a screw that I had from one of my previous motorcycles that held a tupperware piece in place.

I may contact the dealer or I may decide to fix it myself by drilling through the hinge and just use a thru bolt which will be much sturdier. I have been riding with the new seat and I may wind up using that seat for summer riding anyway because the gel insert that I put in the heated seat is HOT without any heat element being turned on. Also, the gel pad adds weight and the seat strut doesn't want to stay up now. Not sure what I will wind up doing. I may even go with the comfort heated seat at some point and sell these........Gotta have something to play around with especially now that it is cold.

 

[vario]

I dont know who i trust less, the dealer or BRP. When i got my 21 F3L, i put a tank bra on to stop the marks where you sit. When i took off the rear seat to access taking off the front, the front seat screws or hardware were not even installed on the bike. The seat was just in position with the front arms holding it there. I have since put in the hardware to keep the seat from moving around. But after watching all the "build" videos of these things, the seats are installed at the factory i believe.

 

[MONK]

But after watching all the "build" videos of these things, the seats are installed at the factory i believe.

They are. When I picked up my '21 RT, I was able to visit w/the assembler for a bit. He showed me a brand new RT (base) that was still on the shipping pallet. He hadn't touched it yet other than to remove the wrapping on the crate/pallet. Basically, it was all assembled other than the rear tupperware (and trunk on a Limited model). I snapped a pic. I don't think the front shocks are hooked up and the front fenders aren't attached.

 

[milryder]

I'm looking at installing the OEM Can Am driver backrest to my 2021 RT. Does the seat have to come off? If so, are there directions somewhere, my search failed, most directions are for pre 2020 models? Would also consider the Lamonster but I like the finish look of the OEM. Is there much difference in install between the two and how involved does it get? I don't see how the seat comes off if I need to.

 

[RayBJ]

I'm looking at installing the OEM Can Am driver backrest to my 2021 RT. Does the seat have to come off? If so, are there directions somewhere, my search failed, most directions are for pre 2020 models? Would also consider the Lamonster but I like the finish look of the OEM. Is there much difference in install between the two and how involved does it get? I don't see how the seat comes off if I need to.

Yes. Need to raise front seat and remove rear seat to access the mounting point. The rear seat has 2 hard to reach tabs under the back of the front seat. Shine a light in to see where they are. Press them towards rear and lift the front of the rear seat to clear the tabs. Lower the front seat to finish lifting the rear seat up and off (2 tabs in back of rear).

 

[MONK]

I'm looking at installing the OEM Can Am driver backrest to my 2021 RT. Does the seat have to come off? If so, are there directions somewhere, my search failed, most directions are for pre 2020 models? Would also consider the Lamonster but I like the finish look of the OEM. Is there much difference in install between the two and how involved does it get? I don't see how the seat comes off if I need to.

The REAR seat has to come off. Lift the drivers seat, push back the (2) tabs to unlatch the passenger seat (or in my case, just pull the passenger seat up). Once the front of the passenger seat is up, you can pull it forward to release it from the bike. If you have heated seats, unplug the electrical connector. I think the backrest mount slides into/bolted to a piece in the middle of the bike. Once that's in place, put everything back together and slide the backrest down into the slot in the passenger seat making sure to catch the pins/bolts in the backrest base. I have a Utopia backrest and that's the process for that. I'm sure the OEM backrest is similar or the same.

 

[RayBJ]

"I think the backrest mount slides into/bolted to a piece in the middle of the bike."
You need to loosen a couple of screws to slip the bracket between the plastic & metal frame.

 

[MONK]

"I think the backrest mount slides into/bolted to a piece in the middle of the bike."
You need to loosen a couple of screws to slip the bracket between the plastic & metal frame.

Good catch. I forgot about that. 13mm socket.