28k miles service

[dbaucum]

I have a 2015 RTL with 27k miles. According to the manual there is a 28k miles service. The dealer quoted $2k to do the full service and $1k to do the HCM oil filter, canister pre filter, fuel filter, air filter and coolant. He said the front clip will have to be removed to do the coolant. His quote
"Gone are the days of removing an 8mm hex head and draining the coolant at at the water pump, there is nothing easy on these spyders." And don't suggest I do it myself; too old to do that kind of work now.
What have you guys done and how much do you think is necessary?
Thanks for your input.

 

[Navydad]

I did the engine oil and filter, the HCM filter, and the air filter. My coolant tested fine so it didn't get replaced. I didn't do the fuel filter, but probably will this winter when I do a brake fluid flush. I have the luxury of still being able to do my own work. My 2015 has 33,000 miles on it and runs like a champ. Parts through a dealership are not cheap and labor isn't either. $2K sounds excessive, but I can see it.

 

[RICZ]

And don't suggest I do it myself; too old to do that kind of work now.
What have you guys done and how much do you think is necessary?

I'm 84 and do not trust other guys with tools and my things, so I do my own maintenance. The HCM filter is so easy, even my 10 year old great grandson can do it. I'm teaching him mechanics and he removed the cat and installed the delete. RTs are more time consuming due to the acres of Tupperware that needs to be removed, but those filter changes are not brain surgery - at least to me.

 

[trikermutha]

All you do is remove the lower radiator hose to drain it.

The more time consuming is the HCM and Gas filter.

Pre canister is behind the left saddlebag mounted on the frame. Most likely will not need replacing but could be checked. Mine looked like new when I replaced mine.

Air filter is on the left side and more plastic to remove.

 

[JayBros]

Trikermutha is correct about draining the cooling system; you just remove the lower right radiator hose. The frunk does not need to be removed.

 

[spyderwing57]

I just did my 2015 RT 28,000 mile maintenance also. Removing and replacing the necessary Tupperware is the biggest part of the job.

 

[JayBros]

Yeah, it's a PITA to have to remove the left top side and rear panels just to get to the emissions pre-filter; takes longer to remove and reinstall the Tupperware than to change the filter.

 

[PatrickH]

Hello TrikerMutha,
I'm at the dread 28k point with my 2014 RT and am determined to do my own maintenance for this milestone. First question is "what in the world is a pre-canister?" Is it some sort of filter? Or one of those gas tank fume traps? When I get to it, how do I know whether it needs to be replaced? What am I looking for?
Regards, Patrick H.

 

[P.W.]

Hello TrikerMutha,
I'm at the dread 28k point with my 2014 RT and am determined to do my own maintenance for this milestone. First question is "what in the world is a pre-canister?" Is it some sort of filter? Or one of those gas tank fume traps? When I get to it, how do I know whether it needs to be replaced? What am I looking for?
Regards, Patrick H.

I'm interested in this answer as well.

P.W.

 

[ulflyer]

Don't think I've ever changed a gas filter on any vehicle. Doubtful I will ever reach 28K, but it would get the oil/filter, air filter, and call it a day.

 

[trikermutha]

Hello TrikerMutha,
I'm at the dread 28k point with my 2014 RT and am determined to do my own maintenance for this milestone. First question is "what in the world is a pre-canister?" Is it some sort of filter? Or one of those gas tank fume traps? When I get to it, how do I know whether it needs to be replaced? What am I looking for?
Regards, Patrick H.

I believe it is to trap the gas fumes. Look under your left side bag all it is a cheap black filter in a plastic housing. Your could replace it or just inspect it and if it looks good wait for the next change. You will have to jack up the bike a bit to get to it. I didn't remove any Tupper ware to do it.
Its mounted to the left side rear frame

 

[JayBros]

I've done my canister pre-filter twice, at 28 and 56K. Trust me, it is no problem removing the Tupperware. As you sit on the Spyder the pre-filter is on the outside of the frame, about where your left butt cheek is. If you are concerned about panel removal, take pictures before you remove anything, and if you're concerned about putting the correct length screws back in the proper place the only one you have to be certain about is the most rearward one on the rear side panel, #3 in the top picture on pg 48 of your operator's guide. It's the shortest one. You are going to have to remove the right rear side panel to change the fuel filter and the same applies.

 

[PatrickH]

Thank you TrikerMutha and thank you JayBros. Good scoop.

 

[PatrickH]

JayBros,
I too earned the right to display the EGA as you do. Some of the "earning" was in engineer school at CourtHouse Bay, near you. Semper Fi, Patrick

 

[bikerchris1270]

Inhale

Hello TrikerMutha,
I'm at the dread 28k point with my 2014 RT and am determined to do my own maintenance for this milestone. First question is "what in the world is a pre-canister?" Is it some sort of filter? Or one of those gas tank fume traps? When I get to it, how do I know whether it needs to be replaced? What am I looking for?
Regards, Patrick H.

Evap filter is used to filter clean air via Charcoal Canister from which fuel vapors from fuel tank are drawn into the engine to burned. Instead of fuel vapors being expelled into the atmosphere,they are absorbed by the media in the evap canister.
How do you know when to replace? .......inexpensive, preventive maintenance.

 

[PatrickH]

Hello BikerChris, but is the pre-canister an evap filter? Or is the evap filter yet an additional part that has to be inspected and/or replaced?

 

[KX5062]

The pre canister that sits to the rear of the bike that people are referring to is just an vent air filter in a square plastic housing. The book says to replace it, but in reality it can be opened up (by way of screws) and cleaned and reinstalled for no cost. When I replaced mine on my 2014 at the 28k servicing I spent a couple of minutes opening it up and found it was very dirty. I had already bought a replacement before I looked at it, not thinking it was serviceable. It is. (Unless BRP has changed it over the years.)

 

[JayBros]

My pre-filter at 28K was a little rusty inside when I inspected it so I replaced. Planning for the same appearance at 56K I bought a new filter, installed it and inspected the old one that I brushed off and could have used again but chucked it. I don't mind the minor expense.

 

[trikermutha]

If you open it up its a small square filter. If it not deteriorating blow it out and reuse it. If not replace it and you are good till the next 28k. Maintenance.

 

[bikerchris1270]

Hello BikerChris, but is the pre-canister an evap filter? Or is the evap filter yet an additional part that has to be inspected and/or replaced?

It’s separate....go to can am parts.....look up part for yourSpyder.