PW2013STL
Active member
Did an oil and filter change on my 2020 RT at 54,000 miles. Eveyting going well, then checked the air filter only to have the internal lock ring come off with the filter. I have found the best way to get that to lock onto the flexible tube behind it is to remove the air filter housing and flexible tube and attache them out side of the Spyder. Then carefully slide them in and then attache the flexible tube to the other flexible tube.
Of course you have to remove the left side three panels, both mirrors, both headlight covers, center cover, Both headlights, 4 bolts on the left side frame( for lifting top frame up to provide clearance for removing the air filter housing, ECM so you can loosen the bolt on the bottom support bracket, and then the 1 bolt on the filter housing.
After doing that and assembling everything back I went to start my Spyder and it would turn over, but not start. Tried WOT and no start, I could then smell fuel so I knew it wasn't lack of fuel.
I knew it wasn't the kill switch since it was turning over. I called it a day.
Today I went thru all the fuses and tested them. All tested fine. I decided to take everything apart that I worked on to see if somehow I pulled apart a electiral connection. I found nothing out of place. Decided I would have to have it taken to a dealer to find out what happened.
After assembling everything back together. I was lowering it off the stand and I thought - is it in N?
It wasn't - tried rocking it, and then pushing it back and forward while pushing on the gear button. The Spyder moved easily so I knew it was in N even though the dash showed 1.No luck - so I set the parking brake and tried starting. It took two tries, but on the second try I saw the dash change from 1 to N and it started.
I wish I had thought of that before spending 2 1/2 hours checking everything else!
First time that I had that happen in the 9 years of owning Spyders, but now I know to check for that if it happens again.
Of course you have to remove the left side three panels, both mirrors, both headlight covers, center cover, Both headlights, 4 bolts on the left side frame( for lifting top frame up to provide clearance for removing the air filter housing, ECM so you can loosen the bolt on the bottom support bracket, and then the 1 bolt on the filter housing.
After doing that and assembling everything back I went to start my Spyder and it would turn over, but not start. Tried WOT and no start, I could then smell fuel so I knew it wasn't lack of fuel.
I knew it wasn't the kill switch since it was turning over. I called it a day.
Today I went thru all the fuses and tested them. All tested fine. I decided to take everything apart that I worked on to see if somehow I pulled apart a electiral connection. I found nothing out of place. Decided I would have to have it taken to a dealer to find out what happened.
After assembling everything back together. I was lowering it off the stand and I thought - is it in N?
It wasn't - tried rocking it, and then pushing it back and forward while pushing on the gear button. The Spyder moved easily so I knew it was in N even though the dash showed 1.No luck - so I set the parking brake and tried starting. It took two tries, but on the second try I saw the dash change from 1 to N and it started.
I wish I had thought of that before spending 2 1/2 hours checking everything else!
First time that I had that happen in the 9 years of owning Spyders, but now I know to check for that if it happens again.
It sounds like you forgot that the clutch only works with oil pressure; so if the engine's not running, there's no oil pressure, which means the clutch isn't engaged between the trans & engine, and that means that even tho the trans is still in gear, if the engine is off then the Spyder will roll/move easily!! 
It's just like holding the clutch lever in on a manual - the clutch then isn't locking the engine & trans together, so even tho it's still in gear, it'll roll!! 
pps: 
