I have a little over 12k miles on my bike and recently I had noticed that my cruise control would randomly kick out. This morning on my way into work it did the same thing and then it just quit working. When I would press Set the indicator would go green and then back to grey. After a few times of trying it quit working altogether. I have installed a Safe-turn Smart brake system and I am wondering if it might be interfering with the cruise by sending a back feed thru the brake light circuit. I am going to disconnect that system before I head home today to see if that makes a difference. I am wondering if anyone else has had a similar situation?
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2016 F3L Cruise control issues
- Thread starter Sleeve66
- Start date
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
I suspect something to do with the install of the accessory. Any brake action is supposed to disconnect the CC but not shut it all the way off though.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
After reading ...other answers ..... my question is ..... did this problem occur immed. or soon after the access. install ..... ???? .... Mike
hyea:I have had my smart brake module installed for about 6 months now. I noticed the other day when I finished parking my brake lights were still flashing. After work and before I drove home I disconnected the ground to the module and the cruise control started working again. I am going to reach out to the brake module manufacturer and see if they have had this issue before. If not and they don't have a fix for it, I will build a circuit that will isolate anything from back feeding the brake light circuit to the cruise control.
It might just be that the spring that's meant to return the pedal &/or associated brake light switch to the fully off position has just become a little weak over time - this was a common problem a while back, altho not seen quite so often in recent months.... 
But still, if that spring isn't pulling back quite as hard as it once did, your brake lights will probably stay on longer than they once did, and that'll have nothing to do with the module or even the micro-switch.... it's just a tired spring!
Check out the info on the pic below - that's a pic of the spring many here have used as a 'helper' for their 'tired brake return springs'. :thumbup:
But still, if that spring isn't pulling back quite as hard as it once did, your brake lights will probably stay on longer than they once did, and that'll have nothing to do with the module or even the micro-switch.... it's just a tired spring!
Check out the info on the pic below - that's a pic of the spring many here have used as a 'helper' for their 'tired brake return springs'. :thumbup:
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IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
If the brake light wiring is like that on the RT, and I don't know why it wouldn't be, a wire connects to the brake light circuit between the brake light switch and the brake lights. That wire goes to the ECM and provides the signal to cancel the CC and who knows what else. Your module activates the brake lights, right? That means the module is feeding current into the ECM making it think you have stepped on the brake. The only way to prevent the back feed is to put a diode into the bike wire going to the brake lights and connect your module between it and the brake lights.
Also, as others have said, don't discount the possibility the brake light switch isn't working properly.
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