2013 Can Am Spyder RT-S Battery Issues?

[Dr Bonz]

My Spyder was in the garage all winter and I unfortunately didn't have a battery tender on it. I took it out this weekend and the battery was dead. No matter how much charging or jumping I tried I couldn't even get it to turn over at all. Just a lot of clicking.

I therefore purchased a brand new battery and installed it. When I go to start it now, I get about two cranks (about 1 seconds worth) then back to the clicking. After I do this it looks like the oil light is staying lit too.

I might add that with the old battery I didn't even get the lights on the dash to light except when I JUST took it off the charger and that was only for a few seconds. Then nothing. So it appears that this battery is OK as all the electronics seem to work.

I have posted a video of this. Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Ed

 

[Peter Aawen]

The vid is Private, so no-one but you can see it.... :dontknow:


Still, a bit of 'thinking out loud' here - even without the vid, I'd be checking all the connections on your new battery AND the Earth's on the Spyder, and if they are all good, check your new battery too!! New batteries can fail &/or just not be strong enough for the task - what brand & capacity is the new battery?? Anything less than a fully charged 310cca might not cut it! :banghead:

Have you tried a Battery Booster or Jump start, leaving the booster/jump connected for a while before cranking, not just connecting up & cranking immediately?? And have you checked resting battery voltage, cranking battery voltage, & if you get that far, running battery voltage?? That info, &/or the results of a proper battery load test would help any 'diagnosis by remote'.

Over to you! :thumbup:

 

[Bfromla]

Oil light on normal until up & running. (Up to pressure) possibly just loose connections terminals need good surface area contact for amperage. & Battery may need recharge after previous test

 

[JayBros]

The video is marked unavailable, private.

You do not say what kind of new battery you purchased, whether or not it was a factory fill or bottle supplied. If the former, you do not say what the initial voltage reading was and whether or not the instructions state to charge it if below a certain voltage. If the latter, you should explain how you filled and charged it. Are the positive and negative cables completely clean of any corrosion and good and tight? What is the voltage of the new battery as read by a multimeter? The new battery can have enough voltage to light up the electronics but not enough to crank the engine. The oil pressure light will remain on until the engine is running and the oil pressure has risen enough to extinguish the light.

 

[Dr Bonz]

The video is now public. Sorry about that pps:

All connections are tight and there is no corrosion on the terminals (obviously since it is new) nor on the cables.

This is the battery I bought. It is supposedly factory charged and ready to use when installed.

I connected a meter to the battery with the key out and it read about 10.6. I took another reading with the key in the ignition and turned on and it read 9.4. I tried to start it with by battery booster/starter and it did the same thing. Barely cranked and then the clicks.

I have it on the charger now.

Item specifics
Condition: New Battery Size: Sealed Lead Acid 12-Volt
Compatible Brand: AJC Brand: AJC
Chemical Composition: Lead Acid Type: Battery
Amp Hours: 23 Ah Model: AJC Brand Replacement Batteries
Application: Motorcycle Compatible Model: Spyder RT-S (SM5)
Product Type: Motorcycle Battery Type: SLA/VRLA
Voltage: 12 V MPN: Spyder RT-S (SM5)
Voltage Compatibility: 12 V UPC: 688624209186
AJC® replacement compatible with Can-Am Spyder RT-S (SM5) 1000CC Motorcycle Battery (2012-2013)
Factory activated, this battery arrives fully sealed, charged and ready for action
Maintenance free AGM technology, no need to add acid or water ever
Exact OEM replacement guaranteed to fit easily and precisely
High impact PP case for maximum vibration resistance
AJC® Replacement Powersports Batteries
You must re-use: your existing cabling and hardware. These are replacement batteries only
It is your responsibility to verify the batteries being ordered match the batteries in your unit prior to placing your order. We are not responsible for incorrect orders
Buy with confidence. Our batteries are backed by easy 30-day returns and a 12-month warranty
Built to handle whatever the road, dirt, snow and water can dish out
Disclaimer: Our products are not affiliated with or authorized by Can-Am.
Specs
Voltage: 12V
Capacity: 23Ah
Cold Cranking Amps: 350
Polarity: -/+
Terminal: I
Dimensions: L 8.07 x W3.5 x H 6.46 inches
Weight: 15.37 lbs

 

[RICZ]

Never assume a new battery is fully charged. I always place a new battery on an automatic trickle charger overnight before installing. Did you?

 

[pegasus1300]

I can tell you right now from the specs you posted about your battery keyoff/keyon it has nowhere near enough juice to crank a VTwin over. You need at least 11 volts key on to start. So charge that battery for awhile (like over night) and try it tomorrow. Good luck.

 

[Dr Bonz]

Will do. Charging now. I'll check in tomorrow. Thanks everyone.

 

[Dr Bonz]

She fired right up after an overnight charge. Thanks for the input everyone. I appreciate it!

 

[davev1pa]

Just put in a new Duracell AGM from Batteries Plus ....2 yr warranty on my 2012 RTL...with rebates and core refund 116$ ...here's what I found on my one year old Motobatt that was installed by an un named powersports center

The battery compartment was cracked on install march 2020....it's no wonder I've had issues despite having been on a tender every resting moment since install...well I'm positive my install did not not damage the new battery....

 

[pegasus1300]

She fired right up after an overnight charge. Thanks for the input everyone. I appreciate it!

thanks for letting us know. Ride on Brother.