2012 RS SE5 Cluster won't light up, bike starts, won't move!?

[Supaholaya]

Hello guys new here and new spyder owner I recently bought a 2012 rs se5. Rode bike around the neighborhood and vss popped up bike went into limp mode pulled over and tried to restart but bike was stuck in first gear and wouldn't start googled and figured out I could reach under and shift manually that worked and got me home. So that worked for a day or so thought I would be ok until I could get to my appt at the local shop (all of them have 3 to 4 week waits) went out that night my tail lights went out bought fuse next morning tried to start bike and dash won't light up bike starts but won't go into gear and dash won't light up headlights work. Please help im lost
Tried fiddling with fuses none are bad replaced relay above fuse I pulled
Sorry for the long post just wanted to be as descriptive

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hello guys new here and new spyder owner I recently bought a 2012 rs se5. Rode bike around the neighborhood and vss popped up bike went into limp mode pulled over and tried to restart but bike was stuck in first gear and wouldn't start googled and figured out I could reach under and shift manually that worked and got me home. So that worked for a day or so thought I would be ok until I could get to my appt at the local shop (all of them have 3 to 4 week waits) went out that night my tail lights went out bought fuse next morning tried to start bike and dash won't light up bike starts but won't go into gear and dash won't light up headlights work. Please help im lost
Tried fiddling with fuses none are bad replaced relay above fuse I pulled
Sorry for the long post just wanted to be as descriptive

My first thought is Battery ..... it takes a lot of juice to start the Spyder, but only a little to keep it running ..... Your Spyder DOESN'T have an alternator ... it has a Magneto system, which doesn't start to re-charge the Battery until about 3500 rpm .... If you don't drive at that RPM or higher, the Battery isn't getting juice isn't getting re-placed ..... make sure you Battr. connections are tight ( I advise adding STAR washers to the terminals, they won't ever loosen by themselves ) ..... When I bought my 2014 RT SE ( it has an alternator ) the brand new batt. failed on my way home. It had stalled in gear and the Batt. wouldn't put it into neutral so it would start .... a kind person gave me a jump from His car battery, and the spyder started immed. ..... I usually put it in Neutral before I shut it off. ..... and I always remove the key when it's parked ( this will allow the computer to re-boot ) ..... and ( you may already know this ) you must step on the brake to go into gear ....... have the battery LOAD tested ..... keep us posted .....good luck .... Mike :thumbup: annnnnnnnnnnnd :congrats: & :welcome:

 

[billybovine]

First. Your Spyder will start in any gear. If it is in gear for safety reasons the brake must be applied or the starter will not operate. After the engine starts it will shift to neutral on it's own. There should be no need to manually put it into neutral to start, unless there is something wrong with the brake lights.

As for your other issues it looks like a fuse or 2 are blown and the shorts need to be tracked down. Nothing in what you describe points to a bad battery or charging system. A common place for a short is the licence plate light. The harness under the fender comes loose and the tire chews it up. Maybe look there. That will cause some of the symtoms you describe.

 

[ARtraveler]

Start with the battery suggestions.

:welcome: and :congrats: on your new ryde. :firstplace:

 

[Supaholaya]

Thanks I'll grab a battery and see what happened

 

[Mikey]

good idea, and get some star washers also!! Good luck, let us know what happen!!!

 

[Supaholaya]

Fixed it guys it was a meat head mistake put relay in wrong slot

 

[Mikey]

Fixed it guys it was a meat head mistake put relay in wrong slot

Glad you found it!!!:cheers: