Sidvicious
New member
I’m in the market for a Can Am Spyder RT Limited and would like to know some ballpark figures on them. Also what are the major differences between a 2014 vs a 2012 RT Limited. Thanks in advance and safe riding to all!
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2012 Can Am Spyder RT Limited
- Thread starter Sidvicious
- Start date
The biggest is difference the engine the 2012 has a two cylinder 998 with 5 speed transmission and the 2014 has a 1330, 3 cylinder with 6 speed transmission. The 998 will get about 32 miles per gallon and the 1330 will get about 40 mile per gallon. Oh and less maintenance on the with oil changes etc. with the 2014 also. You should look at KBB motorcycle values to see what the different years are worth.
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ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
:welcome: :congrats: on your first post. :bowdown:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
It boils down to the typ of motorcycles you prefer ... Gold Wing , BMW cruiser or Crotch Rocket .... the 1330 ( 2014 ) is Low revs high torque .. Vs. 998 High revs low torque ..... good luck ... PS - BRP stopped using the 998 V-twin 5 years ago. They did it for a reason ..... Mike :thumbup:
Piratezz
Member
Again I totally agree with Mike, the 1330 engine, loves to rev, but also can be driven at cruisin speeds, For me, I drove the 998 engine, and it was not for me, as I am more laidback and have no need for hig revs, and almost no torque.
Also me thinks, as they discontinued, the 998 engine, parts will be scarse, at some point.
Also for me the semi-automatic, is the best, but that is my opinion, just drive an rt, and see what you like, pricewise, to answer your question, If it has low miles, or alot of farkles, or a good maintenance history, these all need to be factored in.
Now it ins't the right time to buy a spyder, as we are mid season, at the end of ryding season, they will come up, a bit cheaper, same as with convertibles, they are hot in summer, not so in wintertime.
My two cent's, for what it's worth
Also me thinks, as they discontinued, the 998 engine, parts will be scarse, at some point.
Also for me the semi-automatic, is the best, but that is my opinion, just drive an rt, and see what you like, pricewise, to answer your question, If it has low miles, or alot of farkles, or a good maintenance history, these all need to be factored in.
Now it ins't the right time to buy a spyder, as we are mid season, at the end of ryding season, they will come up, a bit cheaper, same as with convertibles, they are hot in summer, not so in wintertime.
My two cent's, for what it's worth
Mikey
Well-known member
:agree: With all the guys above, and I have one!!!:lecturef_smilie: But if the 2012 is in your price range, then by all means get it!! Yes the 998 come's with it's issues, but the 2012 for it's year was one of the better ones to pick, they had fixed a lot of gremlins! The power isn't that bad, yes it likes to be turned up, but it will do a nice slow cruse down the back roads also! Would I like the newer style platform heck yes, would I like to choke out the guy that design this bike heck yes, but you know it's still a good ride, and my wife and I love it!!! The 2014 is going to be the same bike exsept for the engine, that is something BRP's good for not changing anymore than they have to!!! They drag good and bad things threw from one year to the next, even when they know they have a turd out there!! Myself I would love to have a new body style f, or rt, but my pocket can not find it yet!!!:2thumbs: Good luck, go for it,, you know you want to!!!
Sidvicious
New member
Thanks for all the input everyone. I’ve got some decisions to make and the price difference is anywhere from 2-5k between the models I’m currently looking at. Will decide if the price difference is justifiable. Thank you!
The V twin has a maintenance requirement of checking the valve clearance every once in a while and it costs a bundle if done at the dealer. Why does it cost a bundle??? Because it is a lot of work. More work if adjustment is required. There are videos on the net.
The 1330 has hydraulic lifters and doesn't need this work.
The 1330 has hydraulic lifters and doesn't need this work.
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
RE: Valve check maintenance. Do NOT do it unless you are actually having issues with it. Thanks to a few of us "beta testers," it is now the consensus of opinion of many of us "old timers."
It will cost you $1500 by the time it is completed. BRP recommended it at 14K intervals. I foolishly paid for two of them. One at 14K on one bike, one at 28K on the second bike. In both cases, no adjustments were needed. The second one, they forget to replace a gasket and had to do it over because of leaking oil. That was on their dime.
I had my mind made up that I would not even consider it until at least 50K. I traded off at 45K so have no clue if the new owners did it.
It has also come to light that some dealers were using it to make extra profit. Based on the no adjustments needed, they charged some people and did nothing. Caveat Emptor!!
From 2014 on, with the advent of the 1330 three cylinder, no further valve check maintenance is required.
It will cost you $1500 by the time it is completed. BRP recommended it at 14K intervals. I foolishly paid for two of them. One at 14K on one bike, one at 28K on the second bike. In both cases, no adjustments were needed. The second one, they forget to replace a gasket and had to do it over because of leaking oil. That was on their dime.
I had my mind made up that I would not even consider it until at least 50K. I traded off at 45K so have no clue if the new owners did it.
It has also come to light that some dealers were using it to make extra profit. Based on the no adjustments needed, they charged some people and did nothing. Caveat Emptor!!
From 2014 on, with the advent of the 1330 three cylinder, no further valve check maintenance is required.
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Sidvicious
New member
That makes the decision to go into a 2014 more viable, the cost of that adjustment is quite pricey to say the least. Leaning towards a 2014 and up now.
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