2011 RT SM5 parking brake failure

[SpyderGreg]

So, this morning I fire up the silver ghost, hit the parking brake switch - and up comes an orange screen that says parking brake failure. Sure enough, there is none of the usual movement of the brake pedal that I normally get when i engage the parking brake. Now this is not a 'no ride' situation as I can always leave it in gear to prevent it rolling, but I hate that sort of thing. OK what to do now? I've never even taken the panels off this thing ! But I have restored my 95 wing so I'm not afraid of a wrench. Any videos that could help?

TIA

 

[safecracker]

It is likely the cable came undone on the wheel up front by the motor that controls the parking brake. Or it could be the acuator on the switch. You will need to pull off the right side tupperware. My cable came off once. It was not common, but model years 2010 to 2012 did have this happen. Hope it is something simple. Does your wndshield still work? If not you may have blown a fuse. Windshield motor and parking brake motor use the same fuse. Bruce

 

[SpyderGreg]

I believe you're correct. I can hear the motor running when I push the park switch - so all is well up to that point, so I guess I'll take off the plastic and see why the cable slipped off. Is there a mod to fix this that you know of?

 

[SpyderGreg]

So I got the plastic off, and yup, the cable had disconnected from the pulley. Looks to me like the pulley is out of position in that the grove for the end of the cable is too far to the rear when the parking brake motor is in the release condition. This allows all the tension on the cable to be released and it pops right off. Is there a way to actually change the position of the pulley so that it keeps aq little tension on the cable and the slot for the end of the pulley is still facing towards the front of the bike when in the released position? Is the pulley held onto the motor shaft via a keyway or something? Can the nut that holds it to the shaft be loosened and the pulley rotated to provide the tension needed? I don't want to break anything!

Thanks

 

[davev1pa]

Is there any lubrication I should apply to any of the parking brake apparatus/cables? I noticed it had a rare moment that it didn't engage. Not a problem yet but like to stay ahead of it.

 

[JimV]

I’m having the same issue with my 2012.
Have not removed the panels to look (it’s cold here).
What was the fix? Tnx

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

So I got the plastic off, and yup, the cable had disconnected from the pulley. Looks to me like the pulley is out of position in that the grove for the end of the cable is too far to the rear when the parking brake motor is in the release condition. This allows all the tension on the cable to be released and it pops right off. Is there a way to actually change the position of the pulley so that it keeps aq little tension on the cable and the slot for the end of the pulley is still facing towards the front of the bike when in the released position? Is the pulley held onto the motor shaft via a keyway or something? Can the nut that holds it to the shaft be loosened and the pulley rotated to provide the tension needed? I don't want to break anything!

Thanks

I’m having the same issue with my 2012.
Have not removed the panels to look (it’s cold here).
What was the fix? Tnx

For Greg and Jim and anybody else, I suppose. The problem is not with the front pulley. Look closely. When the parking brake is disengaged, the front pulley will always rotate CCW until the tab actuates the micro-switch. You can't change that by repositioning the pulley. It will always stop at the same position. This problem is corrected by a simple adjustment in the rear.

Big picture - there's a spring coiled up behind the rear pulley. But the rear pulley only turns so far CCW until it hits it's backstop. So, if it stops turning before the front pulley is finished turning, you'll get that big bow in the cable at the front pulley and it can pop off. Look at where the cable is mounted on the rear caliper bracket. There are two nuts there that adjust the cable just like on a bicycle. Pull the side panels off and then, with the parking brake disengaged, adjust the cable until the bow is removed from the cable and it is tight. But wait, you're not done yet, turn the nut just another turn or two until the rear pulley just starts to turn CW. What you've done now is ensure that there will always be spring tension on the cable keeping it from bowing and popping off.

Now just test it. With the parking brake disengaged, you should still easily push it around the floor by hand. Engage the parking brake. The front pulley turns CW, the cable pulls the rear pulley CW and the brake engages. When everything gets tight, the motor turns off keeping the parking brake engaged. Disengage the parking brake. The front pulley turns CCW until the tab actuates the micro-switch. The spring on the rear pulley unwinds turning the rear pulley CCW and keeping the cable tight the entire time. There should be spring tension left on the cable when the front pulley stops.

Congratulations - you've just adjusted your parking brake cable. Take the opportunity to give the area a general cleaning. You can put some lube of your choice on the parking brake motor and pulley gears if you want. Some dry silicone lube on the cable won't hurt.

 

[z06dubbs]

Attempted this adjustment but my cable does not go back into casing and causes it to pop out on the front? Could it be a faulty cable or worn out tension spring in the rear?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Attempted this adjustment but my cable does not go back into casing and causes it to pop out on the front? Could it be a faulty cable or worn out tension spring in the rear?

On a cable such as this, in order to increase the tension, what the adjustment does is to lengthen the outer sheath. If your cable is getting looser in the front instead of tighter, then make your adjustment in the opposite direction. You should be moving the two nuts out towards the end. If you are certain you are going the right way but you run out of adjustment, you’ll just need to reset the rear pulley back a spline and try again. You can check the strength of the rear spring easily. Just check it by hand. If it feels weak, it could be that the spring was not hooked last time it was installed.

Sending you more info by PM.

 

[Grandpot]

Snowmelt Spyder is 100% correct on this. There should be no reason for a dramatic fix, other than the correct adjustment.