• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

19 RTL Vibration/Tensioner Movement issue . Fix?

V8GremlinX

New member
I have a 2019 RTL. Purchased New Aug 12th. Had belt vibration and decided to install a Lamonster Tensioner. This was at aprox 650 miles. Immediately noticed difference. Was super excited. I generally run approx 5 mph over on eway so i am generally cruising at 75. @735 miles the wife and I decided to go on a long trip across northern Michigan. Northern Michigan has a speed limit of 75. So I decided to cruise around 80. Noticed my vibration was coming back. Just as it was before Tensioner install. When we got to first destination it was dark so i inspected in morning. Noticed that the Lamonster Tenesioner had moved far one way on belt. Bolts were tight etc. and yes it was center when I installed. So i pulled it back to where its suppose to be and the bike road nice again but for a very short time before it moved again. I even took panels off and checked everything again. Pulled on the Lamonster Tensioner to possibly tweak it a bit as I saw someone do on YouTube. Again same result.

This is where I saw that my belt is far to the inside. Guessing this is a misalignment? could this cause it to push tensioner towards the inside? Also notice wear coloring difference on belt when we got back home (total 992miles). I would rather do the work myself an avoid dealer(let alone they are to busy and short handed as they say) My issue is theirs a lot of info on the forums on how to and what specs etc. Some saying Krikit does work on can ams to check tension and this and that. should be 160 or 200. Im looking for best advice for my unit. 19 RTL driven 2 up a lot. approx 380lb for both passengers. I need to know best recommended specs and tools and possible how to's. I included some pictures

Its frustrating to have to deal with these issues on a newer bike.

Thank you


Rich
 

Attachments

  • 119943015_10219603594055337_195660241512883980_n.jpg
    119943015_10219603594055337_195660241512883980_n.jpg
    49.9 KB · Views: 54
  • 119984964_10219603594615351_9206073170469036485_n.jpg
    119984964_10219603594615351_9206073170469036485_n.jpg
    25.3 KB · Views: 53
  • 120040024_10219603593815331_4162275994611445264_n.jpg
    120040024_10219603593815331_4162275994611445264_n.jpg
    32.4 KB · Views: 58
Rich, I also have a 19 RTL with a recently installed LaMonster tensioner. IMO, it's more correctly a "vibration damper". I used a Krikit II gauge to set the belt at 200 pounds with the wheel on the ground. I found very little difference between tension readings with the wheel off the ground, but your wheel on ground reading may increase slightly since most of your riding is two up. IMO, the vibration you feel may more attributed to the belt mis-alignment than the tensioner. Correct the mis-alignment first and see what happens. BTW if you haven't ever adjusted the belt, you need a 36MM socket with a BIG breaker bar to loosen the axle nut. It's torqued to 166 ft-lbs. You'll need the Krikit II gauge to know whether to tighten the left side or loosen the right side axle adjusters to move the belt. It only takes a small amount of adjustment to make a difference where the belt runs (like 1/4 to 1/2 turn)
 
Rich, I also have a 19 RTL with a recently installed LaMonster tensioner. IMO, it's more correctly a "vibration damper". I used a Krikit II gauge to set the belt at 200 pounds with the wheel on the ground. I found very little difference between tension readings with the wheel off the ground, but your wheel on ground reading may increase slightly since most of your riding is two up. IMO, the vibration you feel may more attributed to the belt mis-alignment than the tensioner. Correct the mis-alignment first and see what happens. BTW if you haven't ever adjusted the belt, you need a 36MM socket with a BIG breaker bar to loosen the axle nut. It's torqued to 166 ft-lbs. You'll need the Krikit II gauge to know whether to tighten the left side or loosen the right side axle adjusters to move the belt. It only takes a small amount of adjustment to make a difference where the belt runs (like 1/4 to 1/2 turn)


Thank you. I ordered the Krikit II from amazon and should be here thursday. Will dive into then. Seems simple based on the video's I watched
 
Are you basing your belt misalignment on picture number 3? That looks pretty much like a credit card width off the inside so the belt is correct.
 
Actually tried to fit a credit card in gap. not happening. to small of a gap. Here is a picture of my front sprocket. I just took dampener off and inspected and reinstalled. drove around block and it sucked right to the inside again. guess im gonna remove for now since its causing wear/discoloration to belt. Looking for any advice. thank you
 

Attachments

  • 119753677_10219614838496441_285966822549526262_o.jpg
    119753677_10219614838496441_285966822549526262_o.jpg
    43 KB · Views: 29
That seems odd, at least to me, and I'm totally new to Spyders. But it seems like it should be near the inside flange on the front belt as well as the
rear belt. If you shift the rear wheel to move the belt over, won't it also try to move towards the outside on the front pulley? Or am I missing
something here?

I'm interested because I'm going to check the tension and adjust the belt position on Peggy's Spyder when the Krikit II comes in. Hers runs right up
against the flange on the rear pulley, enough that it has rubbed the flange, and polished the side of the belt a bit.
 
I would do all of the adjusting off the back sprocket don't pay to much attention to the front one, as far as alignment! Another thing is that belt even when set right to the nates ass is going to move around a bit and what you are looking for is a average setting as far as alignment go's! It should be about a cards gap from the sprockets rim, that picture looked not that bad, your tightness, I would set it around 160-170 on the ground to start with. Now that being said, like I said if you set it and run it on the jack in your shop and go to set it back on the ground and take a test drive, and back it out of the shop and get off it and look at the belt it will most likely going to be way out of wack, it dose that!!! When you go around the block and get it warmed up and drive it back in the shop to see what's going on it should be where you want it, with in reason, it will drift a little, but it should be close to the rim of that sprocket! One thing I hope you learn is keep it stupid simple, and you are going to feel some things threw the bike no matter what you do. Ride more worry less!! Good Luck!!
 
My belt may be fine. Dont know. Gonna check tension tomorrow. Biggest thing im trying to figure out is why the lamonster tension/dampener isnt staying true. Keeps sucking to inside. Ty for feedback
 
Is the dampener moving or is it the belt? Is it loosing up? Some people can adjust the tension and get the vibration to go away to a level where you don't need the tensioner at all, that would be a good thing, one less thing to go wrong! But if you do get this combo to work remember to keep a eye on the bearings in that wheel, it has been known to dry up and burn a belt! Good Luck!!
 
yeah i get the roller set center etc. by the time i get around the block is has made a hard move to the inside as you can see from the overhang in picture. :-(
 

Attachments

  • 119943015_10219603594055337_195660241512883980_n.jpg
    119943015_10219603594055337_195660241512883980_n.jpg
    49.9 KB · Views: 25
Back
Top