12000 mile inspection

[exwinger]

I know that there are some that are going to find fault with my questions for various reasons. The questions are exactly what " should be done " or what actually " needs " to be done.I have read the BRP specs and know what they say " needs " done but I question some of it and I've had opinions from several different dealers on how they look at and interpret it. I've always been of the opinion that if it ain't broke then don't fix it before inspecting it . Do the y gaskets really need changed if there's no sign of leakage ? I know of "preventative " maintenance procedures and believe in them however if there's no leakage then why change them ? If they do start leaking it should be apparent and then have them changed ? Other than poor performance until repaired , what is going to be damaged assuming it's not driven forever until new ones are installed ? I know that some will say that in the long run it will save money because the tupperware is already off and will have to be taken off later and labor charges applied.

Also is it really necessary to totally change out all the fluids ( other than oil and filter )? If coolant is at the correct level and testing shows it's still within limits , why change it ? I do believe in changing and flushing clutch and brakefluids but does it really need done at 12000 miles ? I normally do the changes after two riding seasons unless I really put on a lot of miles . I've had a lot of different cycles and this has always been my standard and have had no problems.

Then there's the sparkplugs , this will probably bring the heat down on me . Is it the plugs or wires that need changed or both ? Is it a " must " change ?

I'll probably hear that the difference in money between doing everything or not doing it all is negligible and foolish to worry about because penny wise sometimes means being dollars foolish later. Am I really being foolish to not do it all down to the wire as per BRP specs .? From the different quotes I've got , there's a huge difference in money savings . And one dealer did say the valve adjustment is very critical at this interval and "acted" very surprised when I mentioned that BRP has changed the miles for this. That ( honest ) dealer won't be getting my business for this inspection or any others ? Just a case of the customer paying for something he won't be getting !

I know everyone has an opinion , some right , some wrong and some just guessing .I've got a wealth of information from this site and hope to continue learning .What I've learned here has really helped when talking to techs concerning problems and maybe even kept them a little honest.

Prices have ranged from $650 ( not including oil change ) + parts and materials to as low as $350 including parts and materials ( except oil change ) but only replacing things that after inspection show they should be replaced. Very large range in labor with the lowest only charging for actual labor and not what BRP suggests for labor .Another saying says if it appears too good to be true it usually isn't .

Opinions ?

 

[Dudley]

I can tell you my experience. Our first Spyder was a 2008 SE5. We rode it 43,000 miles in 23 months and the only time it went in the shop was for BRP recalls. I have my own mechanic that did the tire changes when needed, and one tune up at 30,000 miles. I change my own oil every 5,000 miles and use Royal Purple 10W40 Automotive Synthetic oil...have NEVER had any oil issues. Our current Spyder is a 2010 RT SM5 with 37,000 miles in 2.5 years...same care as the first one. What one does about his/her Spyder is really a personal decision. You will probably get tons of "what to do and how to do and why to do". In the end it's your decision.

 

[Pennyrick]

The updated periodic maintenance schedule for my 2012 RT shows nothing is listed for 12,000 miles.

The jumps are 4,600 to 9,300 to 14,000 miles. Replacements listed are for: Air filer; clutch fluid (SM5 only-14,000 miles or 2 years whichever comes first); coolant (14,000 miles or 2 years whichever comes first); exhaust gaskets (GS & RS only); Plugs; rear axle seals and o-rings and brake fluid (14,000 miles or 2 years whichever comes first).

The only adjustments shown are for throttle bodies (on GS and RS only) and for valve clearance. I have discussed this at length with the techs at my dealer and they tell me that valves on every Spyder they have checked have been in spec. Based on this they suggest it is my call as to whether to perform this or not.

Service bulletin 2012-12 from Can-Am says..... "several inspections on high mileage engines at our test faciilty and in the network do confirm that the valve train adjustment intervals can be increased from 6,000 to 14,000 miles". My hunch is that this is a very conservative statement and I would suspect that 20,000 miles or more may be more in line.

The only concern I have is with warranty issues and since I added a service package for the first six intervals at the time of purchase I will let the dealer make the decision on the valve work. (If they want to mark them off as in-spec I really don't care if they tear the engine apart or not).

 

[Bob Ledford]

Suggested service intervals

I am with you on this about half to three quarters of the way. The manufacturer has to set some ground rules to protect the companies warranty program. Otherwise some people would not do any preventive maintenance at all. They would ride it until it broke then call a dealer to come pickup the pieces and fix it. Under warranty hopefully!

Engines, an metal last longer today, then they did forty years ago too. But that does not mean the suggested maintenance chart got updated last month.

Reference labor rates, I totally agree they are out of sight. But the tech or mechanic does not even come close to getting half of that. When I was pulling wrenches back in the sixties I got a whopping fifty dollars a week for forty four hours of getting dirty.

Salaries, advertising, health, building, liability, fire insurance excise a big nut for a dealer to have to crack every time he unlocks the front door. Not to forgetting having to floor plan a variety of Can-Am's for us to come in and drool, get finger prints and dirt on the foot pegs on!

Labor rates, I would venture a good guess on, at least when I was involved in upper level management in commercial refrigeration, are set by the size of expenses, net profit the owner wanted divided by the amount of estimated sales, labor and parts income that could be produced under optimum conditions.

You could not lure me into the retail market today no matter how hard you tried.

 

[ARtraveler]

Adjusting the valves is one of the things set for 14,000 miles. A lot of us have not done this service at 14,000. It brings the cost of the service up to about $850.00. I did adjust the valves on my first :spyder2: (2008) at the recommended interval. No adjustment needed. The labor charge still applied because they have to take the bike pretty much apart to do it. I have not adjusted the valves at 12,000/14,000 (they have changed it to 14,000) on my 2009, or my 2010. Will see what I do on the 2011.

I had the valves looked at on my 2010 at 28,000 miles. They were still not in need of adjustment. Another $850 spent.

It is a crap shoot, and you have to decide--to service the valves or not to service the valves. I have not had any problems and so no warranty questions or problems have arisen.

 

[78OldRide]

12000 mi service

I to am curious about the 12k service. I have to replace the rear tire so I ordered the rear bearings and seals. I'm hopeing they come in this week suppose to be raining Saturday . Couple of hrs I hope to be done.

 

[CyncySpyder]

For what its worth we just had our valve clearance check done for the 1st time at 34,000 miles :shocked: and were told they were still within spec :bowdown: