-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
No more heat to my right leg
- Thread starter joelin
- Start date
On that subject....inside the radiator cover, you'll see a scoop directing the air up and out towards the openning. A closer look, you notice the scoop doesn't go all the way to the bottom and there's a 2" gap between the scoop and the cowl body. I plan to go to Lowes and buy a small square of 3/32" plexiglass and attach it to the scoop to extend it to the cowl. Rivits will be used as the permanent attachment. This will direct 95% of the air up and out of the cowl. It should work.
I also wrapped my exhaust pipe along the left side from the header to the crossover with fiberglass wrap. Simple job, and cut the left side heat down by 80%.
Will take pictures when I remove the covers again.
I also wrapped my exhaust pipe along the left side from the header to the crossover with fiberglass wrap. Simple job, and cut the left side heat down by 80%.
Will take pictures when I remove the covers again.
bjt
Very Helpful Member
You need to upload your pictures from your computer to a picture hosting site like PhotoBucket. Then you link to your pictures on the picture hosting site in your posts here. For future reference, the same process can work on many other forums.
Here is a link to some picture instruction I posted on SpyderLovers before.
Here is a link to some picture instruction I posted on SpyderLovers before.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Looks like a good idea. I have noticed the heat coming through that gap, and had thought about redirecting it to the outside vent hole. I think I will try some kraft foam glued in there.
The extra fan is pretty inconspicuous behind the Kewlmetal web. Nicely done. Did you say where you powered the fan from, and whether it is thermostatically controlled. That is one area that simple programming could cure. The Spyder fan comes on at too high of a temperature, IMO, and shuts off at apparently the same setting. If it came on sooner, as Ken at Evoluzione has done, and stayed on longer, it would help. I also think they should program it to run a while after you shut the Spyder down, like a car, but they probably worry about the battery voltage, which seems to be crucial.
-Scotty
The extra fan is pretty inconspicuous behind the Kewlmetal web. Nicely done. Did you say where you powered the fan from, and whether it is thermostatically controlled. That is one area that simple programming could cure. The Spyder fan comes on at too high of a temperature, IMO, and shuts off at apparently the same setting. If it came on sooner, as Ken at Evoluzione has done, and stayed on longer, it would help. I also think they should program it to run a while after you shut the Spyder down, like a car, but they probably worry about the battery voltage, which seems to be crucial.
-Scotty
Twodog185 said:
I also wrapped my exhaust pipe on the left side today. I started looking up some stuff about this exhaust wrap (which I should have before wrapping) and found a lot about rust being accelerated on the pipe wrapped. I've read that water gets soaked into the wrap easily and this causes the rust acceleration. I did use the heat spray but I have find a way to cover the rest of the engine while spraying to apply a more protective coat. Do any of the pros have any thoughts on this rust matter? The heat is definitely is down on the left side! I was thinking about also wrapping the other side. However, if this rust acceleration is true, I may have to rethink this exhaust wrap.
Sopher
New member
Last weekend I went ahead and put on the DEI heat Wrap. Both left and right sides. It looked kind of funny when I ran the bike for the next two rides. At stop lights my bike would eminate smoke like a bad cigarette. It was "Seasoning" the wrap! (I had dipped the wrap in water as the instructions say to make a tighter wrap.)
The heat is lower. I think extending the air scoop to completely cover the fan output is a good way to go. I would favor a flexable plastic as it wont tear up or fall apart like cardboard.
Idea: Craft stores sell thin plastic (about the thinkness of the cardboard on the back of a pad of papper). Spray this flat black and install with pop rivets. I doubt the heat is so high as to melt it, but it may be worth using a heat temp gun to measure it.
The heat is lower. I think extending the air scoop to completely cover the fan output is a good way to go. I would favor a flexable plastic as it wont tear up or fall apart like cardboard.
Idea: Craft stores sell thin plastic (about the thinkness of the cardboard on the back of a pad of papper). Spray this flat black and install with pop rivets. I doubt the heat is so high as to melt it, but it may be worth using a heat temp gun to measure it.
i did not do the plastic with the rivets to shield the heat, but i did do the DEI exhaust wrap. what a world of difference! heres the product i bought, what a time saver!
http://www.deicycle.com/Black_Motorcycle_Exhaust_Pipe_Wrap_Kit_w/_Black_HT_Silicone_Coating
Sopeher ---------> :nopic: of your final plastic install... thats a great idea, just wanna see how it looks.
http://www.deicycle.com/Black_Motorcycle_Exhaust_Pipe_Wrap_Kit_w/_Black_HT_Silicone_Coating
Sopeher ---------> :nopic: of your final plastic install... thats a great idea, just wanna see how it looks.
I'm not trying to be negative, but for idle & slow speed riding (where heat seems to be a problem) the spyder web grille and the 2nd fan might be blocking more air from the primary fan then your moving with the second fan. On that type of fan design, the most volume of air is on the tips of the blades and almost no air in the center. Looks at best you might be using only 40-50% of the fan's capability since the remaining blades are cavitating up against the shroud. The center of the fan is just blocking the opening at this point. Once the primary fan starts, the high pressure area from the primary fan will easily find it's way out of the opening.
We run into the same exact heat problems in the fuselage with the scale model helicopters. You might be much better off installing that fan on the engine compartment to move ambient air from around the engine and exhaust pipes.
Just my 2cents!
Last edited:
the fan on the picture was 6.5 " It was too big . I installed new one is 5.6" . it fit right on the center of the web . I add one switch for the fan . when I was riding in the traffic at 96 to 103 F I turn on the fan the temperature bar never over 5 bar . the heat to my leg was gone right away .
Similar threads
