Yep, back to the shop it goes! I called the dealer service desk and told him what was happening. First words out of his mouth "that sucks". I just picked it up Saturday after being in the shop for 17 days. In all fairness they did a good job, riding it home Saturday I finally got the same experience most of you did when you rode yours home, it worked like it should have. Took the wife for a nice long supper ride so she could see what it was like when it worked like it was supposed to. We were happy! Now I have to decide if I should put the Klicktronic shifter back on the Harley/CSC. We are supposed to leave May 29 for our big summer trip and I'm not sure the RT-S will be available and I do have some "trust" issue's with it now. I'll have to load the RT-S up on a trailer, the service guy said if the check engine light is flashing you shouldn't ride it. Hoping to get it there Wed afternoon. If it needs parts that means at least another 7 to 10 days down. What's a guy to do?
Dwight
I feel your pain!Hey Widowmaker,
I sure hope you're right!
Thanks
Dwight
Possible causes: Damaged switch, damaged circuit wires, damaged connector, damaged ECM pins.Got it back Saturday. Runs fine. Service rep couldn't give me a specific reason for the problem. He said they thought it was corrosion on some connection? I'm not happy about that but what can I do? I've ridden it in the rain and washed it a couple of times, should I not do that? I sure hope this doesn't turn out to be a fair weather ride! I don't think they were sure they had fixed it, they took it on a 40 mile test ride. We leave the 29th for our summer trip, guess we'll take out and see how far we make it! Dwight
You should get a shop manuel if you are going to do your own work on the Spyder.I have a fault code. Where do I find the explanation for them? I have an EDB fault, code P0524. Anybody have any ideas? I do have the CD shop manual.
Thanks
Dwight
Where did you get a new pressure switch. From the Dealer??:dontknow:Or can we pick one up somewhere else.Dwight- Hopefully it won't take that long. Several RT's have experienced your symptoms and it was just a bad oil pressure switch. Its a quick quick fix.ray:
Where did you get a new pressure switch. From the Dealer??:dontknow:Or can we pick one up somewhere else.
Since it is a round trip of 300mi for me to return to the Dealer I kind of figured on doing the repair myself. Hence the question about where to get the switch.:chat:I am sure it can be had elsewhere but why? We are all under warranty.
I think I answered my own question. The EOP switch seems to be OK. There is a dynamic test described in the manual. I'll go try that but now, the problem seems to be with the wiring.Since it is a round trip of 300mi for me to return to the Dealer I kind of figured on doing the repair myself. Hence the question about where to get the switch.:chat:
I have another question for y'uns. If the switch is supposed to be Open after the oil pressure comes up, I should be able just to pull the wire off of the switch and get the same result, NO?:dontknow: When I do that, I still get the P0524 indication. Do I need to clear the fault code first? If so, how do I do that?:dontknow:
Well, the circuit wiring seems to be OK. So the manual says TRY a new EOP switch. I suppose I'll have to haul it into the dealer for that. I have all the tupperware off so I'll have to trailer it itI think I answered my own question. The EOP switch seems to be OK. There is a dynamic test described in the manual. I'll go try that but now, the problem seems to be with the wiring.![]()
Same situation myself. Light clears when switch is disconnected, but code and limp mode do not. Disconnecting the battery will not reset it. If it is a reset issue, it must be done via BUDS, but I suspect new switches will be needed too, despite testing good with the ohmmeter. Call your dealer first, they are not likely to have one in stock.Well, the circuit wiring seems to be OK. So the manual says TRY a new EOP switch. I suppose I'll have to haul it into the dealer for that. I have all the tupperware off so I'll have to trailer it itIt being Saturday at 4:00 I'll probably have to wait until Monday:cus:
Same situation myself. Light clears when switch is disconnected, but code and limp mode do not. Disconnecting the battery will not reset it. If it is a reset issue, it must be done via BUDS, but I suspect new switches will be needed too, despite testing good with the ohmmeter. Call your dealer first, they are not likely to have one in stock.:hun:
My trailer is full of 18 replacement windows I puicked up last week. Now I have to figure where to put those so I can load the RTS. How do I get myself into these fixes? :roflblack: