-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Comparison of Power Commander 5 to Monster ECU stage 1 or stage 2 flash
- Thread starter Revalden
- Start date
While you wait for the response from the truly knowledgeable, here's my understanding on these questions....
1. I believe that even the stock Spyder ECU's WILL open the throttle 100%, but only for a short while when WOT is initially applied (maybe a tad more than 'just momentarily', but not too much more! :lecturef_smilie: ) and once the initial acceleration is induced, the ECU reduces that opening somewhat - can't tell you exactly when or what the exact percentage is, but beyond the 'momentarily' comment above, I think the throttle reverts to something like 90-95% open pdq - the story I've heard is that it's something to do with reducing the emissions that running at WOT for more than a second or so might emit if your engine doesn't completely burn the fuel/air charge! :shocked:
2. Dunno about Monster or Wick-it's version, altho I reckon it'd be 'fairly' similar (even if not quite as comprehensive
) but on my V-Twin motor the Rotax Racing ECU Upgrade certainly does go to 100% WOT and then holds that setting for a lot longer than stock - right out until the revs hit the (increased 
) red line & then longer! 
hyea: Nb: the increased red line is still somewhat less than that used by the V-Twin engine in some other applications; and my understanding is that the Upgraded tune is such that I'd hafta be sucking air at the same sort of altitude as Everest's Death Zone while ryding my Spyder to result in only a partial burn of the engine's fuel/air charge! And I don't get to do that too often here in Oz.... Be interested to hear what Monster &/or Wick-it come back with?!? :dontknow:
Over to you, Lew! :cheers:
Last edited:
That would be a good question for Lew to ask them. Their website is really short on info.
Lew L
Well-known member
This was one of the reasons I modified the intake of my 2014. I haven't found the large intake opening in the radiator nacelle after closely inspecting a few other 1330 's (Rt's) mentioned by another member here.
Lew L
The air intake mod is only required for stage 2. Some who've done stage 2 say that they can hear the difference in the intake sound when they roll on the throttle. I noticed more so the feeling of the frontend getting lighter as the RPM's increase. One of my reasons for stage 2 is passing a truck going uphill when I'm pulling a trailer and I don't want to take a long time doing it and hold up traffic. That's where stage 2 really shines. Have you ever been on a long uphill 3 lane grade where some flatlander takes the entire stretch of the 3 lanes to pass the slow moving truck and ends up holding everyone else back? Yea, even the truck driver doesn't like that. No one can pass me except that guy in the red Hellcat. LOL If you ever get stage 2, please use it responsibly.
Lew L
Well-known member
.
I've gotten response from Monster FI. What Pete and Pete said are correct BUT there is more. From what I got out out of Monsters response is:
1. 100% throttle opening is NOT always there ( when you want it) It may be 100% in second gear and momentarily at best.
2. It is never there in reverse or neutral ( a good thing)
3. ECU tuning by Monster FI does give 100% A LOT of the time :thumbup:
I may have to get home to get the full text of Monsters response posted. But even more contemplation of it will occur now.
Lew L
I've gotten response from Monster FI. What Pete and Pete said are correct BUT there is more. From what I got out out of Monsters response is:
1. 100% throttle opening is NOT always there ( when you want it) It may be 100% in second gear and momentarily at best.
2. It is never there in reverse or neutral ( a good thing)
3. ECU tuning by Monster FI does give 100% A LOT of the time :thumbup:
I may have to get home to get the full text of Monsters response posted. But even more contemplation of it will occur now.
Lew L
Does the Monster Flash (either Stage 1 or 2) affect normal cruising fuel mileage? I seem to recall Lew saying his mileage is actually better with Stage 1 than with stock ECU. It would be nice to think all that extra power is available when it's needed, but under normal operating conditions it acts like an unaltered ECU.
ALSO, does flashing the ECU affect the nanny operation at all? I wouldn't want to lose any of the stability or traction features.
My ECU Update is definitely not a Stage 1, but it too improved the fuel economy for 'normal cruising', quite a bit in fact!
hyea: And NO, flashing the ECU to improve the engine's performance doesn't impact the Nanny operation or intervention in any way, altho because you've got more power/torque on hand & quite possibly a quicker response from the throttle, you might feel as tho she's intervening a bit earlier - but that's just cos you've reached the limits a little (oe a lottle!) quicker!! :shocked: . The parameters for stability & traction control aren't usually touched in an ECU Upgrade tho - unless of course, you ask your tuner to ease them off a bit & your tuner is capable of doing that & willing to do that! :lecturef_smilie:
Go on, DO IT!! You know you want to!! :yes: There's very little in the way of drawbacks to a good ECU Upgrade, and there's a whole lot to be gained!! And any drawbacks are largely self imposed - ie, if you can't ever resist the temptation to wring it out &/or light up the rear tire at every opportunity, you will probably wear out even the best &/or longest lasting tire quicker than you would with a stock tune...
. But it usually doesn't take long to get over that exuberance of having the greater power/torque on tap; altho even the greatest of Nanny's can't protect us from our own excesses :banghead: Besides, you really wouldn't want her to be that restrictive anyway.... would you??! :dontknow: Enjoy! :cheers:
I went riding in the mountains today with my CVMA buddies. 25 bikes. They're all riding Harleys or Indians and they're younger. 5 of us at the back of the pack got left behind at a traffic light to an onramp. When the light turned green the two bikes in front of me poured on the throttle to catch up to the rest of the pack. Absolutely deafening noise from their pipes. I kept up with them okay, but was never able to pass them. I gotta do something about that!
Stage 1, stage 2 or dynojet? Still trying to decide.
I'm thinking I should probably put a new belt on first. Mine got a hole in it from a rock I picked up (pre belt guard) awhile back....
The cash we got from selling Jane's Cognac RT is indefinitely burning a hole in my pocket...
Stage 1, stage 2 or dynojet? Still trying to decide.
I'm thinking I should probably put a new belt on first. Mine got a hole in it from a rock I picked up (pre belt guard) awhile back....
The cash we got from selling Jane's Cognac RT is indefinitely burning a hole in my pocket...
Last edited:
Well Pete, after doing all the research I could do on the subject I chose to go directly to stage 2 with Monster. Actually, Wick-It did it. The only sticky portion of the process was getting the ECU connections to release. And of course the downtime. Watch Monster's YouTube on removal and follow all the directions including sending the ECU to them. Seems the ECU learns your style of driving. My first tank full got me 31 MPG. UGH! But I kept with it and now I'm getting 40+ 2up. Not sure yet but I may get better MPG at 65+ rather than 60 MPH. The feel of the machine and the sound it's putting out makes me think it likes 65 rather than 60. Still working on that one. Instant start, no booting up. A few quirky things change with normal operating procedures but nothing mind bending. I normally run ECO mode 95% of the time and use cruise control as often as I can, set at 60 uphill and downhill. The nanny is unaffected after the upgrade. Drive normally just like you used to do and you'd never notice the upgrade until you roll up the throttle. In the long run you may get a bit more MPG. Currently, I'm doing a long term MPG test. Probably do it all summer long or more. By the way, the throttle needs a much lighter touch. Without you knowing it if you grab the same amount of throttle as before you can easily hit something in tight quarters. You'll spin the tire in the gravel and on the pavement you'll make the spider lurch forward unintentionally. So be aware.
Last edited:
Why?? Has your belt shown any other signs of wear?? Has the hole been spreading? Are the edges of the hole or the edges of belt itself tearing or fraying more? What a bout the teeth/cogs on the belt?? Any signs of stress cracking or teeth breaking out of or off theg belt backing.... :dontknow: These belts are really a WHOLE LOT stronger & more capable of handling this sorta stuff than most of you seem to think.... :banghead:
So if there's NOT any sign of increased wear/damage along the lines mentioned above, then it's quite likely that if it didn't break immediately or start fraying straight away after the hole was punched in it, then the belt that was designed to be self healing up to a certain degree has almost certainly done tthat and is almost certainly fine as it is to do anything your Spyder's capable of dishing out pre or post ECU Upgrade!! So just get on with ryding it & if you feel you must, check the belt carefully every service; maybe eyeball it whenever you check the tires; or inspect it after each quick 1000 miles on loose gravel you do, just like I do miine
. Why waste money on buying trouble before there's even a hint that there'll be any?!? :gaah: . If you really feel concerned about it despite there being no indication that you should be, you could always buy a new belt & carry it with you for Justin.... and in the meantime.... can you guess what I'm gonna type next??
Go onnn, surely you can guess what I'm gonna type next??
Yup - Ryde More, Worry Less!
hyea: And if you feel the need for any ECU Upgrade or Dynojet or whatever performance enhancement, even if you just want one; why waste your time on getting anything LESS than what you think you might want/need now or at some stage down track?!? Especially since an ECU Upgrade can give you everything those Pedal Commanders etc &/or a lesser 'Flash' can, plus a whole lot more!?! :banghead: . And yeah, if you're SURE you'll be happy with just an enhanced throttle response & no power gains; a Dynojet; or even a Stage 1 forever, then DO IT and quit dithering/selling yourself short! :sour: . But if you have the slightest concern or feeling that you might eventually want to go to a Stage 2 ever, even if at some stage waaayyy down track, the same thing applies - don't waste your time & money fiddling around the edges for whatever reason,
just DO IT!
And then get out there & ENJOY IT too!!
hyea: :yes: :thumbup:
Last edited:
trikermutha
New member
What are the gains with the Flash?
I would start with the pedal commander first then see if you really need a flash.
The pedal commander will get you off the line faster and while cruising.
I would start with the pedal commander first then see if you really need a flash.
The pedal commander will get you off the line faster and while cruising.
troop
Well-known member
Just remember, with the Stage 2 flash, 91+ octane is a requirement. If you plan on traveling, you might want to carry some octane booster. While 91+ is mostly readily available, it isn't always available. On my Dyno Jet PV3 custom tune, I also got improved cruising mpg. That said, when I travel travel this year, I will revert back to my stock tune to be able to use 87 octane with these stupid fuel prices.
Peter Aawen, I'm thoroughly enjoying your comments and trashing of my excuses. Just what I need to stop dithering...almost.
What are the air box mods required of the Stage 2?
I like the idea of being able to select 'modes' as with the Dynojet, and being able to use lower octane fuels when the 91 isn't available (which is often the case in the rural areas of the West). Control is good, to my way of thinking.
So, any thoughts on Stage 2 vs Dynojet?
What are the air box mods required of the Stage 2?
I like the idea of being able to select 'modes' as with the Dynojet, and being able to use lower octane fuels when the 91 isn't available (which is often the case in the rural areas of the West). Control is good, to my way of thinking.
So, any thoughts on Stage 2 vs Dynojet?
Lew L
Well-known member
.
Stage 2 does 2 holes in the "LID"of the air box.I would think that this brings in hotter air. From that I know of ait boxes-- they are "carefully tuned " to the motorcycle engine. I've made a couple of mistakes modifying air boxes by adding holes. Had to close and repair the holes...but modifications to the intake portion of the box ALWAYS helped. Thus, removing the restrictions and enlarging and reshaping the front of the 2014 intake snout with a stage 1 works for me.
Stage 2 does 2 holes in the "LID"of the air box.I would think that this brings in hotter air. From that I know of ait boxes-- they are "carefully tuned " to the motorcycle engine. I've made a couple of mistakes modifying air boxes by adding holes. Had to close and repair the holes...but modifications to the intake portion of the box ALWAYS helped. Thus, removing the restrictions and enlarging and reshaping the front of the 2014 intake snout with a stage 1 works for me.
Ah, would 10/20+ HP do? Take your pick.
https://wick-itperformance.com/shop-products/ols/products/monster-fuel-injection-can-am-spyder
Last edited by a moderator:
Two (approx 1") holes drilled in your air box air filter lid. Just send it in with the ECU. Oxygen is the powerhouse. So, more Oxy in, more burnt Oxy out = more HP. Remember the comments about the throttle plates opening 100%? Currently, you're carb compliant. If you go stage 2 you will no longer pass smog. That's the only downside. However Wick-it. can put you back to OEM specs if needed. You'll have to contact them for more info regarding reset to OEM. (One week turnaround.) As for 91 grade fuel. I carry two small bottles of Boostane and the mix ratio is approx 1/2oz to 1, very very small.
Last edited by a moderator:
Similar threads
