Frunk

[spy_der_man]

Hello,

OK techies I have a question?
I just had my DESS Module and ignition replaced yesterday. Made a couple of stops on the way home. The frunk opened normal every time. On my last stop it would not open and still will not open.
Is there a tip/trick to getting the frunk open? :banghead::banghead::banghead:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

FRUNK

Sometimes if you or someone can press down on the lid at the latch area while you push in the key and turn it, it should open......but it may need lube or adjustment.............I completely disconnected mine and use separate pull cord to open the latch....because if the KEY breaks in the lock ....you are looking at $ 400.00 + in repairs.....Mike :thumbup:./. HOPEFULLY THEY REMEMBERED TO RE-CONNECT THE CABLE AFTER THEY PUT THE FRUNK BACK ON !!!!!!...:yikes:

 

[Brentc]

Similar issue after ignition replacement

I had a similar issue with the frunk being "tight" after my ignition was replaced. I took back to dealer and they lubricated the latch, but still is tighter than I would prefer. Ditto on Mikes suggestion to have someone put gentle pressure on lid while turning the key, and be very careful as noted about snapping the key..

 

[spy_der_man]

Thank you, I will give it a try and see

 

[Chupaca]

Little checking..!!

having worked on the ignition switch area the may have routed the cable differently. Frunk mechanism should not have been affected. Lube is always good and checking seal and amout in frunk helps avoid pressure on the latch. :thumbup:

 

[coz]

Of course you did

Sometimes if you or someone can press down on the lid at the latch area while you push in the key and turn it, it should open......but it may need lube or adjustment.............I completely disconnected mine and use separate pull cord to open the latch....because if the KEY breaks in the lock ....you are looking at $ 400.00 or in repairs.....Mike :thumbup:./. HOPEFULLY THEY REMEBERED TO RE-CONNECT THE CABLE AFTER THEY PUT THE FRUNK BACK ON !!!!!!...:yikes:

Mike- Guy- ver . Don't hit the ejector seat button accidentally. :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

rt's are different

having worked on the ignition switch area the may have routed the cable differently. Frunk mechanism should not have been affected. Lube is always good and checking seal and amout in frunk helps avoid pressure on the latch. :thumbup:

Chewey, because He said the DESS module was changed / worked on ....I know the entire frunk was taken off to do this and the latch cable has to be dis-connected completely also.........Been there done that .....Mike :thumbup:

 

[GeorgiaBill]

Good Suggestion

Sometimes if you or someone can press down on the lid at the latch area while you push in the key and turn it, it should open......but it may need lube or adjustment.............I completely disconnected mine and use separate pull cord to open the latch....because if the KEY breaks in the lock ....you are looking at $ 400.00 + in repairs.....Mike :thumbup:./. HOPEFULLY THEY REMEMBERED TO RE-CONNECT THE CABLE AFTER THEY PUT THE FRUNK BACK ON !!!!!!...:yikes:

That sounds worth a try. I have to use gentle pressure on my right saddlebag to get it to release.
-Bill

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

FRUNK ISSUES

That sounds worth a try. I have to use gentle pressure on my right saddlebag to get it to release.
-Bill

Bill ....What " sounds worth a try " ???... the separate cord thing ? ? .....if so, it's fairly easy. If interested PM me and I'll explain it......................Mike :thumbup:

 

[spy_der_man]

Well it didn't work so I guess it's back to the dealership for fixin!!
I will try and see if I can get some lube close enough to get it to work before I go......

 

[JerryB]

Hi Mike,

Re: If interested PM me and I'll explain it......................

Care to explain here for all of us to know?

Jerry Baumchen

 

[PCBeachBum]

I couldn't open the frunk on my 2008 GS and got it open by pushing down on the lid and turning the key. I checked the seal around the trunk liner and found an area that had come apart. I glued it down and it worked fine for a couple of days. I than couldn't get it open again and pushing down again didn't work. I ordered a new cable at the dealership and with my helmet and gear in the frunk, I turned the handlebars to the left and looking up from underneath where the cable attaches to the switch, I gave it a tug up. The frunk opened and ever since I haven't had a problem. I still have the new cable and will replace it if I have another problem, but so far its been fine..

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SEPARATE FRUNK RELEASE METHOD ....NOT USING KEY

Hi Mike,

Re: If interested PM me and I'll explain it......................

Care to explain here for all of us to know?

Jerry Baumchen

For you Jerry I'll try.....I won't do PICs , because you can't do it the way I did......because all of you still have your AIR INTAKE under the left fender.....I don't.........However it's still easy to do.....I used a thin flexible wire cable that was plastic coated ( It was from some computer wiring that I found -- however you can buy the same stuff at Home Depot or Lowe's 18 inches will do )......you need about 1/2 inch sq. piece of Velcro .....OK this is for RT's only.....open the frunk and on the right side above the frunk is a blk plastic cover ....remove it...shine a light down to the right ....you will see the left shock and the Air Intake .......you see the latch in the middle .....there is a longer lever behind the short one that is attached to with the cable ( to the KEY ).....the idea is to attach the new piece of cable to that lever and pass it over and down to the right and out by the shock.....I drilled a small hole in the "latch" lever and put the cable in and knotted it...then attached a small piece of wood to the other end ( something to hold on to ) and put 1/2 the Velcro onto it........the other 1/2 stick on the Air Intake ( after cleaning it ). In order to drill the hole in the LEVER you either have to have a very long bit or you need to re-move the frunk to get access to drill the hole.....I know PICs are great but if you follow along with the above while looking at your Spyder it becomes very obvious what needs to be done...........As I stated earlier I did this because I feel asking the KEY to open the frunk is asking TO MUCH ( the seat also )....if it breaks after the warranty expires ....it will cost $ 400.00 + of YOUR MONEY.......to get a new one................This is an easy winter project.....IMHO I would also wire the SEAT LATCH open for the same reason, actually it's even more important because it causes a lot more stress on the KEY........good luck......Mike :thumbup:

 

[Deanna777]

Hello,

OK techies I have a question?
I just had my DESS Module and ignition replaced yesterday. Made a couple of stops on the way home. The frunk opened normal every time. On my last stop it would not open and still will not open.
Is there a tip/trick to getting the frunk open? :banghead::banghead::banghead:

Sent a pm. Deanna

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

HOW TO OPEN THE 08 TO 12 GS / RS / RSS FRUNK WITHOUT DAMAGING ANYTHING

BRIAN this ones for you :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:........This worked for me .....you need a med / to large screwdriver and approx. 12 inch piece of 1/8 or 3/16 wood dowel or similar metal rod or very long thin screwdriver etc......and a good flashlite. From the right side look down at the middle just above the frunk edge..... below it you will see a cover....you want to put the screwdriver between the edge of the cover and the bottom of the headlite assembly.....and twist the screwdriver to pry open a slot......now from the right side , shine the flashlite into the gap....you should be able to see the spring and latch mechanism........push in your rod-dowel-screwdriver etc. against the latch arm and this will /should release the frunk.........At least it did mine ..........Before you close the frunk again .......put a strong cord on the latch and over to the other side so you can open it if it gets stuck again..........My earlier post on the release cord I did was for the RS series only.........good luck Brian.....Mike :thumbup:

 

[pegasus1300]

As to the seat I don't really feel any more pressure on the seat latch then I do in turning on the ignition,but I have tested my seat and it is latched. I am going to put some kind of spring in there to pop the seat up a little so I don't have to pull on the seat while turning the key.
Thanks Mike for your suggestions.

 

[spy_der_man]

Problem solved. Broken cable:banghead::banghead::banghead:. Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!!!!! :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

BRIAN this ones for you :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:........This worked for me .....you need a med / to large screwdriver and approx. 12 inch piece of 1/8 or 3/16 wood dowel or similar metal rod or thin screwdriver etc......and a good flashlite. From the right side look down at the middle just above the frunk edge..... below it you will see a cover....you want to put the screwdriver between the edge of the cover and the bottom of the headlite assembly.....and twist the screwdriver to pry open a slot......now from the right side , shine the flashlite into the gap....you should be able to see the spring and latch mechanism........push in your rod-dowel-screwdriver etc. against the latch arm and this will /should release the frunk.........At least it did mine ..........Before you close the frunk again .......put a strong cord on the latch and over to the other side so you can open it if it gets stuck again..........My earlier post on the release cord I did was for the RT series only.........good luck Brian.....Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BROKEN CABLE !!!!

Problem solved. Broken cable:banghead::banghead::banghead:. Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!!!!! :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

:clap: :clap: :clap:....Your welcome etc.etc.etc. :roflblack:.......OK , so do you know how to put in a new one if the dealer isn't going to do this ????.... if not I can tell you what you need to do..........Glad my method worked for you :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:.....Mike .... PS, I'm curious as to what on the cable broke....it's a pretty sturdy item that's not too stressed.

 

[spy_der_man]

IT WAS BROKEN ABOUT 6-8 INCHES FROM THE LATCH. NO SIGN OF TAMPERING. PLASTIC SLEEVE WAS INTACT. YOUR GUESS IS AS GOOD AS MINE.
IT WILL BE A WHILE BEFORE I REPLACE IT. I DID MAKE A BACK UP LIKE YOU SUGGESTED FOR TEMPORARY USE. NOT MY GREATES WORK BUT IT DID THE JOB. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR THE ADVICE. I CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::cheers::firstplace:

:clap: :clap: :clap:....Your welcome etc.etc.etc. :roflblack:.......OK , so do you know how to put in a new one if the dealer isn't going to do this ????.... if not I can tell you what you need to do..........Glad my method worked for you :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:.....Mike .... PS, I'm curious as to what on the cable broke....it's a pretty sturdy item that's not too stressed.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

CABLE BROKE

IT WAS BROKEN ABOUT 6-8 INCHES FROM THE LATCH. NO SIGN OF TAMPERING. PLASTIC SLEEVE WAS INTACT..........THAT SLEEVE IS ONLY PLASTIC COATED .....IT IS ACTUALLY A SEMI-FLEXIBLE METAL TUBE ....WITH THE CABLE INSIDE.....IT'S VERY SIMILAR TO THE BRAKE CABLES ON BICYCLES..........DID THE WIRE CABLE ITSELF BREAK OR DID THE END FERRULE COME OFF ......BECAUSE IF IT'S THE FERRULE THAT CAN BE FIXED.......MIKE :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: YOUR GUESS IS AS GOOD AS MINE.
IT WILL BE A WHILE BEFORE I REPLACE IT. I DID MAKE A BACK UP LIKE YOU SUGGESTED FOR TEMPORARY USE. NOT MY GREATES WORK BUT IT DID THE JOB. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR THE ADVICE. I CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::cheers::firstplace:

......SEE ABOVE IN RED.......MIKE