If the front wheel rotor has the same diameter as the rear---cutting & inputting all 3 speed sensors to the ECM would produce the same effect as riding in a straight line. Digital frequency is nothing more than pulses & all 3 wheels use them. Unless the ratio from the front is different than that from the rear---how else could it produce a problem??
The tires are different ODs. Front is about 22.1", rear about 23.9". The pulses per foot of travel will be different unless the rear rotor is larger and has more slits for the sensor to count.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Hi,
I agree with some of the previous "speakers", I came from the quad/ATV community before I bought my first Spyder and there it was a natural thing to tune it in every possible way, air filter, exhaust and software
In the Spyder community on the other hand there is no one even talking about tuning and no one seem to do it, strange.....
Powercommander 5 is available for Spyder but not for all year models, and I used that together with autotune on my Yamaha Raptor 700 which gave quite a lot extra power.
There is also a swedish company called Vtech/Maptun which has specialized in upgrades for "power sport" vehicles lika snowmobiles (Skidoo), water crafts (Seadoo) and also Spyder´s and ATV´s.
When I talked to them they told me they have sold a lot of Spyder software upgrades especially to the US.
Their software stage 2 together with muffler replacement pipe (cat delete) gives a raise from 115 hp to 140 hp
I completely agree. You hit the nail on the head in regard to the other BRP lines. It isn't just an age thing tho. Like you mentioned, some would appreciate the extra power for towing a trailer, others that put a lot of highway miles on would surely appreciate extra power in the top end for passing and getting past tractor trailers before they get blown off the road or ran over. In my mind, it is better to have too much HP / torque an not need it, than need it only to find you don't have it. Sometimes, having the power to get out of the way in a hurry is a safety feature like having good brembo brakes, ABS, stability control, etc. Anyone that feels they don't need more power doesn't have to twist the throttle as far, or they could offer different performance packages like you had suggested.
Even if younger generations couldn't afford it, they would wait until the used priced dropped enough that they could afford it, just like they do, he'll...we all probably did, with sports cars and muscle cars. Show me a 20 year old that wouldn't love to have a Hellcat, or a ZL1 Camero, a Z06 Corvette, or a Shelby or Rouch Mustang. They can't afford them, but you better believe they will be picking up used ones when they get into their price range. When they do finally get one they will tell everyone how they have wanted one for years and finally got it! That is what the motorcycle manufacturers are missing and don't seem to understand. You get customers based on the products you produce that everyone wants, even if they can't afford it. Instead of producing something that people think... I get one of those when I can't ride a 2 wheeler any more, or because my significant other thinks they are safer.
It needs to be something they want because cause they are a f_cking blast to ride. That would be the case with better performance and handling, even if it is only on one model.
I find it amazing that I'm able to buy a 2018 Ford Mustang GT with almost all the luxury add on features for under $50K--base Mustang GT with standard luxury for $40 K range--not to far off from the loaded Spyder. The base GT 460 HP hits 0-60 in 4 sec or less--seats 4--air conditioned-stability features on the upper end the Spyder hasn't even thought of--10 spd automatic trans, 3 yr standard warranty. Makes no logic to me.
Darrell
2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black
I find it amazing that I'm able to buy a 2018 Ford Mustang GT with almost all the luxury add on features for under $50K--base Mustang GT with standard luxury for $40 K range--not to far off from the loaded Spyder. The base GT 460 HP hits 0-60 in 4 sec or less--seats 4--air conditioned-stability features on the upper end the Spyder hasn't even thought of--10 spd automatic trans, 3 yr standard warranty. Makes no logic to me.
Darrell
I believe we can thank the high end motorcycle market, led by HD for the high prices. The market appears ready to pay $20-$35K for high end motorcycles. Conversely high end snowmobiles and seamobiles go for $15K. Volume also contributes I guess.
The other thing is, with the Mustang you can turn off most of the safety features if and when you want. They've even gone the other way and added things like variable exhaust and line lock. I guess Ford doesn't believe all its customers are idiots who will injure or kill themselves without muting power through s/w control.
2015 F3 SM6
Windscreen, bags, backrest, cowl, BajaRon anti-sway bar
Two Bros exhaust
There is also a swedish company called Vtech/Maptun which has specialized in upgrades for "power sport" vehicles lika snowmobiles (Skidoo), water crafts (Seadoo) and also Spyder´s and ATV´s.
When I talked to them they told me they have sold a lot of Spyder software upgrades especially to the US.
Their software stage 2 together with muffler replacement pipe (cat delete) gives a raise from 115 hp to 140 hp
$350.00 for 25 HP is a bargain compared to anything else in today's market...I'll be going with this ECM update, and hopefully the 89 T. rear sprocket by spring...
Thank You Dennis for the updated info...
larryd
Have to totally agree ! ... If you do the math that's a whopping 22% increase with a far more usable power band ... Don't forget we are talking only a motorcycles weight here, not that of a motor car. Power to weight ratio therefore is substantial. IMO its excellent value for money and a great start. Lots of people are happy to shell out the same sort of money on a cat delete alone which after fitting has been reported on here to be somewhere between about 5 to 8% increase if you are lucky and mostly to the middle of the power band.
I will also be paying return air freight internationally from Australia for my F3's remapping, and still reckon its good value compared to a Commander or other system at a grand and then still heading north .....
Even a bargain is only a bargain when it has been tried and proven. I am never one to have to (or want to) be the first guy on the block to try something.
That seems to be the norm around here. That is why you have people paying $30k+ for a spyder that I will pick up in 4-5 months from a dealer for $24k or less. I am patient and will wait until something is proven, or a bargain, and then spend my money.
But to each their own.
Got to go down the other route here ... For quite some time, even before getting my latest 2017 F3-T, I'd been scratching my head as to why BRP don't provide something anything in a true performance package for their Spyder range. Since starting, the Daytona 500 is partially there, but still far way off the mark. Its exactly the same as saying you could buy a 6 cylinder mustang years ago or go to the opposite end of the scale for the Shelby 'Mach' series ... (Only question in those days was, how deep are your pockets?) But in any case it came back to user pays ...
For months and months at that time .... I had been researching building a set of full length 3:1 length tuned headers / extractors, complete with an O2 sensor port for the 1330 triple. After all headers and length tuned extractors have been around almost as long as I have in one form or another for both cars and bikes. Its not rocket science ... stuff as much clean air and fuel in one side of an engine almost as fast as you can, then get rid of all those burnt gasses in the same manner out the opposite side (usually) ... again, just as fast as you can. Tweak, tune, squeeze, push and pull all whilst trying to make the best power and economy whilst endeavouring to minimalize 'heat' ...
Then all of a sudden, BRP dropped the carrot in with the bunnies in 2016 with the unveiling of their 150hp Concept Bike. However just as quickly (IMO), they turned their backs, dropped the ball and walked away. (and yes I now know in hindsight, it was only ever to be built as a promotional tool ..) When I first saw that I thought yehaaa, here we go, this is more like it.
Then I spotted 'that' exhaust ..... If you have a real close look at some of those pictures of the bike, you will see where BRP had Akropovic produce a complete set of straight through triple pipes .... (very, very close to the basics of what I am talking about here, but mine would be a 3:1 again with that O2 sensor port, so they could be made 'street legal' or at least 'semi' street legal ..) To this day almost 2 years later, to my knowledge there is still nothing about any where 'world wide' for better exhaust extraction for these frames and so I am still on the trail ...
My exact point is ... Why not? I am totally with Poseidon with his view point. Like him I have searched and searched and there is very, little aftermarket stuff out there at all for the Spyder owners to play and tweak .... I've been riding bikes on the street since I was probably 15 or so and I'm now 66. We used to alter and change and modify both bikes and cars ... 'hot' them up and experiment mostly I reckon so we could say 'yep I did that' as it was a good feeling to own that ride ... Still scratching my head just in this regard as headers and length tuned extractors have been around on bikes well ... just about as ling as I have, but again not for these ...
I think as long as there are engines about, some will want to invent, reinvent, tweak, squeeze and tune them to perfection. If not why did Henry ever invent his Ford?
Hi,
I agree with some of the previous "speakers", I came from the quad/ATV community before I bought my first Spyder and there it was a natural thing to tune it in every possible way, air filter, exhaust and software
In the Spyder community on the other hand there is no one even talking about tuning and no one seem to do it, strange.....
Powercommander 5 is available for Spyder but not for all year models, and I used that together with autotune on my Yamaha Raptor 700 which gave quite a lot extra power.
There is also a swedish company called Vtech/Maptun which has specialized in upgrades for "power sport" vehicles lika snowmobiles (Skidoo), water crafts (Seadoo) and also Spyder´s and ATV´s.
When I talked to them they told me they have sold a lot of Spyder software upgrades especially to the US.
Their software stage 2 together with muffler replacement pipe (cat delete) gives a raise from 115 hp to 140 hp
Its now very late March 2018 and their site is still saying in development for the stage 2 for my F3-T ... I fired them off an email querying where things are up to on this so we will see what eventuates ... Having said that I would always rather 'wait' a while for the smoke to clear as inevitably there will be updates as with any new electronics release ...
Reading a real lot on here about cutting and splicing sensors ... For my 10 cents worth having been all my life in electronics both ground and aircraft related (with both civil and military) all over the world ... I would tread very lightly with wanting too just cut and splice anything without a workshop diagram and explanation of what's for what ... So to that regard I went off to my F3-T full workshop manual and had a squiz at the CAN Buss system ... H'mmm, I'll attach it for you here ... as it turns out its not ..."just a pair of twisted wires with a basic digital system" and nor is any other closed Buss communication system. These type of Buss systems often employ 'PWM' Pulse Width Modulation which will change the binary State from a 1 to a 0 or visa versa or in our talk a yes to a no or again visa versa .... be careful .... enjoy ....
Last edited by fatenhappy; 03-30-2018 at 03:35 AM.
Sean,
I've hear a just a few mods, not sure about the 1300's though. You can obviously change the air intake, exhaust, cat delete. In the earlier days some even played around with a juice box and PCV, not sure if it was an auto tune. But, whenever someone tried to find out the "actual" gains I never have read here that someone was able to Dyno to verify this Hp/Tq gains. So even with the ECU flash, which seems to be the current wave for increasing "hp/tq" until there is an actual way to Dyno, we wont know what the actual "performance" gains are.
Which brings up a question I have. If the Spyder currently cant be Dynoed, then how is BRP making the claim of 100+HP? Wonder if they are just using their good "ole" math to calculate? Similar to the same guy that says the tank can hold 5+ gallons of gas. I would by the guy a round trip plane ticket to prove it can be done on our Spyder.
But they can be dyno' ... BUT, you have to have the spec maintenance computer and access to the BRP 'bench mode' diagnostics page ... Plug the thing in and hook the PC up the diagnostics, ... scroll down until you come to 'Turn Speed Sensors OFF' and there you go ... all three sensors are isolated and dyno runs are achievable
Last edited by fatenhappy; 04-17-2018 at 11:21 PM.
This information is correct with a twist. The RT & F3 base will default back out of that mode if the handle bars turn more than 3 degrees while on the dyno.
The latest F3S can be put into that mode through the dash options but is still sensitive to the 3 degree handle bar movement.
The Daytona can be put into the mode through a dash option plus you can turn the handle bars all you want.
I have two available service shops with dynos and neither will take the risk trying to figure out how to get the machine on a cycle dyno.
Monster fuel the flash provider has a Dyno available for testing at a near by service shop and is suppose to be working on a stage 2 turbo.
I have yet to see them post ANY results on their web page. It's time for them to poop or get off the potty. My butt Dyno tells me I'm up 20% across the board, But,
SHOW ME THE MONEY MONSTER FUEL.
Dennis
Originally Posted by fatenhappy
But they can be dyno' ... BUT, you have to have the spec maintenance computer and access to the BRP 'bench mode' diagnostics page ... Plug the thing in and hook the PC up the diagnostics, ... scroll down until you come to 'Turn Speed Sensors OFF' and there you go ... all three sensors are isolated and dyno runs are achievable
I must be missing something here. Who says that you have to have the engine in the bike to dyno ?
It can be dyno tested on a stand - same as a car. So long buds, nanny and all other computer controls.
als
As for the ECU reflash, I have a 2015 RT Limited, with a one piece exhaust and the muffler is a fiberglass wrapped can, on the free flowing side. I can't give you horse power numbers, or drag strip times but will say that seat of the pants, my RT seems to have better throttle response, and is smoother running over the whole rpm range. With my wife on the back, it easily spins the rear tire thru 1st gear, I was taking off from a driveway,and had no need to do any more. The same thing whne passing a car on the road, from 65 mph in stead of having to down shift three times like I normally do (and I will say that I have hit the rev limiter (8300 rpm) a couple of times while passing) I only had to downshift twice to get the needed acceleration. Just about the time I felt it was time to shift our of 4th I glanced a the the tach it was at 8500 rpm and so smooth I didn't want to believe it. I can't say any more except my RT is somoother now what ever rpm I'm at, has better throttle responce, and my gas mileage is about the same as it was before, as long as I behave my self. I have no regrets, and the folks at Wick-It Performance ( in La.) were absoultely great to work with. I'm not a street racer or anything like that, but when I ask, I expect performance back. the only wrecks I've had have been on the race track, I've had, and think I understand performance. I've owned a Kawasaki H2 that was warmed over, a Kawasaki Z1, a 170 mph Ducati, and the first Yamaha V-Max in Jacksonville Florida in 1984. I've only been riding for 58 years, so I guess I am really too old to be doing this, I'll be 79 on July 4th.
That ECU flash gives you so much more than just speed, it makes riding two up more enjoyable, and I think my RT is a much nicer all around street bike.
David VonStein
Middleburg, Florida
Last edited by Devious56; 04-19-2018 at 07:49 AM.
How old would you be if you didn't know how old you were?
Its now very late March 2018 and their site is still saying in development for the stage 2 for my F3-T ... I fired them off an email querying where things are up to on this so we will see what eventuates ... Having said that I would always rather 'wait' a while for the smoke to clear as inevitably there will be updates as with any new electronics release ...
I called them today asking about theit webpage, because I have earlier been able to find stage 1 and 2 for Spyders on the site.
He told me the homepage is under reconstruction and because of that some of the content has temporarily been lost.
The best way to contact them now for inquires is to send an e-mail to info@maptun.com . Write in the Subject that it´s about upgrade to a Spyder
This information is correct with a twist. The RT & F3 base will default back out of that mode if the handle bars turn more than 3 degrees while on the dyno.
The latest F3S can be put into that mode through the dash options but is still sensitive to the 3 degree handle bar movement.
The Daytona can be put into the mode through a dash option plus you can turn the handle bars all you want.
I have two available service shops with dynos and neither will take the risk trying to figure out how to get the machine on a cycle dyno.
Monster fuel the flash provider has a Dyno available for testing at a near by service shop and is suppose to be working on a stage 2 turbo.
I have yet to see them post ANY results on their web page. It's time for them to poop or get off the potty. My butt Dyno tells me I'm up 20% across the board, But,
SHOW ME THE MONEY MONSTER FUEL.
Dennis
As for the ECU reflash, I have a 2015 RT Limited, with a one piece exhaust and the muffler is a fiberglass wrapped can, on the free flowing side. I can't give you horse power numbers, or drag strip times but will say that seat of the pants, my RT seems to have better throttle response, and is smoother running over the whole rpm range. With my wife on the back, it easily spins the rear tire thru 1st gear, I was taking off from a driveway,and had no need to do any more. The same thing whne passing a car on the road, from 65 mph in stead of having to down shift three times like I normally do (and I will say that I have hit the rev limiter (8300 rpm) a couple of times while passing) I only had to downshift twice to get the needed acceleration. Just about the time I felt it was time to shift our of 4th I glanced a the the tach it was at 8500 rpm and so smooth I didn't want to believe it. I can't say any more except my RT is somoother now what ever rpm I'm at, has better throttle responce, and my gas mileage is about the same as it was before, as long as I behave my self. I have no regrets, and the folks at Wick-It Performance ( in La.) were absoultely great to work with. I'm not a street racer or anything like that, but when I ask, I expect performance back. the only wrecks I've had have been on the race track, I've had, and think I understand performance. I've owned a Kawasaki H2 that was warmed over, a Kawasaki Z1, a 170 mph Ducati, and the first Yamaha V-Max in Jacksonville Florida in 1984. I've only been riding for 58 years, so I guess I am really too old to be doing this, I'll be 79 on July 4th.
That ECU flash gives you so much more than just speed, it makes riding two up more enjoyable, and I think my RT is a much nicer all around street bike.
David VonStein
Middleburg, Florida
That's exactly what I have been looking for ..... and I loved the video ... Stay safe and appreciate your expertise
Hi,
I agree with some of the previous "speakers", I came from the quad/ATV community before I bought my first Spyder and there it was a natural thing to tune it in every possible way, air filter, exhaust and software
We must have gone to different High Schools together!
I also rose up out of the mud: I had a perfectly good 2004 Grizzly 660...
Before I knew it: I had THIS!
Okay Spyder People, where are we on the performance upgrades that have been bantered about in this thread? I am now 67 years old. I ride a BMW K1600 GTL two wheeler. Horsepower rating is about 160ish. I am on my 4th K1600 now and love the bike, but in all honesty I pretty much baby the thing 98 to 99 percent of the time. I have owned Harleys prior to 2002 and went thru all the hoops to make more horsepower with them, but in the end it was like putting lipstick on a pig and in 2005 and made the switch to BMW. So about 3 or so years ago I get this urge to take a hard look at getting a Spyder. I am getting older and liked the thought of having three wheels under me instead of two and the Spyder looked like a hoot to ride. So I go to two different Spyder dealers and take a few Spyders for test rides. Now I have spent quite a bit of time in my Harley days riding trikes and sidecars, but initially the Spyder was quite different and fun. So eventually I take the Spyders out on the interstate and that's where things changed. Once on the Big Road it felt like I left half the engine on the on-ramp. The Spyder didn't handle bad and I had been warned about how to grip the handlebars etc., but talk about lack of power....OMG where did it all go? To me the Spyders where struggling just to keep up traffic let alone trying pass anything.
I still like the premise behind the Spyder, but man-oh-man it needs more horsepower! I started looking for information on doing some mods to a Spyder to make more power and it was like looking at a picture of the desert. Nothing was out there. Nobody was apparently venturing into this uncharted land, nor did it appear there was any interest in doing so. Truth be told people my age are not going to be able to sustain production of Spyders indefinitely. I have a news flash for BRP, younger potential owners want power and speed! They are not all sitting around playing computer games as some people would have you believe and they really do have some disposable income. When they spend that income they want to feel like they got something worthwhile and exciting for their investment. If you give people a Spyder with 150 to 160 horsepower that will give them excitement, but they certainly aren't going to shell out $30K for a so-so Spyder when that same money will get them into a Subaru WRX or similar vehicle. If you build an exciting vehicle for a reasonable price they will buy it. I also own a 2017 Australian built Chevrolet SS and that car was an absolute steal when I bought it.
So here we are, 3 years or so later and I still find the Spyder concept interesting, but no real movement on performance gains. I almost had myself talked into revisiting a Spyder dealer and taking a test ride, but then I asked myself why? From what I have read in this thread nothing has changed in performance with the Spyder and other than some off-shoot experimentation of a limited number of aftermarket companies, nothing is happening on the outside either. How sad...….
Okay Spyder People, where are we on the performance upgrades that have been bantered about in this thread? I am now 67 years old. I ride a BMW K1600 GTL two wheeler. Horsepower rating is about 160ish. I am on my 4th K1600 now and love the bike, but in all honesty I pretty much baby the thing 98 to 99 percent of the time. I have owned Harleys prior to 2002 and went thru all the hoops to make more horsepower with them, but in the end it was like putting lipstick on a pig and in 2005 and made the switch to BMW. So about 3 or so years ago I get this urge to take a hard look at getting a Spyder. I am getting older and liked the thought of having three wheels under me instead of two and the Spyder looked like a hoot to ride. So I go to two different Spyder dealers and take a few Spyders for test rides. Now I have spent quite a bit of time in my Harley days riding trikes and sidecars, but initially the Spyder was quite different and fun. So eventually I take the Spyders out on the interstate and that's where things changed. Once on the Big Road it felt like I left half the engine on the on-ramp. The Spyder didn't handle bad and I had been warned about how to grip the handlebars etc., but talk about lack of power....OMG where did it all go? To me the Spyders where struggling just to keep up traffic let alone trying pass anything.
I still like the premise behind the Spyder, but man-oh-man it needs more horsepower! I started looking for information on doing some mods to a Spyder to make more power and it was like looking at a picture of the desert. Nothing was out there. Nobody was apparently venturing into this uncharted land, nor did it appear there was any interest in doing so. Truth be told people my age are not going to be able to sustain production of Spyders indefinitely. I have a news flash for BRP, younger potential owners want power and speed! They are not all sitting around playing computer games as some people would have you believe and they really do have some disposable income. When they spend that income they want to feel like they got something worthwhile and exciting for their investment. If you give people a Spyder with 150 to 160 horsepower that will give them excitement, but they certainly aren't going to shell out $30K for a so-so Spyder when that same money will get them into a Subaru WRX or similar vehicle. If you build an exciting vehicle for a reasonable price they will buy it. I also own a 2017 Australian built Chevrolet SS and that car was an absolute steal when I bought it.
So here we are, 3 years or so later and I still find the Spyder concept interesting, but no real movement on performance gains. I almost had myself talked into revisiting a Spyder dealer and taking a test ride, but then I asked myself why? From what I have read in this thread nothing has changed in performance with the Spyder and other than some off-shoot experimentation of a limited number of aftermarket companies, nothing is happening on the outside either. How sad...….
Rick H.
Dear Rick, you made a wrong turn somewhere, this is NOT BMW forum .......... Google Monster Fuel ..... Mike
Okay Spyder People, where are we on the performance upgrades that have been bantered about in this thread?....
I still like the premise behind the Spyder, but man-oh-man it needs more horsepower!.....
The issue may very well be that you envision yourself as belonging to a much larger power hungry group than what in reality exists. The potential market may just not be there in the numbers you think. And then, the days of reshaping camshafts and heads to get more power are pretty much gone. It's a computer world, and the Can Am engine is a computer connected to a mechanical rotating system. You can bet the programming that runs the 1330 is probably ten times as complicated as what took the astronauts to the moon. Reverse engineering software is a non-starter unless the potential market is large enough to recover millions in programming costs. BRP is targeting the vast middle area of the potential market, and as I said, power hungry riders aren't part of the middle third of the curve. By your own admission you don't use the power offering of your BMW very much at all. BRP most likely is satisfied to provide a machine for the 95 out of 100 who are potential owners. There's nothing to be gained by going after the other 5 if it adds a lot of cost to the machine.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
When my warranty runs out I will be looking at ways to improve performance. My wife is tired of following my on our (her) Goldwing when I am unable to accelerate around a vehicle on a mountain road due to lack of HP. There have been times when she has come on the Sena and asked "what's wrong?" when I tell her I was at full throttle and can't go any faster. I'm not a speed junkie and I am well over 70 years old. But I don't want my ass hanging out in an oncoming lane any longer than necessary when I pass a slow vehicle.
2005 Windveil Blue Premium Mustang Convertible
2008 Honda GL1800/California Sidecar Trike, SOLD
2014 Platinum Silver Satin Spyder RTL, SOLD
Semper Fi
When my warranty runs out I will be looking at ways to improve performance. My wife is tired of following my on our (her) Goldwing when I am unable to accelerate around a vehicle on a mountain road due to lack of HP. There have been times when she has come on the Sena and asked "what's wrong?" when I tell her I was at full throttle and can't go any faster. I'm not a speed junkie and I am well over 70 years old. But I don't want my ass hanging out in an oncoming lane any longer than necessary when I pass a slow vehicle.
I've always contended that high end torque is lacking with both engines, 998 and 1330, although the 1330 is a lot better. I almost always drop into 5th to pass a truck. Acceleration is fairly decent in 5th and you can wind it up to 80 with no problem.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
I've always contended that high end torque is lacking with both engines, 998 and 1330, although the 1330 is a lot better. I almost always drop into 5th to pass a truck. Acceleration is fairly decent in 5th and you can wind it up to 80 with no problem.
I often drop down to 4th, especially when pulling the trailer. But more guts would be beneficial. I agree that the top end torque is lacking.....
2005 Windveil Blue Premium Mustang Convertible
2008 Honda GL1800/California Sidecar Trike, SOLD
2014 Platinum Silver Satin Spyder RTL, SOLD
Semper Fi
When BRP came out with the F3 and they wanted them to perform better they simply put a 89 tooth rear sprocket on that machine...What BRP should have also offered was a 89 T. rear sprocket upgrade for the heaver RT machines which are more often ridden two up and many of us are pulling trailers...
The sprocket and belt are a simple bolt on for the RT from the F3...The problem is in the computer part of the puzzle...
Steve at Monster Fuel Injection is working with several sources to try and make this happen...