Has anyone actually tried to move the brake pedal on the spline to see if in fact that's going to work? See post #12
Sorry Tim, but your question has really confused me, since YOU said in post #12 that you tried it and it didn’t work as the splines were too coarse. Am I missing something? (Wouldn’t be the first time)
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
Has anyone actually tried to move the brake pedal on the spline to see if in fact that's going to work? See post #12
As the OP of post #12 mentioned, moving the pedal on the spline doesn't work - in fact, it can't work because the actuating rod length will still remain the same - and without changing the pedal lever itself, it's that rod length that determines the pedal height....
Given that you have a fixed brake cyl piston position; a given length actuating rod; a fixed pedal pivot point (albeit with splines to allow proper positioning for brake actuation); and a fixed length pedal lever...... moving the pedal on the spline is really only likely to mess up the brake actuation, either forcing the brakes to be ON all the time, or it'll mean the pedal 'push length' probably won't ever fully apply them!
So the only real solutions to change the pedal height involve either moving the fixed points at each end, which is sorta hard to do & so unlikley; or to change the rod &/or pedal lever length, and it's a fair bit easier to change the rod length than it is to modify/replace the pedal lever itself - even if it's just by drilling a new hole in the connecting yoke on the end of the rod.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-05-2021 at 03:50 PM.
As the OP of post #12 mentioned, moving the pedal on the spline doesn't work - in fact, it can't work because the actuating rod length will still remain the same - and without changing the pedal lever itself, it's that rod length that determines the pedal height....
Given that you have a fixed brake cyl piston position; a given length actuating rod; a fixed pedal pivot point (albeit with splines to allow proper positioning for brake actuation); and a fixed length pedal lever...... moving the pedal on the spline is really only likely to mess up the brake actuation, either forcing the brakes to be ON all the time, or it'll mean the pedal 'push length' probably won't ever fully apply them!
So the only real solutions to change the pedal height involve either moving the fixed points at each end, which is sorta hard to do & so unlikley; or to change the rod &/or pedal lever length, and it's a fair bit easier to change the rod length than it is to modify/replace the pedal lever itself - even if it's just by drilling a new hole in the connecting yoke on the end of the rod.
I think what Timmb was saying on post #12 that moving it one spline position lowered it to much.
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.
Sorry for the confusion I posted that in reference to Post 25 where he asked if anyone had actually tried it. I did, it doesn't work the pedal much too low if you can move it. Actually I remember now the spline is indexed you can't change it.
The brake rod is the answer. Similar to what was done with the f3. I relocated the hole on my f3. As you can see from the picture they put stops on these and you can't just slide it forward or back. You either have to grind off the stop and you could redrill. Or shorten the bar. One hole with is about a quarter of an inch drops the pedal one half an inch. I have a spare bar from my f3 that's to long I might play with it to modify it and see how that works.
I mocked up a spare F3 bar I had. An eighth of an inch shorter drops it 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch. I don't think you want to go more than an inch. I'm sure Lamont will make a solid replacement bar if there's enough demand. Like the ones he made for the F3. No one wants the liability of an adjustable bar.
Brilliant.....thanks Tim. I might need the pedal to go 2” if I drop the boards an inch or so lower. Just by way of “speculation” based on your experience, do you think it would be possible to take a half inch off the bar to drop the pedal 2”, or is that out of the question?
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
As the OP of post #12 mentioned, moving the pedal on the spline doesn't work
Yeah, Pete, but that’s what confused me. The poster of #12 was Timmb, and it was Timmb asking in post #27 if anyone had tried moving the brake pedal on the spline . As you know, I am easily confused ....... Tim has now clarified in a later post
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
Brilliant.....thanks Tim. I might need the pedal to go 2” if I drop the boards an inch or so lower. Just by way of “speculation” based on your experience, do you think it would be possible to take a half inch off the bar to drop the pedal 2”, or is that out of the question?
Pete
Pete, I think your going to run into trouble trying to lower your boards with your Lamonster kit idea. I took a close look under the boards at the brake lever today. The brake arm/lever runs about a 1/2" from the bottom of the boards until in bends up through the cutout opening in the boards. I took a picture to try to show it.
I don't think you can go much more than an inch drop without losing the leverage you need to be safe.
Even in the normal course of events, Peteoz has got plenty of leverage!
But even so, if he ever needs to 'stand' on the brake pedal, you can be assured that pedal will bloody well stay stood on!
I think it's got something to do with his 'well over 6ft tall height & 300(+?) Lbs of weight..... Oh, and maybe his size 'freakin ginormous' boots too!
Good thing he's a gentle fella.... you are, aren't you Pete?? . Now come on Pete, it was only a little joke.... orright already, maybe not quite that little, but still
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-06-2021 at 08:53 PM.
Pete, I think your going to run into trouble trying to lower your boards with your Lamonster kit idea. I took a close look under the boards at the brake lever today. The brake arm/lever runs about a 1/2" from the bottom of the boards until in bends up through the cutout opening in the boards. I took a picture to try to show it.
Mike
Bugger........thanks, Mike, that’s very good of you to have a look. Might be a set of floorboard risers going to a lucky Aussie recipient shortly. I’ll see how they go IF the new RTs ever arrive in Oz.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
Good thing he's a gentle fella.... you are, aren't you Pete?? . Now come on Pete, it was only a little joke.... orright already, maybe not quite that little, but still
Hahaha......yep, I’m a gentle fellow, Peter, but my “twin” isn’t. I’m sending him around to have a chat to you. I’m the “Danny DeVito” of the pair
.......and yeah, leverage is not something I’m in short supply of
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
.....and just as an aside, those size 15s do create issues. I have used Lamont’s lowering rod to get the brake down a little, to a more reachable position on my F3-L, and I was occasionally not finding the brakes working well. Turns out, with the lower pedal, and my heel well behind the pedal, I am occasionally contacting the top of the OEM bracket holding the board with my insole, without even realising it
I can’t use the wider pedal as it pushes my boot off the board, so I have had to adapt to keeping my boot heel further out on the board to take the top of the bracket out of play. Not really related to lowering the pedal on the 20RT, but just for info.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
Today on Slingmods I found an oversized brake pedal by Show Chrome, part No SM-8320 which will fit the 2021 RT-L.
Description says 4-3/8"x3".
I called them to ask if the 3" height was taller than the OEM - they told me yes.
So... the width is great but this pedal seems to be even taller than the OEM on the bike... bummer!
I need it lower and wide.
Thinking about rigging a riser on TOP of the floorboard to shorten the stride between the seat and floorboard.
Just to experiment I would put some type of platform to set my foot on - on top of the existing floorboard - and secure it with velcro - initially - just to see if that would help in transitioning to the brake pedal without having to lift the foot so high.
The floorboards are just right for me now and I hate to raise the foot higher - which puts more cramp on the knee.... we'll see.
Today on Slingmods I found an oversized brake pedal by Show Chrome, part No SM-8320 which will fit the 2021 RT-L.
Description says 4-3/8"x3".
I called them to ask if the 3" height was taller than the OEM - they told me yes.
So... the width is great but this pedal seems to be even taller than the OEM on the bike... bummer!
I need it lower and wide.
Thinking about rigging a riser on TOP of the floorboard to shorten the stride between the seat and floorboard.
Just to experiment I would put some type of platform to set my foot on - on top of the existing floorboard - and secure it with velcro - initially - just to see if that would help in transitioning to the brake pedal without having to lift the foot so high.
The floorboards are just right for me now and I hate to raise the foot higher - which puts more cramp on the knee.... we'll see.
As soon as weather clears up....it's exactly what I'm going to try. If it works probably get the floorboards riser provided the shorten leg position is to much of a negative.
I had a BPE prake pedal extension on my 2017 RTL and just picked up my new 2021 RTL and agree the pedal is high. The folks that designed the one for the 2019 and older is now working on one for me and others that have a similar request. I really liked the angled extension that allowed my toe to actuate the brake. I m providing photos and dimensions to their design guy and I hope they can provide one for me soon. Once I get it installed I would be happy to share the photos and my test results. the guys at refined cycle made a nice product for me and I bet the new one will be great too. I have no business association other than offering dimensions and details from my 2021 RTL.
Today added a Utopia backrest. It is a quality item. BUT judgement out on its worth. First off, my mockup raising the floorboards 1.5 inches does not work after adding the backrest. So even more interested now with bill4029 possible fix to the high brake pedal.
Amazing how one change impacts the riding experience.
Today added a Utopia backrest. It is a quality item. BUT judgement out on its worth. First off, my mockup raising the floorboards 1.5 inches does not work after adding the backrest. So even more interested now with bill4029 possible fix to the high brake pedal.
Amazing how one change impacts the riding experience.
Not sure why raising the floorboards wouldn't work with the Utopia backrest. I have the Utopia backrest on my '21 RT and I just installed the Lamonster floorboard risers. The FEEL is different (although I'll get used to that) but I think it works well. I'll need to adjust the backrest so it's farther back (tilt) due to the different leg angle but overall, I think the feel is better. I can almost keep my heel on the 'board now when I go for the brake pedal although I have motion issues in my ankles. I hope to go on a longer ride this weekend (if the weather holds and the dentist can fix my broken tooth) to evaluate the raised 'boards a little more.
Not sure why raising the floorboards wouldn't work with the Utopia backrest. I have the Utopia backrest on my '21 RT and I just installed the Lamonster floorboard risers. The FEEL is different (although I'll get used to that) but I think it works well. I'll need to adjust the backrest so it's farther back (tilt) due to the different leg angle but overall, I think the feel is better. I can almost keep my heel on the 'board now when I go for the brake pedal although I have motion issues in my ankles. I hope to go on a longer ride this weekend (if the weather holds and the dentist can fix my broken tooth) to evaluate the raised 'boards a little more.
I took all the backwards adjustments out of the backrest and still didn't feel right. I actually thought of removing the adjuster so the thickness of the retaining nut would give me more adjustment but instead took my mocked up off the floorboards. A much better feel fell into place then. I was also thinking of that 2" handlebar riser.....now I'm less sure I want it.
I took all the backwards adjustments out of the backrest and still didn't feel right. I actually thought of removing the adjuster so the thickness of the retaining nut would give me more adjustment but instead took my mocked up off the floorboards. A much better feel fell into place then. I was also thinking of that 2" handlebar riser.....now I'm less sure I want it.
That's the 1st thing I've done to all (3) of my Utopia backrests. I like to adjust it on the fly or depending on how many layers I'm wearing that day.
Originally Posted by Michaelscs
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. As you know, I am easily confused 
