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Very light scraping while loading - should I worry?
Hello, I have a 2014 Spyder RT and an Aluma aluminum utility trailer with a 6x10 bed and a foldable ramp. Loading Spyder front first, the nose barely and briefly touches the second and third bar of the ramp, before the front wheels reach the beginning of the ramp. It is so mild that I didn’t notice that until my wife who was standing on the sidewalk by the trailer pointed that out. I read about using additional ramps to lift up the nose when loading, but I am wondering if I really need to do that given that the nose barely touches the ramp. I don’t have any way to look under the nose to see if there is any damage from scraping, but some scratches under the nose don’t bother me if that is the only damage (a cracked or broken part may be a different story). Any thoughts about that? Thanks.
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Very Active Member
Do you have a skid plate from one of the vendors? If so, I wouldn't worry. Stick your hand underneath to feel if there are any deep gouges. Tom
Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?
2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL
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Active Member
If you just laid down a 2x4 in front of the ramp it might solve your problem
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: 2017 RTL ORBITAL BLUE
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Very Active Member
I agree with Tango. If you don't have a bump skid the time bomb is ticking until you do some possibly serious damage to the front underside of your Spyder.
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otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Originally Posted by Tango
Do you have a skid plate from one of the vendors? If so, I wouldn't worry. Stick your hand underneath to feel if there are any deep gouges. Tom
Wouldn't that reduce the clearance even more and make the scraping worse?
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Originally Posted by JayBros
I agree with Tango. If you don't have a bump skid the time bomb is ticking until you do some possibly serious damage to the front underside of your Spyder.
Possible, although I don't have to load and unload the Spyder on the trailer more than a couple of times a year.
Using a mirror, this is what I can see underneath (not easy to see using a photo from the phone). With my finger I can definitely feel scratches but no cracks. And given that I just bought this Spyder less than a year ago and it is a 2014 model, I have no idea if these scratches are due to my loading it on the trailer or something else. Thanks!20191027_093831.jpg
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Originally Posted by spyder01
If you just laid down a 2x4 in front of the ramp it might solve your problem
Do you mean across the direction of the ramp (right to left)? I am not sure that would help, by the time the front wheels reach the ramp the nose has cleared it. I know I could use two ramps to extend the trailer ramp, but that is what I am trying to figure out and see if I can avoid it. Thanks!
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Cant you place some small ramps under the trailer ramp to avoid the scrapping?
When I had my Spyder towed recently he used some small short ramps to get me on his flat bed and never scrapped.
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Originally Posted by trikermutha
Cant you place some small ramps under the trailer ramp to avoid the scrapping?
When I had my Spyder towed recently he used some small short ramps to get me on his flat bed and never scrapped.
I think I could use additional ramps, but they would have to be ON the trailer ramp, not UNDER. Again, the scraping takes place BEFORE the front wheels reach the trailer ramp. Anything that elevates the trailer ramp is going to make the scraping even worse. I would have to use two ramps (one for each front wheel) and connect them to the 2nd or 3rd "step" of the trailer's ramp, so that when the nose reaches the trailer's ramps the two extensions have already lifted the front wheels, so the nose is now higher than before.
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Very Active Member
Put down the tongue jack on the trailer and raise the front of the trailer up a little bit. Even with it still attached to the towing vehicle, the tongue will go up a few inches. That might reduce the angle of the ramps enough to prevent any scraping. If that isn't enough you might try running the rear tires of the tow vehicle up on some scraps of 2X6.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
I second the tongue jack trick. A couple turns, no worries!
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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In addition to the concerns noted, I suggest you check to ensure that the center of the Spyder does not catch on the joint between the ramp and the trailer bed. I had this happen on my Drop-Tail trailer, which screwed up the reverse gear and required a repair. It seems that the piece in question would go on the trailer okay but catch when taking it off. I solved the problem the next time (post-repair) by adjusting the rear shock to maximum hardness and lifting the ramp a little when beginning to back off. This gives enough clearance. Although my trailer is different, the principle is the same.
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All good points. Thanks to all of you for the advice. I guess I will have to experiment and see what works.
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Active Member
Yes I mean across the width of the ramp.If a 2x4 doesn't work try a 2x6.
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: 2017 RTL ORBITAL BLUE
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Active Member
I agree with the guys about cranking the tongue jack down with it attached to the truck.If youre pulling it with a motorhome you may try that or using your stabilizers to pick the back up a little or your air suspension
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: 2017 RTL ORBITAL BLUE
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Active Member
I do the tongue jack trick. Leave connected and raise it an inch or two. Works perfect.
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If you lower the Spyder rear suspension, the nose will rise considerably. It might be the easy fix you need.
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