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2015 RTS Rear wheel/tire replacement - does it HAVE to go to a dealer?
The time has come, I am going to remove the rear wheel this weekend, (Supposed to rain most of the weekend).. Question is, I have searched youtube, I think I have the process down; however, it looks like I don't have the hub to remove, looks like I have a one piece wheel. If so, do I have to take the wheel and tire to the CANAM dealer for mounting and balance? I'd much rather just go to a tire place, I have a feeling the dealership wont want to just mount the tire (car tire) I have for the replacement. I know those guys, and would rather just not deal with them...
I haven't seen a video with a one piece wheel concerning a tire replacement, know of a youtube link? Please post it up...
I'm thankful for any suggestions....
Jim
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-28-2022 at 06:56 PM.
Reason: Removed Prefix - this is a 'How do I?' not a 'How to:' DIY explanation....
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my dealership put a new CAR tire on. some do, some don't. you can save money for sure by taking off and taking it somewhere. dealership did it the first time, i took it to discount tire for 2nd time, they can mount it, but can't spin balance it. so most fast tire change places should be able to swap tires at least, even walmart. (thats where i took my fronts tires for change and spin balance)
you can take off the rear sprocket, just pulls off. keep those rubber cushions in a pile, don't lose them.
2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400
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If you have a local tire shop, with the proper equipment to remove and mount tires on performance wheels, they should easily accomplish removal and installation of the tire.
The proper machine has “fingers” that grab and clamp the rims lower flange when on the tire machine.
An incorrect machine would attempt to secure the wheel through the rims center hole. On a Spyder, that is the rear axle hole and the axle bearing bore is small than the machines spindle.
Be aware, that when you remove the rear wheel, you should consider placing a reference mark to align the rear pulley. After marking, remove the pulley and drive cushions. The O ring is likely damaged and if desired can be replaced.
As for balancing, that is at your discretion since very few tire balancers can dynamically balance a Spyder rear wheel.
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Originally Posted by Woodaddict
my dealership put a new CAR tire on. some do, some don't. you can save money for sure by taking off and taking it somewhere. dealership did it the first time, i took it to discount tire for 2nd time, they can mount it, but can't spin balance it. so most fast tire change places should be able to swap tires at least, even walmart. (thats where i took my fronts tires for change and spin balance)
you can take off the rear sprocket, just pulls off. keep those rubber cushions in a pile, don't lose them.
Fronts are super easy, since any old tire machine will accept the front rim with large center hole for the hub.
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Originally Posted by Woodaddict
my dealership put a new CAR tire on. some do, some don't. you can save money for sure by taking off and taking it somewhere. dealership did it the first time, i took it to discount tire for 2nd time, they can mount it, but can't spin balance it. so most fast tire change places should be able to swap tires at least, even walmart. (thats where i took my fronts tires for change and spin balance)
you can take off the rear sprocket, just pulls off. keep those rubber cushions in a pile, don't lose them.
Yeah, I did the front tires a while back, that wasn't a problem. The rear since I have a single piece rear wheel will be a issue, trying like hell to NOT go to the dealer and listen to their crap why they can't or won't do something.... geeze, those guys are jerks... I figure the rear wheel/tire will need balanced, there quite a strip of lead on the inside of the wheel now.... I'm planning on tearing it down tomorrow while its raining out. I guess the dealer can balance somehow?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-28-2022 at 06:59 PM.
Reason: wasent - wasn't ;-)
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Stripping & fitting a good quality auto tire onto a single piece rear rim shouldn't be any more of an issue for any competent & caring tire tech than the multi-part rims, they're very much the same - just remove any bits that can be removed that might be damaged & take due care....
And when it comes to balancing, if the tire outlet you use doesn't have any current technology/capability of doing it properly (& I guess cos they have little call for anything as high tech as that gear, it seems few in your part of the World do.... ) it's not all that hard to do an old school static balance on a rear wheel.... Buuut, that said, a competent tech installing a good quality auto tire onto a reasonable quality rim properly, and aligning any balance & run-out marks as appropriate, shouldn't really need too much balancing anyway! When it comes to tbe rear of a Spyder, many don't bother getting their rear wheel balanced, and very few ever have any issues! Your choice tho.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-28-2022 at 10:27 PM.
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2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Originally Posted by Realtor
trying like hell to NOT go to the dealer and listen to their crap why they can't or won't do something.... geeze, those guys are jerks... I figure the rear wheel/tire will need balanced, there quite a strip of lead on the inside of the wheel now.... I'm planning on tearing it down tomorrow while its raining out. I guess the dealer can balance somehow?
the answer I got on my 2 wheeler when trying to ask dealer with bringing in MY own tire......" can't do that per insurance regulations". NO, the real answer is, you want to make MORE money to sell me a tire and mount. so if they won't put it on, probably won't spin balance either.
my first tire was mounted and spin balanced by dealer. 2nd one by discount tire, I didn't even bother to try to get it spin balanced. I have all 3 Centramatic wheel balancers.
guessing you have to rear OEM tire? with alot of weights, won't need them with better balanced car tire
2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400
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yes, currently have a kenda on the rear..
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I do not believe you have a one piece rim, what are you calling a one piece rim, the sprocket and rim is molded together??
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Stripping & fitting a good quality auto tire onto a single piece rear rim shouldn't be any more of an issue for any competent & caring tire tech than the multi-part rims, they're very much the same - just remove any bits that can be removed that might be damaged & take due care....
And when it comes to balancing, if the tire outlet you use doesn't have any current technology/capability of doing it properly (& I guess cos they have little call for anything as high tech as that gear, it seems few in your part of the World do.... ) it's not all that hard to do an old school static balance on a rear wheel.... Buuut, that said, a competent tech installing a good quality auto tire onto a reasonable quality rim properly, and aligning any balance & run-out marks as appropriate, shouldn't really need too much balancing anyway! When it comes to tbe rear of a Spyder, many don't bother getting their rear wheel balanced, and very few ever have any issues! Your choice tho.
...especially the " don't bother to balance the rear wheel " thing ..... I've done 5 or 6 rear tires and only balanced the first one..... All of them worked the same ..... JMHO .... Mike
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Realtor, I'm with Mikey, if you have a BRP rear wheel it's the same as any other stock rear wheel, though there are different colors
Carbon Black Rear Rim 705502130 or Metallic Silver - Rear Rim 705502089
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The one piece vs multi piece rear wheel that many earlier posts will mention is likely comparing where earlier models, up to 2015 I believe has the hub bolted to the rim. Later years, 2016 and after, the hub and rim are molded as one.
Some folks have removed the hub from the early style wheel to allow tire changing and balancing on typical equipment.
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well, its a rainy dreary day here in Pensacola. Got the wheel off, but it sure looks like a one piece wheel unless there is bolts under the brake disk, that I can't get off right now.... extremely tight. There is NO seam where the hub would be bolted to the wheel.... or where to 2 parts would mate together....
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Originally Posted by Realtor
well, its a rainy dreary day here in Pensacola. Got the wheel off, but it sure looks like a one piece wheel unless there is bolts under the brake disk, that I can't get off right now.... extremely tight. There is NO seam where the hub would be bolted to the wheel.... or where to 2 parts would mate together....
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If you have a 2018 as indicated in your signature, and the rear wheel is same as delivered with, then you have the one piece rear wheel. Granted, the driven pulley will pull straight off to remove it. As I already mentioned, put an alignment mark on the pulley and wheel to properly realign it on assembly.
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Originally Posted by PMK
If you have a 2018 as indicated in your signature, and the rear wheel is same as delivered with, then you have the one piece rear wheel. Granted, the driven pulley will pull straight off to remove it. As I already mentioned, put an alignment mark on the pulley and wheel to properly realign it on assembly.
This Bike is a 2015 RT, not looking forward to Monday looking for a tire shop that can change the tire on this wheel.
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Originally Posted by Realtor
This Bike is a 2015 RT, not looking forward to Monday looking for a tire shop that can change the tire on this wheel.
2015 should be two piece according to the parts books. The bolts that secure the hub to the wheel are behind the driven pulley.
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One piece hub, or two piece hub. It doesn't matter if you are just changing the tire. Just remove the sprocket and the brake disc. And no, don't bother balancing the thing. Tell them to line up the dot when the tire is installed. If a tire shop can't use their machine, then they can change it by hand. All it takes is a press to break the bead on the old tire and a couple of tire irons with rim protectors. Or is changing a tire by hand a lost art now? Regardless, what kind of hub you have doesn't matter. It's not involved.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Originally Posted by Realtor
well, its a rainy dreary day here in Pensacola. Got the wheel off, but it sure looks like a one piece wheel unless there is bolts under the brake disk, that I can't get off right now.... extremely tight. There is NO seam where the hub would be bolted to the wheel.... or where to 2 parts would mate together....
20221029_164707.jpg20221029_171402.jpg20221029_171443.jpg
There is no need to remove the brake rotor or the hub (if its removable on your wheel) unless you are replacing the bearings. Not needed or recommended to remove them for tire replacement.
And yes, I can see in the photos you have the newer style one piece wheel. The hub is cast in and not removable. 2015 was the transition year. All F3 got the new wheel, RT used the old ones until they ran out and then got the one piece. All Spyders since are one piece. The bearings last a LOT longer in the newer wheels due to the near perfect alignment that is machined in.
Last edited by jcthorne; 10-30-2022 at 06:17 AM.
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
There is no need to remove the brake rotor or the hub (if its removable on your wheel) unless you are replacing the bearings. Not needed or recommended to remove them for tire replacement.
And yes, I can see in the photos you have the newer style one piece wheel. The hub is cast in and not removable. 2015 was the transition year. All F3 got the new wheel, RT used the old ones until they ran out and then got the one piece. All Spyders since are one piece. The bearings last a LOT longer in the newer wheels due to the near perfect alignment that is machined in.
Good Information, I'll let the brake disk in place. Thanks, Jim
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After changing the tire, you can check the balance yourself. I use a pair of jackstands. Put the axle through the wheel, support the ends on the jackstands. Rotate the tire a bit to get the bearings moving freely, then slow it down manually. Note where the valve stem is when it stops. Give it a gentle shove, it does not have to go more than a rotation or two, note where the valve stem is when it stops. Do it a few times for consistency, then add a bit of weight at the top, if necessary. Rotate the tire 90°, see if it moves. Direction and speed will show you whether you need more or less weight, and how much more or less.
As others have hinted by their "no need to balance" comments, balancing the rear is not as critical as the front, so you only have to get it 'close'.
.
Last edited by Steve W.; 10-30-2022 at 09:59 AM.
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Originally Posted by Steve W.
After changing the tire, you can check the balance yourself. I use a pair of jackstands. Put the axle through the wheel, support the ends on the jackstands. Rotate the tire a bit to get the bearings moving freely, then slow it down manually. Note where the valve stem is when it stops. Give it a gentle shove, it does not have to go more than a rotation or two, note where the valve stem is when it stops. Do it a few times for consistency, then add a bit of weight at the top, if necessary. Rotate the tire 90°, see if it moves. Direction and speed will show you whether you need more or less weight, and how much more or less.
As others have hinted by their "no need to balance" comments, balancing the rear is not as critical as the front, so you only have to get it 'close'.
.
Thanks, I'll be doing this tomorrow....
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Done, I will say, after watching the YouTube vids, I used blue painters tape to secure the adjustment plates at the end of the swing arm in place, it looks as if everything is aligned exactly as it was before taking it apart. took a short ride before dark, I'll make a longer run tomorrow...
Oh, it took 4 tire shops to turn me down, then I went to Discount Tire, I was in and out of there in about 30 minutes.
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Originally Posted by Realtor
Done, I will say, after watching the YouTube vids, I used blue painters tape to secure the adjustment plates at the end of the swing arm in place, it looks as if everything is aligned exactly as it was before taking it apart. took a short ride before dark, I'll make a longer run tomorrow...
Oh, it took 4 tire shops to turn me down, then I went to Discount Tire, I was in and out of there in about 30 minutes.
20221031_165846.jpg20221031_165851.jpg
4 tire shops ..... I've had many rear tire changes over the past 12 years and they were done at different tire shops. ALL of them had NO issues with our wheels and their specific machines .... Commercial tire machines are pretty much the same. I think those shops had employee issues .... glad you got it done .... Mike
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Nice looking tire!!! Got to ask what brand did you get?
Last edited by Mikey; 11-01-2022 at 07:50 AM.
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