Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 72
  1. #1
    Active Member ff73148's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    72
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Downshifting vs Braking

    I'm a newer owner of a 2022 RT Limited. Coming from two wheels I've always been a fan of downshifting and using engine braking to slow down. I've been doing this with my Spyder rather than letting the bike downshift on it's own. Any issues with what I'm doing?
    Frank Ferrante
    2022 Can Am Spyder RT Limited Deep Marsala Metallic Dark
    2016 Moto Guzzi Eldorado

  2. #2
    Very Active Member PaladinLV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    1,081
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Absolutely NONE!
    I manually down shift 85% of the time.


    2014 RT-S
    Akrapovic Exhaust & Cat Bypass
    Bajaron Sway Bar w/links / Sena SM-10/Garmin 660
    Comfort Seat w Adjustable Backrest
    Decals by Purple Harley / Magic Strobe
    Kuryakyn Black Widow Pegs Rivco Highway Brackets
    Rivco Trunk Mounted Double Flag Holder
    FOBO / Spyder Cuff / XM Radio w MC Antenna

    2014 RT/S , Black

  3. #3
    SpyderLovers Ambassador Little Blue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    INDIANA, USA
    Posts
    6,730
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default Down Shifts

    Well, whatever you want to do. The Spyder will only do what it is program to do by the computer. Unless you have changed your computer 'black box'.

    So if you don't want to downshift use the brake.
    I generally use the engine to aid in my slowing down my Spyder. Just what I have been doing riding my bikes over the years.

    What is best I will let you decide. I am sure others will have their own thoughts on this.

    Stay Healthy. ....
    ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
    Ryde with a Friend and be Safe

    My Spyder .....'Little Blue-Boy'
    2016 RT Limited , Orbital Blue

  4. #4
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central VERMONT
    Posts
    20,269
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ff73148 View Post
    I'm a newer owner of a 2022 RT Limited. Coming from two wheels I've always been a fan of downshifting and using engine braking to slow down. I've been doing this with my Spyder rather than letting the bike downshift on it's own. Any issues with what I'm doing?
    My answer is going start a .... WAR .... I use my brakes 95% of the time (I have an SE trans w 1330 engine) I let the computer do the Downshifting ...... the other 5 % I downshift manually to stay in the power band in the Twisty's. .... Lots of folks will say the trans. is made to withstand the abuse created by "engine braking" .... IMHO (and many others) every time you subject metal to metal contact, this creates WEAR - period (this applies to the clutch also). I would rather buy brake pads then engine/ trans. parts..... let the fighting begin ... ..... Mike
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-21-2023 at 01:50 AM. Reason: meal - metal ;-)

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Bangorbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Pahrump NV
    Posts
    562
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Why would you start a war for doing what you want? At least we have choices. I do both depending on how I feel.
    2005 Roadtrek Chevy 210P
    2020 RT Limited-Chalk White SE6

  6. #6
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Australia; Sth Aust, Adelaide Hills
    Posts
    9,515
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    You can choose to use your brakes alone as you slow; or you can choose to shift down & engine brake if that's what you prefer; none of my business or anyone else's but yours - but it might pay you to keep in mind that these SE transmissions our Spyders run are, for all intents and purposes, still just MANUAL gearboxes, albeit with centrifugal clutches (SE5's) or oil pressure/hydraulic clutches(SE6's) and some pretty sexy electro/solenoid computer enacted flappy-paddle (thumb & fore-finger) initiated 'quick-shift' gear selection capabilities; and as such they have a FAIL-SAFE downshift feature built into the Transmission Control Module (TCM computer) that's designed and intended to make the down-shift for you if you ever happen to forget or if you apply too much throttle for the gear/road speed & so risk putting too much torque thru that (higher) gear &/or the clutch.

    So while the computer TCM has your back and won't let you do anything that'll likely cause damage, if you REALLY want to do what's best for you & the bike/its transmission & clutch, you'll ride & change gears exactly the same way you would for any other bike with a MANUAL gearbox.... and if that involves you choosing to coast &/or brake to slow down without personally initiating any changing down to match your revs/road speed & instead leaving all that to the Fail-Safe software programmed into the computer, that's OK - but so is initiating the gearchanges to match your slowing revs/road speed yourself; or even selecting the lower gears a bit early to help slow you down &/or stay in the power band/right rev range for that gear/road speed if you wish! Mind you, it might be a bit more important to practice either of those last two mentioned for riders of SE5 bikes, cos you can get a 'false neutral' when the centrifugal clutch starts to disengage if your revs drop low enough.... once your engine revs drop anything much below 3500 rpm the clutch will start to disengage and in some circumstances, that can see you free-wheeling... possibly at an ever-increasing speed if there's enough down-hill slope involved!!

    Still, the gearbox is made to handle either coasting to a stop &/or engine braking (or any other way besides ); if it wasn't, the gear teeth in the trans wouldn't have or need a bearing/contact face on each side of every tooth, but I reckon those're there for a pretty good reason; and besides, the computer won't let you do anything truly harmful to the clutch/trans/engine when changing gears anyway! Me, I personally ride/drive my Spyder as I would any other manually gearboxed bike/vehicle, and I generally initiate any necessary gearchange down-shifts myself, but not always - sometimes that might entail a bit of engine braking (ex-crashbox heavy vehicle driver here ) and sometimes it's just me matching revs & road speed to the gear selection seamlessly as I gently slow ( ); but I know that whatever way, the computer's got my back if I get it wrong occasionally, AND even if I completely forget to change down at all, or if I suddenly wrench the throttle wide open again in too high a gear for the given road speed!

    Just Sayin'
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-19-2023 at 09:29 PM.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  7. #7
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    787
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I use the paddle shift on a 1330/SE6 F3 almost exclusively vs letting the TCM do it for me. The computer does the minimum to keep the clutch engaged so you don't go into free wheeling/coasting mode; it doesn't look at engine performance, grade of the road, etc. The engine provides dynamic braking, especially useful when descending grades. Choose to use your brakes exclusively and let the TCM do it's minimal downshifting runs the risk of overheating the brakes and/or losing control of the machine. I ran big V-twins for 15 years/170K miles and never lost a clutch or transmission, relying on the additional engine braking. That includes riding 2-up, and/or pulling a trailer. Take any riding course and they will recommend use of the engine for additional brake and vehicle control.
    pauly1 - SpyderDeb's 'wrench'
    2018 F3-T & 2015 F3-S Road Warrior Foundation Tribute customs
    IBA #48220 SS1000 BB1500
    2015 F3-S , OEM na Basic Black with Custom Wrap

  8. #8
    Active Member Latrappe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2022
    Location
    Flaxton Queensland Australia
    Posts
    84
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I think it depends on the situation if you just use brakes only or gears or a combination of the two, as you all know Spyders stop a lot quicker than Two Wheelers or Cars, so it is not only the stopping it is what is creeping up behind you and are they going to stop, especially in an emergency stop and that is making sure you in the right gear to go

    My 2 Cents worth
    2019 Can Am Spyder F3S
    ICSI Ride Hand Brake Kit as my right leg and foot does not work that well due to MS
    The Ultimate F3 Floorboard
    Baja Ron Sway Bar
    Shad Saddle Bags
    Lamonster F3 PACKRACK
    SHAD 58X in Carbon finish - Expandable TOP Case
    Pedal Box
    IPS Belt Tensioner and Handlebar Riser from Lamonster
    K&N air filter
    INNOVV K5
    Whish List
    New Shocks Either Elka or Wilbers
    RLS CAT Delete
    I Should mention the Boss has a 900 Ryker Ralli next to my bike
    2018 F3S , Monolith Black

  9. #9
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Spring City,Utah
    Posts
    5,329
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ff73148 View Post
    I'm a newer owner of a 2022 RT Limited. Coming from two wheels I've always been a fan of downshifting and using engine braking to slow down. I've been doing this with my Spyder rather than letting the bike downshift on it's own. Any issues with what I'm doing?
    None at all, I have been riding my 2012 Spyder that way since I got it in 2015. Ride on and enjoy

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

    2012 RT L
    AMA 25 years Life Member
    TRA
    PGR
    Rhino Riders Plate #83
    Venturers #78
    TOI

    2012 Spyder RT L , Baja Ron Plugs and wires Lava Bronze

  10. #10
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Il
    Posts
    322
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    My answer is going start a .... WAR .... I use my brakes 95% of the time (I have an SE trans w 1330 engine) I let the computer do the Downshifting ...... the other 5 % I downshift manually to stay in the power band in the Twisty's. .... Lots of folks will say the trans. is made to withstand the abuse created by "engine braking" .... IMHO (and many others) every time you subject metal to metal contact, this creates WEAR - period (this applies to the clutch also). I would rather buy brake pads then engine/ trans. parts..... let the fighting begin ... ..... Mike
    I do the same and most of my riding is in the canyons.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-21-2023 at 01:52 AM. Reason: Fixed Quote display ;-)
    21 Spyder base F3

  11. #11
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central VERMONT
    Posts
    20,269
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pauly1 View Post
    I use the paddle shift on a 1330/SE6 F3 almost exclusively vs letting the TCM do it for me. The computer does the minimum to keep the clutch engaged so you don't go into free wheeling/coasting mode; it doesn't look at engine performance, grade of the road, etc. The engine provides dynamic braking, especially useful when descending grades. Choose to use your brakes exclusively and let the TCM do it's minimal downshifting runs the risk of overheating the brakes and/or losing control of the machine. I ran big V-twins for 15 years/170K miles and never lost a clutch or transmission, relying on the additional engine braking. That includes riding 2-up, and/or pulling a trailer. Take any riding course and they will recommend use of the engine for additional brake and vehicle control.
    ....My comments were directed at those folks who prefer to use the Engine as their Main braking device...... When I came down off the top of Mt Washington in NH ( 6000 + ft ), I also used to the transmission to control my speed - as opposed to using them as a Stopping device..... there is a difference .....Mike

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Durham,Maine
    Posts
    3,595
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    ....My comments were directed at those folks who prefer to use the Engine as their Main braking device...... When I came down off the top of Mt Washington in NH ( 6000 + ft ), I also used to the transmission to control my speed - as opposed to using them as a Stopping device..... there is a difference .....Mike
    When I came down that mountain, I wish I could have gone around the people that were in front of me, I needed another gear lower, had to stop halfway down to cool my brakes. The boss behind me would have beat me on the back if I had passed the car!!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  13. #13
    Very Active Member SLICE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2022
    Location
    manatee county Florida
    Posts
    575
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I ride like a Ken Block wanna be, that being said I find to many ''safety features'' on these machines.

    It will not let you downshift if you are going too fast for the next lower gear (ie. 4 to 3 if you are moving at 50-60 MPH.)

    I like to keep bikes up high in the power band, not this one, just another disappointing feature that a small percentage of us don't want or need.


    Flame On
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-21-2023 at 01:54 AM. Reason: Caps & ' 's ;-)

  14. #14
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    N.E. Fl
    Posts
    59
    Spyder Garage
    2

    Default

    Spousal unit says, "Brakes are cheaper than gears".......
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-20-2023 at 12:36 PM. Reason: then (a point in time) - than (the other option) ;-)
    2016 F3-T , Blk/Rd

  15. #15
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    13,518
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    We've replaced a great many brake pads and a surprising number of rotors that got eaten. Some people go through a set of rear pads in less than 10k. About the same mileage as a Kenda OEM tire.

    How many have ever heard of someone having to replace worn out gears? I've not in the 50 years plus that I've been riding motorcycles. If you use good oil. The metal in the gears never touch and don't wear any appreciable amount whether you use them or not.

    It's an age old debate. I don't think anyone ever changes their mind.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 02-20-2023 at 10:35 AM.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  16. #16
    Very Active Member Navydad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Chillicothe, Oh.
    Posts
    1,395
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ff73148 View Post
    I'm a newer owner of a 2022 RT Limited. Coming from two wheels I've always been a fan of downshifting and using engine braking to slow down. I've been doing this with my Spyder rather than letting the bike downshift on it's own. Any issues with what I'm doing?
    No. You're fine.
    2015 RT , Black

  17. #17
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    southwest oHIo
    Posts
    792
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    To add info to the debate referred to by BlueKnight and BajaRon:

    Most of my early cars had manual transmissions. As a younger "adult", I really enjoyed rowing through the gears, up and down. A co-worker commented on that by saying that while downshifting does add braking power and spares the brakes, it also tends to wear out the engine (not so much the gears).

    I have embraced that viewpoint, but modified it a bit to fit the situation at hand. If I were coming down Mt. Washington, Pike's Peak, or any other major hill, yeah, I would definitely be downshifting to keep speed in check and spare the brakes. However, going from stoplight to stoplight in town, the brakes are not going to overheat, so I tend to use them a bit more than downshifting.

    For the most part, you are not hurting anything by downshifting, as the computer will not let you shift until the revs are low enough to allow safe entry into the next gear.

    One other thing to consider: do you ride alone or have a passenger? How smooth is the shifting? Since you are not controlling the clutch action, you might bonk your helmets when the downshift occurs, unless your passenger is really experienced and anticipates the shift.

    .
    HER ride:
    2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White

    My rides:
    2000 Honda GL1500SE
    1980 Suzuki GS850G

  18. #18
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    787
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    ....My comments were directed at those folks who prefer to use the Engine as their Main braking device...... When I came down off the top of Mt Washington in NH ( 6000 + ft ), I also used to the transmission to control my speed - as opposed to using them as a Stopping device..... there is a difference .....Mike
    In other words, Mike, directed at me and my ilk. Controlling speed or braking: no difference. If one doesn't use the engine, then one uses the brakes. You ride your way and I'll ride my way.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-20-2023 at 12:33 PM. Reason: Removed needlessly provocative comment iaw Rule 3
    pauly1 - SpyderDeb's 'wrench'
    2018 F3-T & 2015 F3-S Road Warrior Foundation Tribute customs
    IBA #48220 SS1000 BB1500
    2015 F3-S , OEM na Basic Black with Custom Wrap

  19. #19
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    13,518
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve W. View Post
    To add info to the debate referred to by BlueKnight and BajaRon:

    Most of my early cars had manual transmissions. As a younger "adult", I really enjoyed rowing through the gears, up and down. A co-worker commented on that by saying that while downshifting does add braking power and spares the brakes, it also tends to wear out the engine (not so much the gears).

    I have embraced that viewpoint, but modified it a bit to fit the situation at hand. If I were coming down Mt. Washington, Pike's Peak, or any other major hill, yeah, I would definitely be downshifting to keep speed in check and spare the brakes. However, going from stoplight to stoplight in town, the brakes are not going to overheat, so I tend to use them a bit more than downshifting.

    For the most part, you are not hurting anything by downshifting, as the computer will not let you shift until the revs are low enough to allow safe entry into the next gear.

    One other thing to consider: do you ride alone or have a passenger? How smooth is the shifting? Since you are not controlling the clutch action, you might bonk your helmets when the downshift occurs, unless your passenger is really experienced and anticipates the shift.

    .
    I am sorry if the discussion seems to be contentious. It doesn't need to be. Most of us are going to do what we already do adhering to whatever floats our boat. It's you ride. You should do what you want. No one is required to justify the way they ride. But there are those who come here for information. Giving our reasons should help each undecided person in their decision. But if we fight about it, they probably just go away.

    I'm not saying Mike or anyone else is wrong. I respect his opinion. I don't have to follow it anymore than he has to follow mine. We can both ride off into the sunset happy as clams and, may I say, happy with each other.

    The engine wear theory is an interesting one. And I could see this being true in days gone by with different metals and oils that were nothing like what we have today. One of the few internal parts of an engine that may still have a metal to metal contact (again, good oil and maintenance procedures), is the piston ring to cylinder wall. And this pretty much limited to the top portion of travel. The compression ring (or rings) are designed to apply more outward pressure as compression increases. So, wide open throttle and high RPM is going to give you the greatest amount of wear at this location. Longer stroke will also add to this potential wear factor. Poorer oils tend to leave this upper cylinder area more vulnerable to wear as this area gets very hot.

    Using the engine as a brake (decel application) puts a minuscule load on the engine components and quickly cools the upper cylinder area. The greatly reduced compression factor also reduces the amount of force the compression ring(s) are exerting on the cylinder walls. And any oil will do a much better job of lubricating this area under decel.

    I tore my 750 Honda 4 cylinder down for another issue and was surprised that there were still hone marks all the way to the top of the cylinders at over 50k. And I ran that engine very hard using engine braking constantly. Granted, just one engine. Redline was 10.5k on that motor.

    I suspect there are a lot of people out there using their engines as brake assist on a regular basis. I just don't hear about all these engines and transmissions going south. Just my 2 cents. With inflation, it might even be worth that much now!
    Last edited by BajaRon; 02-20-2023 at 11:38 AM.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  20. #20
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Valley Springs, AR
    Posts
    41,273
    Spyder Garage
    8

    Default

    I am one who chooses free choice on the subject. I let the brakes do the talking 98% of the time. I will note that I am NOT an aggressive driver of the Spyder. So, for me, it does work.

    Everyone's opinion is welcomed. We are a forum here, and opinions count.

    One does not have to get on the proverbial "soap box" with arguments to make your point while demeaning others. It is highly unlikely that you are going to change anyone's mind by doing so.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  21. #21
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Edinburg, TX
    Posts
    1,069
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    ...How many have ever heard of someone having to replace worn out gears? I've not in the 50 years plus that I've been riding motorcycles. If you use good oil. The metal in the gears never touch and don't wear any appreciable amount whether you use them or not...
    EXACTLY! Decel is nothing but the opposite of accel. When you accelerate HARD (just for fun, or whatever reason) those gear teeth are doing it ALL, aren't they? And decel would wear the opposite sides of the gear teeth anyway, not increase the wear on the acceleration side. Now, there WOULD be drive-train thrust forces in the opposite direction of design-strength, but I wouldn't know if this is enough to be detrimental or not. Bearings & such...
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-16-2024 at 08:00 AM.
    NEW - 2015 RT Limited SE6 Intense Red Pearl - 07/21/15
    Retained the old mirrors with TricLed Signals
    General Altimax RT43 rear tire (at...17,000 miles) Ran for 36,500 miles
    Michelin Defender.......rear tire (at...53,500 miles) Ran for 60,700 miles
    Riken Raptor HR.........rear tire (at 114,200 miles)
    Vredestein Quatrac 5 front tires (at 70,500 miles, first new fronts!)
    Gear Brake Decelerometer Module

    OLD - 2012 RT Limited SE5 Pearl White - 01/31/13 - Traded in at 32,600 miles.
    BajaRon Anti-sway Bar
    Kumho ECSTA AST rear tire (at 14,200 miles)
    TricLed Turn Signals in Mirrors
    2015 Limited , Intense Red Pearl

  22. #22
    Active Member hut1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Greenwood, DE
    Posts
    215
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I use engine braking/manual downshifting 95% of the time. I believe it was muscle memory that came in handy when my brakes failed while approaching a red light at highway speed. I was able to downshift quickly and slow enough to navigate my way through a busy intersection and coast to a stop on the shoulder..........in full pucker mode!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-21-2023 at 01:47 AM. Reason: breaking (destroying) - braking (slowing) ;-)
    Skip H.
    '21 Can Am Spyder F3 S
    '97 Honda Goldwing w/Hannigan Astro 2+2 sidecar

    [img]

  23. #23
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW Australia
    Posts
    626
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ff73148 View Post
    I'm a newer owner of a 2022 RT Limited. Coming from two wheels I've always been a fan of downshifting and using engine braking to slow down. I've been doing this with my Spyder rather than letting the bike downshift on it's own. Any issues with what I'm doing?
    No issues; I do either. Sometimes I manually downshift, while others, I let the RTL do the work.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-21-2023 at 01:57 AM. Reason: ; ;-)
    2017 RTL
    2017 RTL , White

  24. #24
    SpyderLovers Ambassador Little Blue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    INDIANA, USA
    Posts
    6,730
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default Do it Your Way

    ....Welcome back. Seems everyone has enjoyed this topic and has been somewhat positive about their opinions. So I feel good and let's move forward.

    Tomorrow is another day. Let us enjoy life and Ryde Safe.
    Stay Healthy. ....
    ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
    Ryde with a Friend and be Safe

    My Spyder .....'Little Blue-Boy'
    2016 RT Limited , Orbital Blue

  25. #25
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Durham,Maine
    Posts
    3,595
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SLICE View Post
    I ride like a Ken Block wanna be, that being said I find to many ''safety features'' on these machines.

    It will not let you downshift if you are going too fast for the next lower gear (ie. 4 to 3 if you are moving at 50-60 MPH.)

    I like to keep bikes up high in the power band, not this one, just another disappointing feature that a small percentage of us don't want or need.


    Flame On
    You should have got a 998 if you like to rev it up!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •