"Do's and Do Nots" for new Spyder owners...

[isthatahemi]

Great post


I am guilty of changing gears too early, now I know what I should be doing, I will

FYI - The opinion on RPM is just that. When taking it easy, or around town, I keep it under 4K rpm, usually cruising around 3500rpm. I have no idea why folks recommend more, (mileage is not a valid reason) unless the discussion relates to SE models and preserving the clutch. I also observed that the 2009 SE5 I drove was a vibration machine where as my 2011 SM is SMOOTH. There is ample power available from 3000rpm's and up for around town. For freeway / highway, or higher speed riding, more RPM's are useful, but definitely not NECESASARY. And revving the engine higher, is certain to use more fuel, not less.

Just my opinion, but I personally believe the RPM recommendation (to stay over 5K rpm) is misguided, and wrong. Perhaps there was some change made after 2008, that made it smoother, but either way, I don't run my vehicles anywhere near their torque peak at steady speeds, unless max towing, into the wind. The lowest rpm that provides sufficient power, that the engine rus smoothly at, is the correct rpm.

Lovin the new Spyder, 400+ miles in the first 5 days of ownership!

[gman214]

FYI - The opinion on RPM is just that. When taking it easy, or around town, I keep it under 4K rpm, usually cruising around 3500rpm. I have no idea why folks recommend more, (mileage is not a valid reason) unless the discussion relates to SE models and preserving the clutch. I also observed that the 2009 SE5 I drove was a vibration machine where as my 2011 SM is SMOOTH. There is ample power available from 3000rpm's and up for around town. For freeway / highway, or higher speed riding, more RPM's are useful, but definitely not NECESASARY. And revving the engine higher, is certain to use more fuel, not less.

Just my opinion, but I personally believe the RPM recommendation (to stay over 5K rpm) is misguided, and wrong. Perhaps there was some change made after 2008, that made it smoother, but either way, I don't run my vehicles anywhere near their torque peak at steady speeds, unless max towing, into the wind. The lowest rpm that provides sufficient power, that the engine rus smoothly at, is the correct rpm.
Lovin the new Spyder, 400+ miles in the first 5 days of ownership!

Wondered about the high RPM ranges myself. I've had my 2011 RS-S, SM5 for a month now and noticed high RPMs lower gas mileage. Lower RPMs 4000 and under (around town) better gas mileage.

[isthatahemi]

Personally, I don't care for the noise of an engine spinning 2K higher than necessary. Burning fuel, generating heat, and generally making a racket. Just me though!

[malecrisis]

So I just bought a 2014 spyder rs sm5 and was reading through the do's and don't for new spyder riders lots of great info but can't seem to find anything specific to the sm5 manual transmission it focuses on the semiautomatic. What speed and gear are outher riders using. Is this a high rev machine? I'm coming off a Harley vrod and the shifting points seem way diffrent. Any feed back would be grate

[Illinois Boy]

So I just bought a 2014 spyder rs sm5 and was reading through the do's and don't for new spyder riders lots of great info but can't seem to find anything specific to the sm5 manual transmission it focuses on the semiautomatic. What speed and gear are outher riders using. Is this a high rev machine? I'm coming off a Harley vrod and the shifting points seem way diffrent. Any feed back would be grate

While this information does seem to apply only to the SE5; the shifting points and rpm's do apply for the manual shift 900 series engine and tranny.

Coming off a Harley V-twin, you'll need to get used to running your rpm's higher than you are accustomed with your Harley. Running your model Spyder between 2500-3500 rpm's will not provide you with the power and control you need -- and besides, it is hard on the entire system. I ride an Ultra-Limited and a 998 SE5 RTS. I have become quite accustomed to running each in a different manner as they require. It just takes a few miles for you to figure it out, and you'll see.

One other difference to note for you though is that you are able to run your manual clutch at lower rpm's without being as concerned with clutch slippage as you would have with the SE5 at lower rpm's -- however, as just stated, you do not want to run your 900 engine at low rpm's.

Ride safe and enjoy yourself!

[malecrisis]

While this information does seem to apply only to the SE5; the shifting points and rpm's do apply for the manual shift 900 series engine and tranny.

Coming off a Harley V-twin, you'll need to get used to running your rpm's higher than you are accustomed with your Harley. Running your model Spyder between 2500-3500 rpm's will not provide you with the power and control you need -- and besides, it is hard on the entire system. I ride an Ultra-Limited and a 998 SE5 RTS. I have become quite accustomed to running each in a different manner as they require. It just takes a few miles for you to figure it out, and you'll see.

One other difference to note for you though is that you are able to run your manual clutch at lower rpm's without being as concerned with clutch slippage as you would have with the SE5 at lower rpm's -- however, as just stated, you do not want to run your 900 engine at low rpm's.

Ride safe and enjoy yourself!

Thanks for the feed back will give it a try gonna be hard convincing myself to ride the RPMS into the 4500 5000 range

[NoJive]

I'd like to suggest that you add that the vacuum lines could be a problem on the manual transmission Spyders as well. My 2012 RTS was running like crap, and found both lines cracked. Put new lines in, and it runs like a top. It seems like this could be a common problem, due to the front line going right across the cylinder head!