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  1. #1
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    Here's one that I didn't know as I had never been around motorcycles or spyders:

    DO NOT RIDE IT DOWN GRAVEL ROADS

    I took it to the gravel road 1st day I owned it. Thought it'd be a good place to ride it and get used to the handling without traffic. 3 wheels on the ground would make you think it's perfect for gravel cruising. I pushed a rock into my belt. Since then, I've added the spyderpops guard
    Last edited by ARCTIC; 07-01-2012 at 08:44 AM.

  2. #2
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    Some of the best advise I've seen on here...

  3. #3
    Very Active Member MRH's Avatar
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    When I purchased mine I generated codes the first day riding the brake (costing my dealer a drive to pick it up and return it, and me the better part of the first week without use of it). I think that I somewhere read that on a 2010 RT the new update that resolves the touching the brake issue doesn't apply - but I may be wrong.

    I'd also been shifting pretty much as soon as the Spyder will let me - keeping the RPM's low, and am now working to break that bad habit (nobody told me, until I read it here, but that took a while). 5000? Really? I doubt I've been there much at all. It sounds like I should really only be in first or second in city driving. Nobody tells you this stuff. When I asked my dealer when to shift, they didn't have an answer for me at all. It all feels counter-intuitive.

    I'd have loved to have found this list on the site day one - can it be added as a sticky in the general forum?? I think it would head off a lot of issues for new owners, and possibly for some more experienced owners as well.

    As to the battery cables, I still haven't figured out where those are, and it took me some time to locate the fuses - it would make sense to have info on both of those in the thread. When you're starting from zero, the list in #9 is hard to do without much more information.

    This was a great post, thank you!
    Last edited by MRH; 07-01-2012 at 10:47 AM.

  4. #4
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    You've hit it out of the park with this post. Once you have it complete it does need a special spot here so "NEW OWNERS" don't have to learn so much the hard way. Well done

  5. #5
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    as far as where is the battery are leader has a post and shows you how to get to the battery look under the seat but to get to it you need to remove a pannel.lamont has you coverd.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member MMcc's Avatar
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    Default Monitor brake fluid level

    If the brake fluid level gets a little low you will get a brake failure notice scrolling on the screen. Check the fluid level before you panic. Add fluid to almost overflowing and the brake failure notice should disappear when you restart. If this does not correct the problem then see your dealer.

  7. #7
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    #2 just an FYI Setup is NOT done by the wrench. It is done by the assembly guys. These are the lowest paid workers in the shop. They simply go by a sheet of the steps needed to uncrate the bike and set it up.
    The man with the wench may make sure all the updates are done and just check it out right before delivery but that's it. The shop will not pay the lead guy to set up the unit it would be foolish and if so none of us would get our bikes fixed when they mess up. Whyis this because the shop needs to make the sale and get the unit to you, and we all want our oil change done yesterday .

    It is the same with cars a get ready person will set the car up and get it out to the buyer not the mechanic

    I had a bike delivered with the front wheel on backwards before

    I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair

    but your info is great otherwise

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by angel View Post
    #2 just an FYI Setup is NOT done by the wrench. It is done by the assembly guys. These are the lowest paid workers in the shop. They simply go by a sheet of the steps needed to uncrate the bike and set it up.
    The man with the wench may make sure all the updates are done and just check it out right before delivery but that's it. The shop will not pay the lead guy to set up the unit it would be foolish and if so none of us would get our bikes fixed when they mess up. Whyis this because the shop needs to make the sale and get the unit to you, and we all want our oil change done yesterday .

    It is the same with cars a get ready person will set the car up and get it out to the buyer not the mechanic

    I had a bike delivered with the front wheel on backwards before

    I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair

    but your info is great otherwise
    I guess in Texas they do things way different, here in Canada where I live all vehicles must have a PDI Pre Delivery Inspection or your (get ready person). These inspections are mandated to be done by a full papered Journeyman-woman no exceptions. I know the can am dealer here all the Spyders are set up by the Journeyman as well. Think about the liabillity a shop would have if the oil change person set up a bike and it was sold and some thing went wrong, no way would a self respecting shop allow this.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by angel View Post
    #2 just an FYI Setup is NOT done by the wrench. It is done by the assembly guys. These are the lowest paid workers in the shop. They simply go by a sheet of the steps needed to uncrate the bike and set it up.
    The man with the wench may make sure all the updates are done and just check it out right before delivery but that's it. The shop will not pay the lead guy to set up the unit it would be foolish and if so none of us would get our bikes fixed when they mess up. Whyis this because the shop needs to make the sale and get the unit to you, and we all want our oil change done yesterday .

    It is the same with cars a get ready person will set the car up and get it out to the buyer not the mechanic

    I had a bike delivered with the front wheel on backwards before

    I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair

    but your info is great otherwise
    We go to Kurtz Motorsports in Watsontown pa. There is only two people in shop, the owner and family member. Something said about going to a small shop. We know we are getting the best service from assembly to each oil change

  10. #10
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    Default repair

    I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair
    So if I take my Spyder in for a check-up or repairs I don't have to use the one I purchased it from for items under warranty?

  11. #11
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    Okay... I keep adding suggestions. Thanks guys.

    Please keep in mind we are only talking about "stock" Spyders and only basic ideas that are on a "must do or don't do" basis for new ryders. Customization and other performance ideas would not be what we are looking for... since they are endless and personal; and are constantly changing.

  12. #12
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    Thumbs up Thanks for this great info!

    Waiting to pick up my first Spyder any day now. Can't wait to hit the road a little and start getting used to it. This forum and posts like these are just awesome for newbies like me!
    Thank you!

  13. #13
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    Default "Do's and Do Nots"

    Great thread. Many of US assume alot of things but having that check list in front of us sure helps.

  14. #14
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    Check your battery cables, fuses, and such often. Anytime these get loose from vibration... the Spyder acts badly.

    I have heard much said about loose battery cables and fuses creating problems. Couldn't the battery cables have some kind of connector that assures they are always tight but at the same time removable? Couldn't fuses be replaced with breakers? Am I missing something? It seems from my reading this has always been a setup issue with less than scrupulous dealers.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldDog View Post
    Check your battery cables, fuses, and such often. Anytime these get loose from vibration... the Spyder acts badly.

    I have heard much said about loose battery cables and fuses creating problems. Couldn't the battery cables have some kind of connector that assures they are always tight but at the same time removable? Couldn't fuses be replaced with breakers? Am I missing something? It seems from my reading this has always been a setup issue with less than scrupulous dealers.
    Or, they could be set so they have better vibration dampening.

  16. #16
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    Good info

  17. #17
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    Thank you for posting this! it is very helpful.

  18. #18
    Very Active Member Star Cruiser's Avatar
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    Great post a nd a goodd reminder to all. I have always promoted the higher rpm shift and cruise. No problems through my first RS and now on the RT-S.
    I didn't know about the brake fluid, so thanks for that. also, I never had to worry about the battery tender, but I don't think using one would hurt anything. (has anyone tried one of the solar chargers?)

  19. #19
    Very Active Member Ron2andia's Avatar
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    Great thread... What about inspection? Does anyone know about wah it costs and is it covered under any of the warranties?

  20. #20
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    There is certainly some thorough, well thought out, sage advise in this thread. And being a new RT Limited owner it is very much appreciated.

    Carl

  21. #21
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    The first bike I had was a Honda 350. You had to red line it to get power out of it, the brakes were so bad that if you used the fooot brake as a foot rest, when you needed it, Nada, zero, zip brakes. The last bike i had was a Honda VFR, Its power band was 4000 - 8000 rpm. It liked to be kept near red line. I had it in Europe, where when there were speed limits, they were more like suggestions. Before I even got my Spyder, I down loaded the owners manual and the PDF file showing all the different parts and system schematics. Very good information, but this thread should be included in the Owners Manual.

  22. #22
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    Default Great tips- and I have read the manual -----all the way and I don't own one yet!!!!

    Thank you for posting these for NEWBIES and as some say the OLDIES too. Great insight and tips!

    Believe it or not- this "NEWBIE" who doesn't even own a SPYDER RT (YET) has already read the complete owner's manual already.

    I also live on a gravel road and was thinking of getting a belt shield Thankfully I'd only have to go 2 miles TOPS on gravel! Still though that worries me- about belts and so forth.

    I also worry about the low ground clearance and fuel economy or lack thereof on this but also understand too it is almost 1000 pounds etc.

    Thanks again for the GREAT TIPS!

  23. #23
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    Question Thank you and a question?

    Thank you for this "Do and Do Not" list - its a GREAT tool for us newbies.

    I'm actually new to bikes, the Spyder being my first, so please excuse my ignorance, but I have a question........

    My Spyder is an RT Limited (LOVE IT!!) - since I didn't see that specific model listed in the "Do and Do Nots", is it safe to assume those things all apply to my bike too?


    Thank you!
    Crickett

  24. #24
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    Default Riding the brakes

    I suspected that I was riding the right foot operated brake. To really find out if this was so I installed a bright blue LED on the dash on my SE5 GS and wired it in the circuit of the brake light. Anytime the foot brake is actuated the least little bit the LED turns on. I found that I was NOT riding the foot brake. It's an easy and low cost improvement. Arthur---Mexico City.

  25. #25
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    Default Do read...

    I have never seen a better set of "to do and not" rules...BRP should incorporate this into all Spyder operator's manuals...I know...some of it's already there but this is worded so well....smoky

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