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#2 just an FYI Setup is NOT done by the wrench. It is done by the assembly guys. These are the lowest paid workers in the shop. They simply go by a sheet of the steps needed to uncrate the bike and set it up.
The man with the wench may make sure all the updates are done and just check it out right before delivery but that's it. The shop will not pay the lead guy to set up the unit it would be foolish and if so none of us would get our bikes fixed when they mess up. Whyis this because the shop needs to make the sale and get the unit to you, and we all want our oil change done yesterday .
It is the same with cars a get ready person will set the car up and get it out to the buyer not the mechanic
I had a bike delivered with the front wheel on backwards before
I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair
but your info is great otherwise
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Originally Posted by angel
#2 just an FYI Setup is NOT done by the wrench. It is done by the assembly guys. These are the lowest paid workers in the shop. They simply go by a sheet of the steps needed to uncrate the bike and set it up.
The man with the wench may make sure all the updates are done and just check it out right before delivery but that's it. The shop will not pay the lead guy to set up the unit it would be foolish and if so none of us would get our bikes fixed when they mess up. Whyis this because the shop needs to make the sale and get the unit to you, and we all want our oil change done yesterday .
It is the same with cars a get ready person will set the car up and get it out to the buyer not the mechanic
I had a bike delivered with the front wheel on backwards before
I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair
but your info is great otherwise
I guess in Texas they do things way different, here in Canada where I live all vehicles must have a PDI Pre Delivery Inspection or your (get ready person). These inspections are mandated to be done by a full papered Journeyman-woman no exceptions. I know the can am dealer here all the Spyders are set up by the Journeyman as well. Think about the liabillity a shop would have if the oil change person set up a bike and it was sold and some thing went wrong, no way would a self respecting shop allow this.
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Originally Posted by angel
#2 just an FYI Setup is NOT done by the wrench. It is done by the assembly guys. These are the lowest paid workers in the shop. They simply go by a sheet of the steps needed to uncrate the bike and set it up.
The man with the wench may make sure all the updates are done and just check it out right before delivery but that's it. The shop will not pay the lead guy to set up the unit it would be foolish and if so none of us would get our bikes fixed when they mess up. Whyis this because the shop needs to make the sale and get the unit to you, and we all want our oil change done yesterday .
It is the same with cars a get ready person will set the car up and get it out to the buyer not the mechanic
I had a bike delivered with the front wheel on backwards before
I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair
but your info is great otherwise
We go to Kurtz Motorsports in Watsontown pa. There is only two people in shop, the owner and family member. Something said about going to a small shop. We know we are getting the best service from assembly to each oil change
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PDF file for Do's and Do Nots
I have created a PDF version of Illinois Boy's post for reading on a computer. This file could also be transferred to an iPad or other tablet to be available on the road. I used a program called Calibre to convert it to an e-pub file and loaded it into my iPad using iTunes and iBooks.
Note that I have not attached the e-pub file.
Link to the PDF file on Dropbox, as it is too large to upload to the forum.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/btotpxjbi9...wners.pdf?dl=0
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Letting the SE-5 downshift for you
I saw it mentioned, but wanted to give the thought a little more emphasis. When you let the SE-5 tranny downshift for you, for example, approaching a stoplight, you MUST completely let off the throttle! After finding myself stopped in 3rd or 4th gear a few times, and having to go through all sorts of contortions to get it to downshift, I finally trained myself that if I was going to come to a full stop, to take my hand off the throttle completely (this may not be comfortable for everyone, but it worked for me). Alternatively, you may want to consciously and physically return the throttle to the full off position. I have a tendency to let my hand roll to a comfortable position when letting off the throttle, but not necessarily all the way back to zero throttle. I don't know how many other people might be likely to do the same thing.
Whenever I'm actively moving around in traffic, or if I'm not sure if a full stop is upcoming, I always downshift manually. This advice is not for those times, only for when you are sure you are coming to a full stop, particularly, say, from highway speeds. The faster you are going (and the higher gear you are in) when the slowdown/stop is initiated, the more likely the machine to be confused if you continue to feed it even the tiniest bit of throttle.
Until I figured this out a couple months into my ownership, it was quite frustrating for me!
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High RPM
Is it normal for my RT SE6 to turn 4,000 RPM when cruising on the highway in 6th gear? That's a lot higher RPM than I'm used to on previous bikes.
Pam
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Originally Posted by Pampurrs
Is it normal for my RT SE6 to turn 4,000 RPM when cruising on the highway in 6th gear? That's a lot higher RPM than I'm used to on previous bikes.
Pam
Pam,
When you are in sixth-gear and cruising at highway speeds (60mph+) the 1330 engine will run at higher rpm's than most cruiser motorcycles. Nothing to worry about. It is quite normal. Rotax motors are designed for higher rpm's.
Ride often, safe, and aware!
Illinois Boy
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Originally Posted by ScreaminMeanie
I saw it mentioned, but wanted to give the thought a little more emphasis. When you let the SE-5 tranny downshift for you, for example, approaching a stoplight, you MUST completely let off the throttle! After finding myself stopped in 3rd or 4th gear a few times, and having to go through all sorts of contortions to get it to downshift, I finally trained myself that if I was going to come to a full stop, to take my hand off the throttle completely (this may not be comfortable for everyone, but it worked for me). Alternatively, you may want to consciously and physically return the throttle to the full off position. I have a tendency to let my hand roll to a comfortable position when letting off the throttle, but not necessarily all the way back to zero throttle. I don't know how many other people might be likely to do the same thing.
Whenever I'm actively moving around in traffic, or if I'm not sure if a full stop is upcoming, I always downshift manually. This advice is not for those times, only for when you are sure you are coming to a full stop, particularly, say, from highway speeds. The faster you are going (and the higher gear you are in) when the slowdown/stop is initiated, the more likely the machine to be confused if you continue to feed it even the tiniest bit of throttle.
Until I figured this out a couple months into my ownership, it was quite frustrating for me!
No offense, but it was assumed you would let the throttle go to idle for the auto-downshift. Glad you finally discovered that. The Spyder can be sensitive to conflicting inputs; such as holding a throttle on while braking. The Nanny will eventually shut down the system if it is repeated enough times or for long enough.
Ride often, safe, and aware!
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Originally Posted by Illinois Boy
No offense, but it was assumed you would let the throttle go to idle for the auto-downshift. Glad you finally discovered that. The Spyder can be sensitive to conflicting inputs; such as holding a throttle on while braking. The Nanny will eventually shut down the system if it is repeated enough times or for long enough.
Ride often, safe, and aware!
No offense taken. I'm just curious as to who assumed that? The manufacturer? Since the "absolute zero" throttle is not a requirement for any other vehicle on the road (2- or 4-wheeled), why would they assume that a brand new Spyder rider would just know? For those of us who are.....shall we say, "active"....drivers/riders, maintaining a little throttle while downshifting is as much a safety measure as it is a performance measure. On any other vehicle, aside from possibly being a little less fuel efficient, there is no downside to having a few extra revs at your disposal should you find yourself in an emergency situation and suddenly have the need to accelerate.
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Originally Posted by ScreaminMeanie
No offense taken. I'm just curious as to who assumed that? The manufacturer? Since the "absolute zero" throttle is not a requirement for any other vehicle on the road (2- or 4-wheeled), why would they assume that a brand new Spyder rider would just know? For those of us who are.....shall we say, "active"....drivers/riders, maintaining a little throttle while downshifting is as much a safety measure as it is a performance measure. On any other vehicle, aside from possibly being a little less fuel efficient, there is no downside to having a few extra revs at your disposal should you find yourself in an emergency situation and suddenly have the need to accelerate.
I haven't heard others having the problem you speak of. This is the first I have heard of it. Most people reduce their throttle some on vehicles when manually downshifting; which is all that was meant by the comment.
I honestly cannot remember if I put the throttle to zero on the Spyder before downshifting or not. I will check. It seems sometimes you just do things without thought, so I will have to check. Glad you discovered your problem though. I do not disagree about manually downshifting though with regard to having some power at the throttle if needed. Many accidents occur at or near stopping points or places where speed is reduced. Being able to get out of the situation in a hurry can make the difference. My biggest fear for Spyder riders is when someone doesn't take the potential dangers seriously enough. The same for any vehicle.
Last edited by Illinois Boy; 07-02-2015 at 08:10 PM.
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repair
I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair
So if I take my Spyder in for a check-up or repairs I don't have to use the one I purchased it from for items under warranty?
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Originally Posted by Shortcut
So if I take my Spyder in for a check-up or repairs I don't have to use the one I purchased it from for items under warranty?
Depends on the warranty you purchased. However, a BRP warranty is taken care of at any authorized dealer; just like it is with any just about any manufacturer.
Personally, I buy where I get my work done. I find it to be a more "harmonious" relationship, and supports those dealers who are providing good service. Just my opinion, but you know the story about opinions.
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