"Do's and Do Nots" for new Spyder owners...

[Illinois Boy]

So I just bought a 2014 spyder rs sm5 and was reading through the do's and don't for new spyder riders lots of great info but can't seem to find anything specific to the sm5 manual transmission it focuses on the semiautomatic. What speed and gear are outher riders using. Is this a high rev machine? I'm coming off a Harley vrod and the shifting points seem way diffrent. Any feed back would be grate

While this information does seem to apply only to the SE5; the shifting points and rpm's do apply for the manual shift 900 series engine and tranny.

Coming off a Harley V-twin, you'll need to get used to running your rpm's higher than you are accustomed with your Harley. Running your model Spyder between 2500-3500 rpm's will not provide you with the power and control you need -- and besides, it is hard on the entire system. I ride an Ultra-Limited and a 998 SE5 RTS. I have become quite accustomed to running each in a different manner as they require. It just takes a few miles for you to figure it out, and you'll see.

One other difference to note for you though is that you are able to run your manual clutch at lower rpm's without being as concerned with clutch slippage as you would have with the SE5 at lower rpm's -- however, as just stated, you do not want to run your 900 engine at low rpm's.

Ride safe and enjoy yourself!

[malecrisis]

While this information does seem to apply only to the SE5; the shifting points and rpm's do apply for the manual shift 900 series engine and tranny.

Coming off a Harley V-twin, you'll need to get used to running your rpm's higher than you are accustomed with your Harley. Running your model Spyder between 2500-3500 rpm's will not provide you with the power and control you need -- and besides, it is hard on the entire system. I ride an Ultra-Limited and a 998 SE5 RTS. I have become quite accustomed to running each in a different manner as they require. It just takes a few miles for you to figure it out, and you'll see.

One other difference to note for you though is that you are able to run your manual clutch at lower rpm's without being as concerned with clutch slippage as you would have with the SE5 at lower rpm's -- however, as just stated, you do not want to run your 900 engine at low rpm's.

Ride safe and enjoy yourself!

Thanks for the feed back will give it a try gonna be hard convincing myself to ride the RPMS into the 4500 5000 range

[NoJive]

I'd like to suggest that you add that the vacuum lines could be a problem on the manual transmission Spyders as well. My 2012 RTS was running like crap, and found both lines cracked. Put new lines in, and it runs like a top. It seems like this could be a common problem, due to the front line going right across the cylinder head!

[Illinois Boy]

I'd like to suggest that you add that the vacuum lines could be a problem on the manual transmission Spyders as well. My 2012 RTS was running like crap, and found both lines cracked. Put new lines in, and it runs like a top. It seems like this could be a common problem, due to the front line going right across the cylinder head!

It is mentioned within the text, but is specific to SE5 & 6. I will change it to include manual shift as well.

SE5/SE6 shifting problems / Cracked Vacuum Hoses:
Cracked (dry-rotted) vacuum hoses are related to shifting problems on the SE5's. Heat seems to be the culprit.
Have these checked regularly as part of your maintenance program and replace them if needed.
No reports on the 2014 1330's yet; but this may remain an issue despite the improved cooling system.

[NoJive]

Nice, and thanks for the list. This was one of the first things I read when I got my used '08 GS. I sold it last year, and included a copy of the list with the bike to help the new owners.

It is mentioned within the text, but is specific to SE5 & 6. I will change it to include manual shift as well.

SE5/SE6 shifting problems / Cracked Vacuum Hoses:
Cracked (dry-rotted) vacuum hoses are related to shifting problems on the SE5's. Heat seems to be the culprit.
Have these checked regularly as part of your maintenance program and replace them if needed.
No reports on the 2014 1330's yet; but this may remain an issue despite the improved cooling system.

[ShortCake]

What an awesome thread! I have yet to even look at any other posts/threads and have read this all the way through from the beginning.

I am totally new to Spyders although being active on 2-wheels for about 12 years now. I'm a youngin' only in my mid 40's but due to a nagging knee issue, felt it was time to get more serious about safety and the chances of going down. I am in the process of getting a brand new leftover 2015 RT S SE6 (still in the warehouse and boxed) $5630 under suggested retail. Putting a lot down so the monthly payments are less damaging. I also invested in getting the additional 3 yr extended warranty (especially with all of the electronics and computer gadgets used in these machines).

My only question is, after reading most of the info in this thread, I remember reading something about what gears you should be in for certain mph. I did read about the lower RPM's when to shift for the RT 1330 models, but, was anything said about which gear is best for which speeds? Previously stated was that 4th gear is good for cruising anywhere from 45mph up to 60 or even 65mph. Is that still the same or different since new info has been added about the 1330's?

[Illinois Boy]

...was anything said about which gear is best for which speeds? Previously stated was that 4th gear is good for cruising anywhere from 45mph up to 60 or even 65mph. Is that still the same or different since new info has been added about the 1330's?

It is explained in detail within the text that is specific to the 1330 engine if you re-read just that section (very first post).

In short however, for the 1330's, the important thing to remember is when to shift out of first to second. It should be at or above 2500 rpm's. Many shift out of first at 3000 rpm's or slightly higher.

The second thing to remember is that you do not need to use all the gears (6 of them) all the time. In other words, if you are just cruising around town you might never use 5th or 6th gear.

Since you have ridden motorcycles, you know when an engine sounds like it needs to be shifted up or down. The same applies here. The 1330 machines are not as sensitive to its shifting points as the 900 series engines were.

The shifting issue mostly came about because of the 998 engines' low torque at low rpm's. The torque-range of the 900 series engines is at 5,000+ rpm's -- required shifting at higher rpm's (5,000+) and basically staying within that range.

Too many owners were shifting their 998 engines too early and running them at too low of rpm's. Some were also shifting to 5th gear and cruising around town all day in 5th gear. That is torture on the 900 series machines. Apparently, American's love low rpm machines and many have a hard time getting used to a higher rpm engine. Thus, BRP came up with the 1330 engine to satisfy those who are not comfortable with a high rpm engine. (Personally, I love the 900 series engine.)

Hope this helps.

Enjoy your ride, and ride safe, often, and aware.

Illinois Boy