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SpyderLovers Founder
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Very Active Member
Was giving that some thought after I changed mine for the first time last week (after removing all the panels). The protective plate that attaches to the frame has a hole in it lined up with the engine oil plug. Pop the plug, drain the oil and wipe off what little may end up on the plate. The oil drain on the tank is set up same way. Biggest mess would be taking off the filter, but after all the oil from the engine is gone, the only oil left will be what's still hanging on to the filter. A very small amount that will easily be caught by a rag under the filter. Thanks again, Lamont.
Last edited by Dudley; 03-30-2009 at 05:43 PM.
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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lamonster is that an extra battery or is that were the 07s had it?
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His photos have foiled his secrets again...
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SpyderLovers Founder
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Very Active Member
The glass is half full.
Mike Murphy
Happy Spyder Owner
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SpyderLovers Founder
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Senile Member
Silver SM5 PE# 1274, Hindle Exhaust, Touring Windshield, Caliper Trim, B.E.S.T. 3 Year Ext, Nuvi 255 GPS, Fog Lights, Sport Rack, Back Rest, 12V Outlet, Talon 3300p Alarm, NMN Mud Flap and TipZ LEDs, SpyderLovers Emblems, Kuryakyn Widow Pegs and Axel Trim, Luimoto seat skin, Evo Air Filter and O2 Mod, Cranker Tank Bag, Blue Sea fuse block, MAD/AMS/MBG, Oddyssey battery, IPS.
Service Bulletin Applied: Gen II parking brake, 2nd SW patch, evap can/hose update, Gen II DPS
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Lamonster - did the Spyder run cooler with the splash pans off?
Have you previously posted a thread about this?
Frank
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by trikester
Lamonster - did the Spyder run cooler with the splash pans off?
Have you previously posted a thread about this?
Frank
Driving down the road it dropped the temp two bars.
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Registered Users
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
Driving down the road it dropped the temp two bars.
Wow! I'm definitely going to do this, since I'll be riding in the desert this summer.
I also have the same question; which pieces are refered to as the "splash Pans"?
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by trikester
Wow! I'm definitely going to do this, since I'll be riding in the desert this summer.
I also have the same question; which pieces are refered to as the "splash Pans"?
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Excellent, Lamont! "A picture's worth a thousand words".
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It look like the splash pans were designed to protect some of the components from road debris. Is cooler running a fair trade off for exposing the underside to possible debris?
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SpyderLovers Founder
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Registered Users
Lamont, Do you have a water temp gauge that shows degrees? If so, What degrees does it run with the pans on and pans off? Do ya know?
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by brutus450
Lamont, Do you have a water temp gauge that shows degrees? If so, What degrees does it run with the pans on and pans off? Do ya know?
It depends on too many things to tell you one temp. What conditions are you wanting to know about?
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FYI... I just finished my oil change and it took 2 hours start to clean up--which is what I would say is normal for us reg'lar folk with standard tools and adequate patience and limited ability to pay attention to detail (Replace washer BEFORE reinserting drain plug...)
And yes, I used the new BRP synthetic blend.
We'll see how it goes.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by BRPjunkie
It look like the splash pans were designed to protect some of the components from road debris. Is cooler running a fair trade off for exposing the underside to possible debris?
You could always just drill holes in them to allow for some added circulation.
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Went to the dealer to get some BRP oil, as no one else had the correct 5w-40 our machines call for, and a quart cost me $12.99. Now, I figuer it cost about what...$70 bucks to have the dealer do the oil change? , and it would cost me $64.95 (takes 5 quarts to fill the spyder) plus whatever those washers etc call for plus my labor, the mess (I'm sure I would make a mess out of it), so to me, it woud make sense to just have the dealer do it.
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Originally Posted by Blinc
Went to the dealer to get some BRP oil, as no one else had the correct 5w-40 our machines call for, and a quart cost me $12.99. Now, I figuer it cost about what...$70 bucks to have the dealer do the oil change? , and it would cost me $64.95 (takes 5 quarts to fill the spyder) plus whatever those washers etc call for plus my labor, the mess (I'm sure I would make a mess out of it), so to me, it woud make sense to just have the dealer do it.
4 quarts. Put 5 in and
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Motorbike Professor
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
Actually, the SM5 takes 4.1 qts, and the SE5 takes 4.4 qts, so you will need a little more than four quarts for either, but not a full five (unless you like oil in the airbox).
-Scotty
I think Blinc has SM5, so 4 would be advisable. Owner's Guide says add 3.9 liters (4 qts), but actual conversion from liters to qts is 4.1. Dealer only charges for 4 quarts, so they either plan on not a full drain of system or leave it a little low to prevent air box blow issues.
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Very Active Member
Last edited by Dudley; 04-25-2009 at 11:24 PM.
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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