My 2018 Spyder RT Limited. Finding oil capacity on mine is like pulling teeth. My kit I bought had 6 quarts K&N air filter and a high flow oil filter that I didn’t necessarily like. Anyway I changed my oil and filter, added 5 quarts checked my dipstick and it was at the bottom of the full mark. Before startup. I added 1/2 of the 6th quart and started my engine. Runs great sounds great but haven’t rode it yet. Just a test fire. Rechecked my oil level added 2 more ozs and it’s at the upper full mark just below the very top. I left it right there. All the 4 quart 4.5 quart advice I was reading just didn’t feel right. Almost 6 came out when I drained it. So I am confident the 5.6 quarts I put in it is just right. Funny how something so simple can be a nail biter, especially when the manufacturer seems confused also. This is my first post I believe. I think I started a new thread Lol. Anyway trying to make other people have a easier time finding their capacity than what I just went thru!!!!
You really can't just dump oil into these engines until the dipstick shows full!! That 'added the 5 quarts & it reached the bottom of the dipstick' level sounds like it was pretty close to correct THEN, and adding too much more oil at that stage without checking the level properly is just plain wrong!
If you've topped your oil level up to the full mark on the dipstick WITHOUT using the approved 'oil check method' which involves some riding before doing the dipstick thing; or at the very least, idling the engine for long enough to let the fans cycle a couple of times (others will provide specific/correct oil check details, I'm sure! ) then there's a very good chance you've over-filled it!! And that might not be a very good thing at all; messy at best; or possibly a precursor of expensive damage at worst!!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-19-2020 at 07:24 AM.
Reason: 'Too much'
As a new owner of a 2020 RTL, I suspect I should carefully read my manual on checking the oil level, I have not done that yet. Maybe I'm just intimidated by the some threads on the subject. Ahh for the 'old days', well maybe not.
You only have to worry about that on the first oil change. Once you figure out exactly how much oil it takes when you change the oil and the filter, it will be the same amount every time. You can write it on your tool box or on the wall and just put that amount back in each time. Mine gets 5.25 quarts each time and it always comes out half way between the upper and lower level every time. I measure the partial quart with a kitchen measuring cup and save what is left in the oil bottle for the next oil change.
So would that hold true for all the 1330 Rotax engines?
Therein lies the very important question. The answer seems to be 'No'. But until you get your oil up to operating temperature (not coolant), you will not know if you are under-filled, over-filled or just right. Chances are, if you are at the 'Full' level on your dip stick with cold oil. You are actually over-filled. You can't treat a dry-sump system like a car with an oil pan, wet sump system, and get an accurate dip stick reading.
I was looking at oil capacities for 2017-2020 F3-S's and found the manual shows anywhere from 5 > 5.5 qts with filter. Kinda weird. My 2019 calls for 5.5 with filter. My level was right at full with 5.5 quarts. Like Gwolf above, my next change will be around that 5.25 amount to keep the level at the 1/2 or 2/3 full mark. I've had no issues at full level though..
2022 RT Sea To Sky
--------------------------------
I am always baffled by how complicated people make this oil level thing. It's not.
After a ride.
Let it idle for 10 minutes.
Check the oil.
If it is between min and max. Do nothing. If below min. Add a 1/2 quart.
Really how hard is that!!!
I like your "easy peasy" method. Oil can be an intimidating subject here.
I would add: (if I dare), if the ride is more than 10 miles or a half hour duration, you don't need the additional idleing. The key is to get the engine up to operating temperature.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
I like your "easy peasy" method. Oil can be an intimidating subject here.
I would add: (if I dare), if the ride is more than 10 miles or a half hour duration, you don't need the additional idleing. The key is to get the engine up to operating temperature.
Not letting it idle before checking would not be a good idea. The amount will depend on the rpm it was driven at. There will be extra oil in the engine and a lower level in the tank. Time is needed for the oil to return to the sumps, mostly by gravity. Then back into the tank. It is likely that it will take less then 10 minutes to reach an equilibrium and BRPs recommendation to idle for 10 minutes, after the ride, is likely overkill. But really why second guess them.
Not letting it idle before checking would not be a good idea. The amount will depend on the rpm it was driven at. There will be extra oil in the engine and a lower level in the tank. Time is needed for the oil to return to the sumps, mostly by gravity. Then back into the tank. It is likely that it will take less then 10 minutes to reach an equilibrium and BRPs recommendation to idle for 10 minutes, after the ride, is likely overkill. But really why second guess them.
I think the below is what is confusing you Billy. Proof reading engine oil level sampling procedures does not seem to be BRP's strong suit. That's confusing any way you read it. What it means is either ride 9 miles and then let it idle for 20 seconds OR idle for 10 minutes before checking oil level.
I think the below is what is confusing you Billy. Proof reading engine oil level sampling procedures does not seem to be BRP's strong suit. That's confusing any way you read it. What it means is either ride 9 miles and then let it idle for 20 seconds OR idle for 10 minutes before checking oil level.
I beg to different with you please. It doesn't say OR it says steps 1-2-3-4. It doesn't say EITHER either ! I mean I can't believe I got my dog is this checking the oil level thread but what I read is pretty straight forth. It is 1234 ............... I think the entire procedure is a circle jerk but that is what BRP wrote in my manual. And yes I totally understand the concept of a dry sump engine I been around them all my life. I do believe if we follow BPP's procedure we won't over fill the Spyder and isn't that what we are doing here
Doug 2020 RTL F3 Short reach bars -factory backrest
K9CRT Ham Radio
Sold 5/27/2021 Spyder just wasn’t for me. Went back to Goldwing
NOTICE Adjusting the oil level on
a cold engine will result in overfilling.
1. Take a ride of at least 15 km (9 mi).
2. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
3. Let the engine idle at least 20 seconds.
WARNING
Exhaust gas contains poisonous
carbon monoxide that can rapidly
accumulate in an enclosed or
poorly ventilated area. If inhaled,
it can cause serious injury or
death. Only run the engine in an
unenclosed, well ventilated area.
NOTICE Adjusting the oil level on
a cold engine will result in overfilling.
4. Stop engine.
NOTE: Engine oil level verification
must be performed within 2 minutes
after engine stop.
5. Remove RH lateral service cover.
Refer to BODY PANELS.
6. Unscrew and remove the oil dipstick.
rbl2015-006-522_a
TYPICAL
1. Oil dipstick
7. Wipe off the dipstick.
8. Reinsert and completely screw in
the dipstick.
9. Unscrew and remove the dipstick
again.
10. Check the engine oil level on the
dipstick. It should be near or equal
to the upper mark.
2022 RT Sea To Sky
--------------------------------
I think the below is what is confusing you Billy. Proof reading engine oil level sampling procedures does not seem to be BRP's strong suit. That's confusing any way you read it. What it means is either ride 9 miles and then let it idle for 20 seconds OR idle for 10 minutes before checking oil level.
You appear confused. The discussion is about a 1330 engine. Not 998 V twin.
I am not confused at all. If you want to look it up this is pulled directly from the 2019 RT owners manual. Did you even look at item 3 in the red rectangle?
I beg to different with you please. It doesn't say OR it says steps 1-2-3-4. It doesn't say EITHER either ! I mean I can't believe I got my dog is this checking the oil level thread but what I read is pretty straight forth. It is 1234 ............... I think the entire procedure is a circle jerk but that is what BRP wrote in my manual. And yes I totally understand the concept of a dry sump engine I been around them all my life. I do believe if we follow BPP's procedure we won't over fill the Spyder and isn't that what we are doing here
Sorry Doug. I want you to carefully read step 3. Please explain it to me. Please, please, pretty please. They blew the whole write up. It is either/or.
Yeah, says the same thing in my manual. I just check the oil after a ride or check it when I stop for gas. The level is always the same. It don't matter if you rode 9 miles like it says or if you rode it 100 miles. The level is going to be the same if you go by the procedures. It is not rocket surgery. I did the same on the Harleys. Checked the oil after coming back from riding.
I am always baffled by how complicated people make this oil level thing. It's not.
After a ride.
Let it idle for 10 minutes.
Check the oil.
If it is between min and max. Do nothing. If below min. Add a 1/2 quart.
Really how hard is that!!!
I think the hardest part of that is idling for 10 minutes after a ride. When I get done riding, the bike gets parked and I am GONE.
I understand the concept of a dry sump oil system, but the Spyder seems to have a SEMI-dry sump that seems to drain back to somewhere else. Why can't the dipstick be in the separate oil reservoir? Possibly because that reservoir gets drained.
The 2014 RT operator's guide is, IMO, the sloppiest writing and editing project ever to come out of BRP as far as checking the oil is concerned. If you read pages 124-125 of the '14 OG and compare it with pages 127-128 of the '13 RT OG you see that the only thing they've changed in how to check the oil is in Step 2 of the '13 OG they tell you to remove some body panels while in Step 2 of the '14 OG they tell you to open the seat. For two entirely different engines they tell you the engine needs to idle for 30 seconds and the picture of the dipstick in the '14 OG is not the one that is in the 1330 engine. The biggest thing to remember regarding the 1330 engine is that when you change the oil and filter, the initial fill is 5.0 qt which brings the level on the dipstick of an engine at normal operating temperature to the min mark. You may at your discretion add additional oil but never more than 1/2 qt. I prefer to add in 2 oz increments until I see the oil level on the dipstick midway between the Min and Max marks and go ride for 9,300 miles.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
Well update. I rode about 100 miles today. Motor nice and quite, shifts great checked oil after I got back and it was right below the top full mark just like it was after I filled it. Never heard of having to drive one till it gets hot and fans came on and all that. I have when you change radiator water but not oil. Don’t know why these things are so particular for. Any other motorcycle or car I’ve ever worked on, you change your oil put in recommended capacity. Crank it up to let the filter fill up and let oil circulate for a few minutes, cut the engine off, wipe off the dip stick, reinsert dipstick pull back out and check oil level. CanAm must have made rocket science out of it.