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SpyderLovers Founder
Warning about the new Fox shocks
This is the official statement from BRP. You could say the same for any aftermarket shock that is changed out on your RS/GS or RT. As you know I've not had an issue but I thought this is something you should know anyway.
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
This is the official statement from BRP. You could say the same for any aftermarket shock that is changed out on your RS/GS or RT. As you know I've not had an issue but I thought this is something you should know anyway.
Can the 2008-2010 be properly re-calibrated through a software update???
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by lightman02
Can the 2008-2010 be properly re-calibrated through a software update???
I think it's a lot more involved than that. It has to go though testing on those year models and have approval. I think this more of a legal thing than anything but as you know it hasn't stopped me from changing my shocks.
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Very Active Member
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
I think it's a lot more involved than that. It has to go though testing on those year models and have approval. I think this more of a legal thing than anything but as you know it hasn't stopped me from changing my shocks.
Gotcha, I was just wondering.
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Does this mean BRP dealers won't even install a pair on anything earlier than 2011s?
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Very Active Member
Part of replacing the front shocks for many of us was to shut the nanny up anyway--- don't need no stinkin' new calibraion!
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Originally Posted by Firefly
Part of replacing the front shocks for many of us was to shut the nanny up anyway--- don't need no stinkin' new calibraion!
I just hope she doesn't start getting louder. That would be bad if it makes it more sensitive, however less sensitive would be nice.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by IWN2RYD
This is just a CYA for BRP... I mean really... Who here has gone to their Dealer and had the Computer re-programmed after replacing their shocks to Elka's or heck even putting RT shocks on an RS?
There is no "re-programming" that can be done when you change shocks or for that matter tires that are not OEM. The VSS is calibrated to those tires and shocks and changing them changes the calibration. Like I said it hasn't stopped me from making changes but I'm doing it at my own risk.
Originally Posted by daveinva
Does this mean BRP dealers won't even install a pair on anything earlier than 2011s?
I guess that depends on your dealer. Most dealers like Cowtown don't have a problem with it.
Originally Posted by Firefly
Any idea of price???
Nope but you have a part number now for the kit so make a phone call and let us know.
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Well, they look pretty good. At least they are offering an alternative, even though they say only for 2011-2012 models. Since the physical platform is the same and I am guessing they are using the same ECU type there is no reason why my ECU couldn't be flashed to match the 2011/2012 ECU. To my knowlege the new RS machines have no new sensors added above and beyond what the rest of us have.
But I agree with Dan that no recalibration would be needed anyway. As long as it keeps body roll in check and provides good ride feel and damping (which equates to keeping Ms. Nanny less active) I'd have no problem putting them on 14. After all, the RT shocks are not gong to last forever and the 2010 RT shocks won't be available any more when mine do wear out. Just gotta see what these babies cost...
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Originally Posted by Raptor
Well, they look pretty good. At least they are offering an alternative, even though they say only for 2011-2012 models. Since the physical platform is the same and I am guessing they are using the same ECU type there is no reason why my ECU couldn't be flashed to match the 2011/2012 ECU. To my knowlege the new RS machines have no new sensors added above and beyond what the rest of us have.
But I agree with Dan that no recalibration would be needed anyway. As long as it keeps body roll in check and provides good ride feel and damping (which equates to keeping Ms. Nanny less active) I'd have no problem putting them on 14. After all, the RT shocks are not gong to last forever and the 2010 RT shocks won't be available any more when mine do wear out. Just gotta see what these babies cost...
Actually the VSS is controled by the antilock brake system which is part of the Bosch system and not the ECM. The Bosch module is not able to be directly updated by BUDS such as the other modules are. I believe this is why it's only 2011/2012 as they must be using newer software in the antilock brake controller for 2011/2012.
Last edited by lightman02; 07-15-2011 at 07:21 PM.
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Originally Posted by lightman02
Actually the VSS is controled by the antilock brake system which is part of the Bosch system and not the ECM. The Bosch module is not able to be directly updated by BUDS such as the other modules are. I believe this is why it's only 2011/2012 as they must be using newer software in the antilock brake controller for 2011/2012.
D'OH! Yer right about that. It says VSS right on the post! My bad...
Last edited by Raptor; 07-15-2011 at 09:17 PM.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Anything that changes suspension or traction will, in effect, lie to the Nanny.
Like the performance sway bar. The Nanny has lean angle as one of her parameters. The sway bar makes the Spyder corner with much less lean for the same centrifugal force. So the Nanny will hold off longer thinking that less lean means less danger of losing control.
Add performance shocks and higher traction tires and you compound this effect.
Since changing the shocks and sway bar, I have noticed the Nanny waits longer to jump on me when I'm riding hard. And when she does come in it is more abrupt and forceful. You can only fool her to a point. When she discovers what you are really doing she feels the need to be more agressive.
It is a good idea to take it easy and explore the limits and get a feel for the new handling characterists of any suspension/traction mod before you ride it hard. You've changed things and you don't want to be surprised.
You can go faster before you reach the point of losing control. But the break will come with less warning and be more abrupt than with the stock configuration. In other words, you have to pay more attention and you are more likely to exceed the limitations of the Nanny protecting you. Though I must say, she still does a very good job.
When I was stock I could easily raise the inside tire. In a controlled turn the tire would come up gradually and predictably. It sometimes came up 5 or 6 inches but looked more dangerous that it actually was. I never felt like I was near any 'edge' of losing control.
Now it is rare for me to raise a tire. I have to be cornering pretty hard. When it does come up it is only an inch or 2 at most and I feel much closer to 'the edge' of control. But more often, instead of raising the inside tire, I will actually drift all 3 tires (which never happened on good pavement with the stock setup).
It's not much drift and it usually doesn't last long, (a second or two - like hitting a patch of sand). Then you have to be ready when the tires bite again because that can also get your attention. The rear usually breaks first and also hooks up first. That's the most intimidating part of this senario.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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I don't know about other folks here, but installing Elka shocks has vastly improved my satisfaction level with the Spyder. The originally shocks were just too soft, even cranked up. I am sure my dealer's service tech with have something to say when he services it next time. If he wants to attempt to void my warranty over it, then we can take on the fight at that time, because I am not going to go back to stock. I live just off of Arkansas Highway 62 west of Eureka Springs and anyone familiar with the area knows the tight curves we have and Elka shocks made all the difference in the world for handling for me.
So far I've never had the nanny scream at me.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by retiredsquid
I don't know about other folks here, but installing Elka shocks has vastly improved my satisfaction level with the Spyder. The originally shocks were just too soft, even cranked up. I am sure my dealer's service tech with have something to say when he services it next time. If he wants to attempt to void my warranty over it, then we can take on the fight at that time, because I am not going to go back to stock. I live just off of Arkansas Highway 62 west of Eureka Springs and anyone familiar with the area knows the tight curves we have and Elka shocks made all the difference in the world for handling for me.
So far I've never had the nanny scream at me.
I can not imagine a senario where any warranty would be compromised by changing to Elka shocks. I do not think you'll have any issues there.
Still, I had a dealer tell me my DPS unit was not working because I had installed an aftermarket cruise control uint. So you never know. That didn't fly, by the way, but it did take me by surprise.
Last edited by BajaRon; 07-17-2011 at 05:57 AM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
heard something that they use for the new RS - models now the "longer" rocker-arm of the RT ?? maybe thats the reason
Outlander fairing - Fox-shock - BajaRon Swaybar - Hankook tire/ back - 165/50 Imperial tires front & longer front shocks - GIVI Topase - Shad sidecases -heated grips - new seats
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Active Member
Fox shocks
I did some research on these as a dealer came back to me telling of the same calibration issue if you didn't have a 11 or 12 model year,as stated in Lamonts post.BRP's online parts finder lists two part number's for 2010's on the stock shocks [early,late release].The spring numbers are the same.So some people with a later release 2010 may also be able to use them as it is the same number as the 2011.How you know if you have a early or late release is not known.
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Originally Posted by Just Doo Me
I did some research on these as a dealer came back to me telling of the same calibration issue if you didn't have a 11 or 12 model year,as stated in Lamonts post.BRP's online parts finder lists two part number's for 2010's on the stock shocks [early,late release].The spring numbers are the same.So some people with a later release 2010 may also be able to use them as it is the same number as the 2011.How you know if you have a early or late release is not known.
How does this time travel thing work...an 08 in 04 signature.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Campverdefela
How does this time travel thing work...an 08 in 04 signature.
Spyders go much further than most knew......
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Elkas -sway bar and picking up front wheels . . .
Have both the Elkas and the performance sway bars on our RT and RS - I have managed to pick up a front wheel on the RT 3 times now at slower speeds with out the nanny kicking in. These were tight and off camber turns. Another Spyder pilot thought I was showing off (pulling out on to the highway from a driveway) . . . it has always been the left front that picks up, but I think that is because I tend to turn harder in that direction . . . any thoughts?
2010 RS , custom home made billet Red/Black
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Originally Posted by Firefly
Any idea of price???
If you go here http://en-us.spyder.brp.com/home.aspx and go to build and price an RS they are shown as an option for 449.99 under custom accessories
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