Overheating...

[SpyderAnn01]

When you "overheat"are you getting the P0127 or P0217 codes? There was a post last week from a BRP technician explaining the codes and "heat soak". It happens to me on my 2013 RT when the temperature shows 122 or higher. They obviously didn't build these for life in the desert.

[Sny]

If the dealer has checked the cooling system and it's working then you're probably getting one of the heat "warnings".

When the intake air temps exceed a certain level it'll let you know that it doesn't like it. But it won't stop you from riding and as soon as you start moving it'll go away.

If you get a true overheat code, you'll know. It will behave differently.

That said, the 2013 ST's *are* suffering from a design flaw that is causing many heat issues that mostly come from the fact it runs too lean and isn't properly compensating for conditions.

Keep on your dealer and have them keep asking BRP for advice. I was told that BRP *is* paying for things such as wrapping pipes, adding heat tape and other temporary solutions while they come up with a real fix for the problem. But your dealer needs to run point on that and file the claim.

[Spyder Tony]

If the dealer has checked the cooling system and it's working then you're probably getting one of the heat "warnings".

When the intake air temps exceed a certain level it'll let you know that it doesn't like it. But it won't stop you from riding and as soon as you start moving it'll go away.

If you get a true overheat code, you'll know. It will behave differently.

That said, the 2013 ST's *are* suffering from a design flaw that is causing many heat issues that mostly come from the fact it runs too lean and isn't properly compensating for conditions.

Keep on your dealer and have them keep asking BRP for advice. I was told that BRP *is* paying for things such as wrapping pipes, adding heat tape and other temporary solutions while they come up with a real fix for the problem. But your dealer needs to run point on that and file the claim.

WOW...that would explain the lack of codes being thrown. Only once has the dealer been able to retrieve a code. I don't know how to do so myself, although I have read somewhere on the forum how to do so. NancysToys seems to be saying the same thing. Each time it has done this, I have never gone into limp mode (As I have read others have done when they overheated) so i suspect it is as SNY said and I am geting a Warning light (as in the engine is getting pretty hot) because each time I am able to start the bike and resume. As a note, I stop and let the bike cool b4 continuing my ride as I don't want to do any permanent damage.

To explain the pic...it is taken when I stopped to gas up after coming off a 20 25 mile ride. gassed up (bike sat for 10-12 mins in shade) and the Warning was present as soon as the Can-Am screen came alive.

Thanks to you all for the comments thus far...It takes a village to ride and maintain a Spyder

[Sny]

Sitting off might make the problem worse.

Idling for a bit before turning it off seems to help in some cases. The cooling system continues to function rather than just the fan.

There's two temp warnings, one for engine/coolant temp and one for intake air temp. The intake air temp will definitely shoot up after you shut it off and kick that light on. Riding it fixes this.

If your coolant temp was high you'd see it on the left. It's not high. 8 is high as Scotty pointed out. I don't think you're having a cooling system related problem.

It might just be a sensor. Or it's a false positive. Might be worth having the dealer take a peek.

For what it's worth, Canadians have some very different philosophies than Americans. They're every bit as smart, but have some very different ways of looking at things which result in different choices. (Was that politically neutral enough? )

[Spyder Tony]

Sitting off might make the problem worse.

Idling for a bit before turning it off seems to help in some cases. The cooling system continues to function rather than just the fan.

There's two temp warnings, one for engine/coolant temp and one for intake air temp. The intake air temp will definitely shoot up after you shut it off and kick that light on. Riding it fixes this.

If your coolant temp was high you'd see it on the left. It's not high. 8 is high as Scotty pointed out. I don't think you're having a cooling system related problem.

It might just be a sensor. Or it's a false positive. Might be worth having the dealer take a peek.

For what it's worth, Canadians have some very different philosophies than Americans. They're every bit as smart, but have some very different ways of looking at things which result in different choices. (Was that politically neutral enough? )

You hit the nail on the head with the false positive, Sny!!!
Just got off the phone with the dealership mechanic and as you mentioned...BRP noticed in the pic (sent a copy to the dealership repair dept, and they sent the pic to BRP) that the temp was NOT displaying as high on the left of the viewscreen so they told the dealer to replace the sensor. Forrest (mechanic at the dealer) ordered the part and will let me know when it arrives. Once it does, he will dispatch out a driver & trailer to drop off a loaner Spyder and take my Nikki back to the shop for the sensor swap.

Kudos all around...

...to the members of the forum who chimed in with information, to the dealership who got my e-mail & pic @ 11:30 and had BRP on the phone with the solution by 1:00 same day, to BRP for acting swiftly with the aforementioned solution.

I'll send update when she's back from the shop and i've had a chance to push her a bit to ensure she no longer throws the false positive.

[ARtraveler]

Based on the shift points and gears you mentioned, IMO, you are overreving the . This could be leading to your heat issues.

There have been several threads with recommended shifting points and gears to use.

Recommended to shift 5000-5500. Keep the engine "happy" in the 5000 range--no matter what gear. Go to 5th at 60-65 mph or higher. Shift down a gear if you need extra power for hills or to pass.

[spyryder]

When you "overheat"are you getting the P0127 or P0217 codes? There was a post last week from a BRP technician explaining the codes and "heat soak". It happens to me on my 2013 RT when the temperature shows 122 or higher. They obviously didn't build these for life in the desert.

Here's the link to that thread:


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...P0217-messages

[Spyder Tony]

Here's the link to that thread:


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...P0217-messages

Thanks Spyryder for the Heat Soak link. I read it end-to-end and found the information VERY useful. Glad to see BRP representation on the forum as well!!!

[SpyderAnn01]

My water temp gauge has never gone higher than one minute above the halfway point. I get the codes all the time. BRP was aware of this and I was told it was not a problem. I'd put money on a new sensor not making a bit if difference

[spyryder]

Now I'm beginning to wonder if these sensors are mounted in their proper location. This was a frequent problem a few years back. Here's an old thread showing where it should be mounted:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ensor+location

[SpyderAnn01]

Now I'm beginning to wonder if these sensors are mounted in their proper location. This was a frequent problem a few years back. Here's an old thread showing where it should be mounted:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ensor+location

I recall that happening also but that wasn't mentioned as a probable cause by BRP to me.

[NancysToy]

Now I'm beginning to wonder if these sensors are mounted in their proper location. This was a frequent problem a few years back. Here's an old thread showing where it should be mounted:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ensor+location

The water temperature sensor can only be mounted in in one place...the cylinder head.

[spyryder]

The water temperature sensor can only be mounted in in one place...the cylinder head.

There are two sensors.....the other one, the one causing the problems is in the air intake.