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Oh Boy !!!!!!!!
After listening(reading) all of you.......I can hardly wait to do a plug and wire change.....Not!
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does anyone know if there is a video on the plug
removal fron RTs ? haven't been able to locate
one yet...
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I am doing this right now for the first time on the RT. I have to say the pictures and descriptions of how to get to it really help. Let's see if I can do this with minimal cursing. Wish me luck!
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I see that I was the last person to post on this topic..... let's just say that day I attempted the spark plug change on the RT was one of the worst ever!! Took me 6 hours from start to finish. I am in here looking at threads again on the subject, because after two years and 15,000 miles it's time to do this again!!!! This time I am going to try by not only loosening the bottom part of the airbox, I am also going to just go ahead and pull the trunk off so I don't have to pull my hair out. Wish me luck!!!
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I don't envy you the task you have before you.
I pulled out the air-box when I installed JT's air filter. I must say it is very nice having that space free and the ease at which I can now get to the front plug.
Yup, do pull the frunk off. Its not but 4 screws on top and two below then a few electrical disconnects. Having that out the way does give you a bit more room to move around and curse in.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderGirl
I see that I was the last person to post on this topic..... let's just say that day I attempted the spark plug change on the RT was one of the worst ever!! Took me 6 hours from start to finish. I am in here looking at threads again on the subject, because after two years and 15,000 miles it's time to do this again!!!! This time I am going to try by not only loosening the bottom part of the airbox, I am also going to just go ahead and pull the trunk off so I don't have to pull my hair out. Wish me luck!!!
Just get rid of the air box and replace with JTs air cleaner. Less heat, better access and you only have to do it once.
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
Just get rid of the air box and replace with JTs air cleaner. Less heat, better access and you only have to do it once.
Unfortunately I do not have the time or money to do that right now as we are leaving in only two short weeks for Spyders in the Redwoods in California and this has to be done before we leave. TRUST ME.... It's been in the back of my mind ever since the last time I did this and nearly lit a stick of dynamite in that stupid airbox.
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Originally Posted by revjvegas
I don't envy you the task you have before you.
I pulled out the air-box when I installed JT's air filter. I must say it is very nice having that space free and the ease at which I can now get to the front plug.
Yup, do pull the frunk off. Its not but 4 screws on top and two below then a few electrical disconnects. Having that out the way does give you a bit more room to move around and curse in.
If it's even a little easier than it was the last time when I tried to sneak in there from either side with the box still in the engine cavity, I'm all for it. The mechanic at my California dealer said that taking the trunk off does help a lot.
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Originally Posted by SpyderGirl
If it's even a little easier than it was the last time when I tried to sneak in there from either side with the box still in the engine cavity, I'm all for it. The mechanic at my California dealer said that taking the trunk off does help a lot.
I don't think you're going to gain much by removing the Frunk. The air box is the biggest culprit and it's not really all that much work to take the top off and remove the 6 throttle body screws so the bottom portion can be moved out of the way. Especially when you consider the alternative.
Good luck! We'er all pulling for you!
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
I don't think you're going to gain much by removing the Frunk. The air box is the biggest culprit and it's not really all that much work to take the top off and remove the 6 throttle body screws so the bottom portion can be moved out of the way. Especially when you consider the alternative.
Good luck! We'er all pulling for you!
Loosening the lower part of the airbox to move it is not the problem.... that's no big deal. That's what I did the last time and I still had problems. It's trying to work around it to get to the front plug. Why oh why did they make it impossible to remove the lower part of the airbox out of the engine cavity as it is on the GS/RS?? I can do a tune up on the GS in about a hour or less.... doing it on the RT is like having a second full time job.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderGirl
Loosening the lower part of the airbox to move it is not the problem.... that's no big deal. That's what I did the last time and I still had problems. It's trying to work around it to get to the front plug. Why oh why did they make it impossible to remove the lower part of the airbox out of the engine cavity as it is on the GS/RS?? I can do a tune up on the GS in about a hour or less.... doing it on the RT is like having a second full time job.
Then just remove the air box, change the plugs and put it back in. Its not THAT big a deal to remove. The right hand brace needs to be moved out of the way, along with all the stuff mounted to it. Once done and the bolts are off, the box comes out in one piece easy enough. I was just suggesting you not put it back in. Removing it still gets you access to the plugs.
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Just changed the plugs and wires on my wife's 2010 RTS. Three hours total start to finish. Removed the airbox. Removing the frunk only gives you room if you don't remove the airbox.
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Originally Posted by bruiser
Just changed the plugs and wires on my wife's 2010 RTS. Three hours total start to finish. Removed the airbox. Removing the frunk only gives you room if you don't remove the airbox.
HOW???!!?? There is a frame piece in the way that blocks the complete removal of the box.... trust me, I remember when I did this two years ago. I had to break a piece of the box off with a saw to get it out.... and that was after a lot of cussing and sweating.
If it were just that easy, how come everyone on here is complaining about how much of a b*tch it is. I'm interested in hearing your secret. Do tell. How do you remove that brace and then put it back into place?
This is for my husband's 2011 RT-S.
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Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
The front spark plug was never meant to be removed.
It is permanent
LOL! Sure seems that way. I'm getting crappy gas mileage and I am pretty sure this is the culprit since it's been 2 years and 15,000 miles since it was last changed.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderGirl
HOW???!!?? There is a frame piece in the way that blocks the complete removal of the box.... trust me, I remember when I did this two years ago. I had to break a piece of the box off with a saw to get it out.... and that was after a lot of cussing and sweating.
If it were just that easy, how come everyone on here is complaining about how much of a b*tch it is. I'm interested in hearing your secret. Do tell. How do you remove that brace and then put it back into place?
This is for my husband's 2011 RT-S.
That frame piece is only held in with 5 bolts. And it does not need to be entirely removed, just moved aside enough to allow the airbox out.
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I have done the spark plugs & wires (BajaRon) installation last week on my Spyder RT 2011 from the left side (where you check oil) WITHOUT removing the air box using a setup similar to this one (taken from post #46 and #37 of current thread):
the rig.jpg P1040033sm.jpg
Its not that hard and has taken me less than 2 hours to change both spark plugs and the wires. Just make sure that engine has cooled off if you don't want to have a burn (... I should have followed this advice!).
But I must agree that this damn spark plug was not easy to replace. Also I recommend if you still have the stock OEM spark wires to replace them with Bajaron wires while you are there.
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
That frame piece is only held in with 5 bolts. And it does not need to be entirely removed, just moved aside enough to allow the airbox out.
Hmmm... that's not how I remember it from two years ago. I am sure I would have noticed that there was just five bolts to take off. I'll have to see when I get in there.
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Originally Posted by dvandal
I have done the spark plugs & wires (BajaRon) installation last week on my Spyder RT 2011 from the left side (where you check oil) WITHOUT removing the air box using a setup similar to this one (taken from post #46 and #37 of current thread):
the rig.jpg P1040033sm.jpg
Its not that hard and has taken me less than 2 hours to change both spark plugs and the wires. Just make sure that engine has cooled off if you don't want to have a burn ( ... I should have followed this advice!).
But I must agree that this damn spark plug was not easy to replace. Also I recommend if you still have the stock OEM spark wires to replace them with Bajaron wires while you are there.
Yeah, that is the way I tried to do it last time and it didn't work. Not enough damn room to turn the tool in there, and I have small hands and arms. The last time I replaced the stock with BajaRon's wires and plugs, so they should be easier to get off this time. Still is going to be a pain to get at that front plug, but if I can get that lower airbox out, then no problem!
If I can get it out as easily as others are saying, then I won't need sixteen attachments to my ratchet to get at it. LOL
If I get it done in 3 hours, I'll be thrilled.
Last edited by SpyderGirl; 07-16-2014 at 02:21 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderGirl
Hmmm... that's not how I remember it from two years ago. I am sure I would have noticed that there was just five bolts to take off. I'll have to see when I get in there.
I am giving you first hand information. I have DONE this myself. On two different Spyders, mine and the misses. Its not guesswork or theory.
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
I am giving you first hand information. I have DONE this myself. On two different Spyders, mine and the misses. Its not guesswork or theory.
Oh, I believe you. It has been two years since the last time I did this on a RT. I've done it several times on my GS. Maybe I was too pissed off to notice the easy way to get the box out of there. It certainly is possible. It was the end of August in Northern California and it was like a gazillion degrees outside. LOL
I'm glad to know that that brace is removable, that'll make my life so much easier. Thanks.
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Yeah, that is the way I tried to do it last time and it didn't work. Not enough damn room to turn the tool in there, and I have small hands and arms.
I know what you means, a standard 1/2 ratchet was too long for me. I instead used a 1/4 ratchet (the small ones) with an adaptor 1/4 to 1/2 and this has worked for me and has given me enough space.
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Since a picture is better than words, here is exactly what I used:
IMG_1760.jpg
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Originally Posted by dvandal
Since a picture is better than words, here is exactly what I used:
IMG_1760.jpg
Is that blood from your knuckles on the concrete? <smiles>
Chris
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2013 model
Is the 2013 RT as difficult as the previous years?
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Is that blood from your knuckles on the concrete? <smiles>
Yes, this looks like but no its paint
Last edited by dvandal; 07-16-2014 at 03:59 PM.
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