How to combine running and brake lights?

[BeRight]

I have a GIVI E52 topcase with two wire brake light built in.

I would like to make it a combined running and brake light.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Maybe some simple relay logic?

[rleathen]

I would check with the guys from No Magic Neon. They are by far the most knowledgable about the electrical of the Spyder. Better yet get the NMN Triple Play.

[sabunim5]

The wiring for the brakes and running lights is right there under the rear tail section, so it should be a piece of cake to wire your top case in. Do not worry, the extra load will not cause any codes or send you into the dreaded Limp Mode That is where I tied in my trailer lights with no problem.
Ryde Safe and Enjoy
sabunim5

[BeRight]

The wiring for the brakes and running lights is right there under the rear tail section, so it should be a piece of cake to wire your top case in. Do not worry, the extra load will not cause any codes or send you into the dreaded Limp Mode That is where I tied in my trailer lights with no problem.
Ryde Safe and Enjoy
sabunim5

Thanks for your input.

Might you know how I can make my two wire (ground and power) trunk light work with running (orange wire) and brake (white wire) and black (ground)

[Magic Man]

Thanks for your input.

Might you know how I can make my two wire (ground and power) trunk light work with running (orange wire) and brake (white wire) and black (ground)

I do

MM

[BeRight]

I think a simple SPDT auto relay will work. Once I breadboard it, I let you folks know my results.

[Magic Man]

I think a simple SPDT auto relay will work. Once I breadboard it, I let you folks know my results.

Really, a simple SPDT relay will do that? Please let us know how that works out?

Because I am curious how SPDT relay will make the running light dimmer while keeping the brake light full intensity using a single filiment bulb like this GIVI top case uses?

MM

[BeRight]

Power to the bulb will be switched between brake and running in 5ms.

[NancysToy]

I'm missing something here. Is this an incandescant bulb, or an LED array? A single filament bulb (one hot wire, one ground) will not glow at two different intensities without changes in the voltage applied. If you use a resistor to reduce the voltage while in running light mode, the bulb will be very dim, and the resistor will get very hot. With full voltage to the bulb, it will never be as bright as the brake lights, only as bright as it is right now. You would need to change to a dual filament socket and three wires, with an 1157 bulb or equivalent.

For LEDs, I would think you would need to build a different array, although switching different values of resistors in and out could possibly accomplish things, if you could eliminate the existing resistors. That is not readily accomplished with LED arrays, since the resistors are usually wired and cast into the array. (How close to the base am I here, Magic? Electronics is not my strong suit.)
-Scotty

[Magic Man]

Power to the bulb will be switched between brake and running in 5ms.

You seem to be missing THE BIG picture.

How do you plan to get the running light to be dommer than the brake light function as that is done by the current tail light bulb having a low and high filliment and the trunk light has only one filiment.

It is not about just sending the two different signals to the bulb you need to have the bulb perform two different functions, dim and bright.

MM

[Magic Man]

I'm missing something here. Is this an incandescant bulb, or an LED array? A single filament bulb (one hot wire, one ground) will not glow at two different intensities without changes in the voltage applied. If you use a resistor to reduce the voltage while in running light mode, the bulb will be very dim, and the resistor will get very hot. With full voltage to the bulb, it will never be as bright as the brake lights, only as bright as it is right now. You would need to change to a dual filament socket and three wires, with an 1157 bulb or equivalent.

For LEDs, I would think you would need to build a different array, although switching different values of resistors in and out could possibly accomplish things, if you could eliminate the existing resistors. That is not readily accomplished with LED arrays, since the resistors are usually wired and cast into the array. (How close to the base am I here, Magic? Electronoics is not my strong suit.)
-Scotty

Very close Scotty!

However, this can be done to an incandescent bulb without the heat issues you mentioned using some electronic "magic" like what is inside our Triple Play units.

I could tell you how to do it...

But then I'd have to kill you. LOL

MM

[NancysToy]

Very close Scotty!

However, this can be done to an incandescent bulb without the heat issues you mentioned using some electronic "magic" like what is inside our Triple Play units.

I could tell you how to do it...

But then I'd have to kill you. LOL

MM

But the incandescant bulb will always glow dimmer than at full voltage, right, same as with a resistor? Boy, do I need an education in this department.

Don't have to kill me, I'd rather twist wrenches than fiddle with transistors any day...I don't want to know! LOL
-Scotty

[BeRight]

Great points-one of the many reasons I love this forum.

Certainly not worth dieing over, nor spending hours/days/weeks/months designing building and testing.

So I GOOGLED, yeah I admit it I GOOGLED.

I found a supplier that makes an LED plug and play kit for this topcase that includes: running, brake and turn signals.

Twisted Throttle had one in stock and has it ready for mail pickup.
My life is worth more than this $79 deal, O'K maybe it is worth only just over $79.

[jnt]

Thot about that for ours. Then had the occasion to follow a BMW LT in traffic and watch the topcase-mounted brake light come full on when braking. MUCH MORE visible/attention getting than a change in intensity. Likewise the brake light in our Givi case - brake light only. Effective IMNSHO. We do have the NMN TriplePlay for the OEM tail/turn lights. Also effective!!