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Originally Posted by bobnaquin
Brake fluid low will give an error when it needs about a teaspoon of fluid. Brake pads can wear down to a mm before needing changing. That is really thin but there you have it.
Change the oil every 5000 miles, ride it regularly and don't modify the electrics in any way. At least until you learn the proper way to do it-on here.
I am on my second RS and they are rock solid, strong and problem free since the power steering has been fixed. You should have a lot of fun.
Thanks Bob Naquin! The pads look OK, but a more thorough inspection is necessary. I'll be sure and ask here about any electrical mods. The Can-Am oil change kit will be in next week. I did suction out the oil tank and put in semi 20w-50 I had for my Suzuki (wet clutch rated). It was NOT SM.... It has to be better than the stuff the previous owner left in there (phew!). I noticed it now goes in neutral much easier......Art
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Originally Posted by Queasyrider
Thanks, Spydaman60! People on this forum are having an incredible time with their "Spyda's". I haven't had so much anticipation since I bought my V-Max 10 years ago! Big day tomorrow!..............Art
I've been riding two days now, I LOVE this thing!!..........Art
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Originally Posted by Queasyrider
Thanks Bob Naquin! The pads look OK, but a more thorough inspection is necessary. I'll be sure and ask here about any electrical mods. The Can-Am oil change kit will be in next week. I did suction out the oil tank and put in semi 20w-50 I had for my Suzuki (wet clutch rated). It was NOT SM.... It has to be better than the stuff the previous owner left in there (phew!). I noticed it now goes in neutral much easier......Art
I'd recommend you get that 20W-50 out of there ASAP. The water-cooled Spyder engine is not designed to operate with the heavier oil meant for air-cooled engines. Until you get it out of there, take it very easy...especially when cold, and warm it up thoroughly before you rev the engine or hit the road.
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
I'd recommend you get that 20W-50 out of there ASAP. The water-cooled Spyder engine is not designed to operate with the heavier oil meant for air-cooled engines. Until you get it out of there, take it very easy...especially when cold, and warm it up thoroughly before you rev the engine or hit the road.
Thank you for the advice! I have been taking it easy, getting used to it. It's been warm here in Tampa, 65-75f. New oil here Monday.....
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Originally Posted by Queasyrider
Thank you for the advice! I have been taking it easy, getting used to it. It's been warm here in Tampa, 65-75f. New oil here Monday.....
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congratulations On your new spyder. I have a 2012 rs and will have 25,000 miles on it this week. I've put on new rear pads and a rear tire...you can not beat the rs. Enjoy the Ryde and put some miles on it!
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Originally Posted by greatrides
congratulations On your new spyder. I have a 2012 rs and will have 25,000 miles on it this week. I've put on new rear pads and a rear tire...you can not beat the rs. Enjoy the Ryde and put some miles on it!
Thanks Greatrides! Quick question: I noticed at highway speeds 50-70 mph, the wind over the windshield hits me right at my face. Do you have a similar problem? I wear an open face helmet, full face is too hot in the warmer weather especially in the heavy traffic here.............Art
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GOS Founding Member (Girls On Spyders)
BRP makes a 25" windscreen that might help. I keep it on until we get to the really hot days here in Arkansas. I thought I would like the taller model to help with buffeting, but it cut the airflow down too much on 90degree days. Once it's that hot I switch back to the short sports screen and just wear a 3/4 helmet. But below about 80, I do like the taller one even though it takes away from some of the coolness factor of the RSS.
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Can am kid the switch houseings should have no difference in handling, maybe your left arm is causing a slight pull,The right or left hand on the bars with slight pressure on them should have you tracking straight.
Mike
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Congrats on the new spyder from one rss rider to another youll love it.
My thoughts on the 20 /50 cycle oil is that my Harley V Rod V twin is watter cooled also and i use synthetic HD oil for it as well as my 2012 Can Am Spyder although the spyder calls for 5w40 i prefer here in Florida to use the same oil in both machines due to the heat here and the synthetic hd premium oil with the same jasco ratings works verry well with no manual clutch problems.
Im not recomending this to anyone else these are just my personal choises having used this oil in both new and used Harleys with air and watter cooled V twin motors with no failures.
Mike
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Don't sweat running that 20/50. Aprilia has been running the same v twin in most of their bikes for years and a lot of those guys run 20/50. No oil issues.
BRP specs the 5/40 oil because it's the same oil they use in a lot of their other machines.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by mcaccamise
Congrats on the new spyder from one rss rider to another youll love it.
My thoughts on the 20 /50 cycle oil is that my Harley V Rod V twin is watter cooled also and i use synthetic HD oil for it as well as my 2012 Can Am Spyder although the spyder calls for 5w40 i prefer here in Florida to use the same oil in both machines due to the heat here and the synthetic hd premium oil with the same jasco ratings works verry well with no manual clutch problems.
Im not recomending this to anyone else these are just my personal choises having used this oil in both new and used Harleys with air and watter cooled V twin motors with no failures.
Mike
Thanks Mike! The correct BRP oil and filter kit will be here Monday. The oil that was in it smelled like gasoline and was pitch back......I wanted it out ASAP! The clutch does release better, but still gets grabby occasionally. The plates may be burnt......Art
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Originally Posted by DrewNJ
Don't sweat running that 20/50. Aprilia has been running the same v twin in most of their bikes for years and a lot of those guys run 20/50. No oil issues.
BRP specs the 5/40 oil because it's the same oil they use in a lot of their other machines.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Thanks Drew! It's been a while since I read up on it, but I remember that the low number (20)indicates the equivelent viscosity of 20w at 0 dg. F, the high number (50) is the same as 50w at 212 deg F (Or something like that!). Anyway, I feel the same that clean oil was a better choice, even if a little thicker.............Art
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I do
Originally Posted by Queasyrider
Thanks Greatrides! Quick question: I noticed at highway speeds 50-70 mph, the wind over the windshield hits me right at my face. Do you have a similar problem? I wear an open face helmet, full face is too hot in the warmer weather especially in the heavy traffic here.............Art
I do get a lot of wind....you do on a rs. They make bigger windscreens Witch will help.
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Last edited by Queasyrider; 03-22-2014 at 09:59 PM.
Reason: spelling
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Originally Posted by Queasyrider
Thanks FaranH! Yeah, the the last two bikes I had, Intruder 1400, V-Star 650, both came with windshields. I took them off right away as I like the "coolness" without them. I ordered a used RSS windshield from eBay to try cutting it down an inch at a time to see what works best. I'll post how it works out. Did the new sway bar help with the floating feeling at high speeds? Also, getting a lot of lean on sharp turns at lower speeds..........Art
The lean is something you have to get used to, to some extent. Be sure your front tires have sufficient air...around 20 seems to work well on the GS/RS. That may also help the floating feeling, although overcontrol is a common cause, and the toe-in may need adjustment. Be sure the front tires are the same pressure as each other. To help with the lean, set your front shock preload higher or replace the front shocks with 2010 or the 2011/2012 RT units. Take-offs are available at reasonable prices. Elkas would be better, but more expensive. Lean your upper body into the curve or shift your weight. It's like trying to kiss the knuckles of your inside hand. A BajaRon swaybar is the best help, and a real bang for the buck. Do some parking lot figure eights until you are more comfortable with the lean.
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
The lean is something you have to get used to, to some extent. Be sure your front tires have sufficient air...around 20 seems to work well on the GS/RS. That may also help the floating feeling, although overcontrol is a common cause, and the toe-in may need adjustment. Be sure the front tires are the same pressure as each other. To help with the lean, set your front shock preload higher or replace the front shocks with 2010 or the 2011/2012 RT units. Take-offs are available at reasonable prices. Elkas would be better, but more expensive. Lean your upper body into the curve or shift your weight. It's like trying to kiss the knuckles of your inside hand. A BajaRon swaybar is the best help, and a real bang for the buck. Do some parking lot figure eights until you are more comfortable with the lean.
Thanks Scotty! I used the e-air gauge supplied with the tool kit and set the front tires to 15.0 psi. My old mech gauge showed 17psi. Riding two up and taking a left at a light, I noticed the right tire flattening out. Will the 20psi throw off the VSS? I guess it monitors yaw (lean) and modulates the eng timing/brakes to avert lifting a wheel. I'll try a higher preload a little at a time.
The sidecar hack required body english, careful throttle, etc. and would still lift the wheel......Art
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Very Active Member
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Spyderprod.html
I have the CalSci X-Large on my RS and its protective while letting cooler air over the top and air through the middle hole which relieves turbulence and they are Cost Effective and Good Looking!!!
2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.
Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!
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I have one of those 25" touring windshields I just picked up to try and have used for a few rides. I absolutely HATE it. It works as it should keeping most of the wind off of me, but looks ridiculous, to quiet sitting behind it. Makes me feel 20+ years older than I am.... I really am just not a big windshield kinda guy...
Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by Sarge707
Hey Sarge, great website! You ordered the large, did you use their yardstick method?.............Art
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Originally Posted by DrewNJ
I have one of those 25" touring windshields I just picked up to try and have used for a few rides. I absolutely HATE it. It works as it should keeping most of the wind off of me, but looks ridiculous, to quiet sitting behind it. Makes me feel 20+ years older than I am.... I really am just not a big windshield kinda guy...
Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk
Me too! See my post above to FaranH.......Art
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Originally Posted by Route1motorsports
If you'd like pm me your vin or call me at the dealership ( 321-725-7225 ) and i'll run that vin
You got a friend in Grant,Fl
-chuck
Route1Motorsports
chuck@route1motorsports.com
321-725-7225
Thanks Chuck! E-mail on the way...........Art
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