Shifting to 1st gear...

[Dat Guy]

When I shift my 2013 RT SE5 into first gear, it makes a LOUD clunk noise, and the bike jerks slightly even with my foot firmly on the brake. It shifts up and down while on the move without any issues, but getting it into 1st gear feels weird. Also, I sometimes have to press the "+" shifter several times to get it into 1st gear. Is this normal?

[Cruzr Joe]

When I shift my 2013 RT SE5 into first gear, it makes a LOUD clunk noise, and the bike jerks slightly even with my foot firmly on the brake. It shifts up and down while on the move without any issues, but getting it into 1st gear feels weird. Also, I sometimes have to press the "+" shifter several times to get it into 1st gear. Is this normal?

the initial clunk is somewhat normal, the repeated attempts to engage the clutch should not be, if this is occurring with your foot solidly on the brake then i would check the oil level.

Cruzr Joe

as with all my advice take it knowing that i am a novice in this area.

[Jeriatric]

When I shift my 2013 RT SE5 into first gear, it makes a LOUD clunk noise, and the bike jerks slightly even with my foot firmly on the brake. It shifts up and down while on the move without any issues, but getting it into 1st gear feels weird. Also, I sometimes have to press the "+" shifter several times to get it into 1st gear. Is this normal?

What brand of oil are you using, and are you maintaing the level at or above the half way mark on the dip stick?

[Dat Guy]

I have 1500 miles on it, an just did the 600 miles service a month ago. The oil is synthetic and was at the proper level last time I checked.

[Chupaca]

make sure your oil level is correct. The clunking when shifting into 1st is normal and does get a bit better with use. Gears are still when in nuetral so engine engaging these gears and putting them into motion is the clunking. Once in gear shifting is smooth because they are all in motion. Nevertheless you should check with others or tech making sure it is not excessive....

[Cruzr Joe]

I have 1500 miles on it, an just did the 600 miles service a month ago. The oil is synthetic and was at the proper level last time I checked.

dealers (actually the mechanics) have a tendency to put too much oil or not enough oil in when they change it because they don't actually allow the bike to warm up to the necessary temperature for checking it. I suspect that his is the case and would ride the bike for a good 30 minutes or so and then check it within 30 seconds or so of shutdown and make sure that you have enough oil. when you say synthetic oil are you talking about BRP oil or did your dealer use something other than BRP oil when he changed it??

I hate to beat a dead horse but most likely oil is your problem

Cruzr Joe

[Jeriatric]

Find yourself a quality ●full synthetic oil. Where you live and ride, your spyder will thank you for it. There are hundreds of oil threads here. Search them.

[AZLife]

I had the same problem..check out this thead:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...r-very-Low-oil

[AZLife]

dealers (actually the mechanics) have a tendency to put too much oil or not enough oil in when they change it because they don't actually allow the bike to warm up to the necessary temperature for checking it. I suspect that his is the case and would ride the bike for a good 30 minutes or so and then check it within 30 seconds or so of shutdown and make sure that you have enough oil. when you say synthetic oil are you talking about BRP oil or did your dealer use something other than BRP oil when he changed it??

I hate to beat a dead horse but most likely oil is your problem

Cruzr Joe

Cruzr Joe is right on. Had my dealer overfill the oil so much I could't even get a good reading on it. So I now always check before leaving dealership. #1 rule, don't trust a mechanic. I also was told they used full synthetic oil, and I even questioned them on it. They said they did. But then I get the receipt, and it showed a blend. OMG. How frustrating. Hang out on this site too much and the Dealers will hate you

[Bob Denman]

Are you letting the engine's idle speed "settle-in", before stabbing the paddle?
It doesn't take much time at all; but that might make a difference!

[3 Wheel Addict]

Are you letting the engine's idle speed "settle-in", before stabbing the paddle?
It doesn't take much time at all; but that might make a difference!

I know that mine hits hard going into 1st if i dont let it warm up first. Shifting into reverse is always a bone jarring event and it always feels like its going to break something. I think it would be smoother if we could get the idle speed down to around 1100 insted of 1800 letting that centifulgal clutch relax a bit. I bet the manual clutch bikes dont have this issue.

[NancysToy]

I know that mine hits hard going into 1st if i dont let it warm up first. Shifting into reverse is always a bone jarring event and it always feels like its going to break something. I think it would be smoother if we could get the idle speed down to around 1100 insted of 1800 letting that centifulgal clutch relax a bit. I bet the manual clutch bikes dont have this issue.

Idle speed on all but the 2014 Rt should be 1350 +/- 50. If yours is not, see your dealer.

[3 Wheel Addict]

Idle speed on all but the 2014 Rt should be 1350 +/- 50. If yours is not, see your dealer.

Seriously, that could explain a lot! When it goes back for the current 13 recall i'll have them check into that, thanks!

[Bob Denman]

What's your tachometer reading??

[rcturner]

This is what wet clutches do. The longer they set without being used, the harder they tend to hit when they are first put into gear. I let mine (and all of my previous bikes) roll down the driveway a bit and then put it into gear while it is moving at about 1 MPH. This reduces the clunk dramatically.

[3 Wheel Addict]

What's your tachometer reading??

Somewhere between 1500 and 2000.